I'm looking for a Hvy duty 3pt Class II subsoiler

[stevenf]

Has anyone in the US seen or know where I can get a well made subsoiler I'd like it to be CatII and heavy enough to not have to worry about trenching through some pretty rocky ground and pulling water pipe and conduit behind a 90HP 4wd tractor. It wouldn't hurt my feelings if I found one like a plow type 3pt with more than one shank so I could use it to break up my fields before disking but I'd like to keep it cheap so probably one of those triangle type 3pt hookups with a single heavy shank good to go down about 18" or so just made heavy enough to not fold up the first good size rock it hits.
Steve

[Theowegian]

This looks like one that might work for you. It has a shear bolt feature.

I know you said you wanted Cat II, but this is a heavy duty Cat I...

Freedom Site Preparation Tools

I know this picture is not that great, but I saw one of these at a farm show and it was the biggest one I had ever seen.

I'll try and post a better photo tomorrow when Ive got access to a scanner.

dwight

[stevenf]

dwight, any idea what the price of it is, your right it looks like it'd do the job.
Steve

[beenthere]

I have one (not for sale) that was converted from Cat II to the pins for Cat I. I don't think it is a commercial one, however.

The beam is square 5" tube and the shank is 1" steel. It is tricky to use as a true 3pt attachment.

If the point is adjusted to engage and penetrate the ground (no down pressure) so it will pull itself deep, then the top link needs to be shortened as the tooth goes deeper. Otherwise, the tooth will soon reach an angle that it planes off and won't point down anymore. It's just the mechanical connection.

I converted mine (removed the top link) and added a heavy chain between the tractor drawbar and the shank, that I can adjust to control the depth. The longer the chain, the deeper it will go. However, when adjusted to go deep (long chain), it is difficult to get the point to enter the ground, as it is almost pointing straight down to begin with. So I usually make two or three passes, each with a different chain length, to get the tooth to penetrate all the way. It's just not as easy as it seems it should be.

[stevenf]

beenthere, I've got a hydraulic top link so I could adjust it on the fly hopefully.
Steve

[beenthere]

Steve
I think that hyd top link would work very well, albeit is in compression when the tooth is engaged in the ground.

I have seen it where the tooth wants to flop over sideways, because of this top compression load. Depth wheels on each side might help that, but is another reason I have the chain connected, as then it pulls straight.
If the point engages the ground cleanly, it seems to pull pretty straight away. If it hits a rock, it sometimes wants to flop to the side when the tooth goes around the rock. The hyd top link might absorb (relieve) some of that load and act like a 'trip' to react to the rock and not shear the shear bolts.

[DocHeb]

I've always thought the Monroe Tufline products seemed to be heavy-duty, even though the web site calls them "subspoilers" [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] I had priced out the largest single unit at $475 a couple years ago.

[sweettractors]

I just got in a nice used 1S-28 Tufline Subsoiler for $395. It is cat 2 and shearpin breakaway protected.--email: sweet@scrtc.com -Ken Sweet

[beenthere]

That looks real close to what I have (and to me, looks can be deceiving, but it looks like Cat I pins in this one).

The picture shows what I was trying to point out, that the tooth angle to the ground would not stay at the angle it is shown, unless the top link was shortened as the engaged depth increased.

[stevenf]

I had read other threads on subsoilers and a member (63DH8) had posted a picture of one that looked pretty substancial. I PM'd him and have gotten no response I guess possibly he doesn't frequent the site very often as his last post was 3-25-05 and it was about subsoilers where he linked to a previous post in a different thread with the picture.
Steve