Subsoiler or Middlebuster info

[Bowhunter]

Thinking about buying a subsoiler or middle buster, maybe even the KK combo. In noncompacted soil that is not heavy clay, will a subsoiler need weight to get to max depth or will it draw itself downward? I'm looking to break up ground that has not been worked in close to 20 years, breaking up roots and such. Also, how many hp and how much tractor weight does it take to effectively use a subsoiler?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I have the combo unit, but have never used the middle buster. The sub-soiler will draw itself down into the ground. I've used it on hard pure clay and on clay/soil mixed parts of my property. The first time I used it I had the top link set to short and the sub-soiler kept pulling with too much downward pressure and literly stopped the tractor as it was trying to pull it into the gound. I've used it successfully with mid-weight 24hp New Holland. I would think a lighter tractor/lower hp tractor could use it without much trouble at all. The key would be getting the adjustment of the top link correct so you don't have so much down pressure that it stops the machine. Once I figured that out it worked great.

 

[Freds]

I have a KK subsoiler and it drew itself down into my VERY compacted gravel drive. I've read where others said it just bounced along the top of their soil.
My L3130 didn't even know it was back there and I had modified the subsoiler to make it a little wider and was dragging a plastic gasline underground with it.

 

[timb]

Here's a link to one of many sites out there that cover hp needs for tillage implements. Like most, this one is more oriented towards larger tractors and heavier equipment but at least some of the math should still apply to our smaller stuff.

Tillage HP Needs

Basically it reads that you'll need at least 15-20 drawbar hp per subsoiler shank on a vee-type cutting a foot deep or less, a true parabolic cutting deeper may take 40 drawbar hp or more per shank.

Unfortunately, no one publishes drawbar hp on the compacts, but if you've got 30 engine hp or more, you should be fine with a single shank. Lot's of folks here have used them with medium and larger compacts. Anything smaller/lighter may get a little iffy. Not having heavy clay should help some I would think.

 

[theboman]

I think your tractor would pull a subsoiler thru a parking lot.

My B7500 will handle a tater plow pretty well but they'll go deep enough to stop the little tractor.

 

[Dachshund]

I've got both, but don't use the middle buster very often. I pull the subsoiler through clay, loam, and good old black dirt (got it all around here). My '49 8N doesn't even know it's back there in any of 'em. It will suck down, but haven;t had it stop the tractor yet. I, also, have modified mine to dig deeper and wider so I can lay elecrical lines and such.

 

[PBinWA]

I attacked an acre or so of old pasture with my Howse MiddleBuster and it worked like a charm. It had a tendency to want to go lower than I needed. I have a Mahindra 2615.

I was able to use it at a fast pace and it really worked well. I think I've only had it slow me down when it sank like an anchor but as long as I keep the height to the right level then it was great.

 

[Bowhunter]

Thanks for the info everyone.

The number on my tractor may be misleading Bo. It's an older model that is about the same physical size as the B2910, but with 22 hp.

 

[Glenn9643]

As Bob said, top link setting will help to adjust depth, and they will pull themselves into the ground. Speaking of breaking up roots and such, has the area been recently cleared of trees or heavy brush? You might find yourself hanging on some large roots.
It’s my understanding that the purpose of subsoiling is to shatter the hardpan that’s developed beneath your topsoil and you generally want/need to get at least 20” deep to be effective. Also my take on it is that you need to do it when the hardpan is dry but the topsoil isn’t too dry.
The power and tractor weight required will depend on how deep you’re trying to go, the design of your subsoiler, and the type of ground as well as the moisture content of the ground.
Last year I subsoiled about 15 acres of our flat Louisiana heavy ground and made the mistake of doing it during our dryest time of the year. The result was large clods of dirt rolling up, some 20” or so across, that were almost as hard as sedimentary rock. My 1455v with a bucket of dirt was loaded up pulling it under these conditions. Under ideal moisture conditions the hardpan should shatter, but the topsoil layer would have enough moisture to hold it underneath and not shatter along with it resulting in a slight raising of the earth behind the subsoiler similar to a mole’s tunnel but larger.
The only way I could smooth my field back out was to run a tiller through those clods, so now I can bush-hog at a reasonable speed without too much jarring.

 

[Bowhunter]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Speaking of breaking up roots and such, has the area been recently cleared of trees or heavy brush? You might find yourself hanging on some large roots. )</font>

I haven't cleared it yet. My plans are to clear a couple of acres over the next couple of years for new food plots. There are some scattered smallish trees but mostly tall weeds and multiflora rose bushes. I fully expect with my small tractor that there will times I'll get stopped in my tracks, but that's just part of it.