Tiller First Take on New KK tiller

   / First Take on New KK tiller #1  

Alan L.

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
3,227
Location
Grayson County, TX
Tractor
Kubota B2710
I posted last night my experience with unloading the tiller. Today I got to try it out.

First, let me comment on the appearance of the tiller. Very heavy and seems very well made. Paint job is horrible. Looks like some beige paint was sprayed on it with no primer or anything. Nearly transparent in places, dripping in other places. Weld spatters and imperfections just painted over. Everything was painted - the gearbox spline (I had to scrape it off to put the shaft on there), bolt threads, even the grease zirk on the end of the tiller shaft was painted over. The bad paint was further damaged by all the chains the Tractor Supply store drug across it every day to keep people from stealing them (good luck stealing this 690 pound baby).

When you buy something at Tractor Supply you'd better know something about it, because they sure don't. I made the decision to get the KK 60" and called ahead, they said they had one in stock. It was stting on the pavement on the parking lot. After they loaded it into the back of my truck, the guy says he needs to sign my receipt and says he's had a long day and he going to the house.

"I will need a PTO shaft, some gear oil and an owners manual" I said. Oh, I'll be back. He leaves and goes to the back part of the store out back and finally comes back with a 2.5 gallon jug of grease (they had already told me inside that came with the tiller) and a PTO shaft. Well I could tell right quick this was not the shaft for my tiller. No slip clutch. And the dead giveaway was the words "spreader" writtin on the shaft.

"No, this is the wrong shaft I said. The shaft with this tiller has a slip clutch" Honestly , the guy said that he had never seen a slip clutch. He then said thats the best he could do, that didn't know anything about a slip clutch. I then mentioned the prospect that he get the fork lift back over here and remove the tiller and I would go to another Tractor Supply and get a COMPLETE tiller. At this point he invited ME to go in the back with him and identify what I needed. So we went back there and I found they had 2 new 60" tillers in crates, with PTO shafts included (with slip clutch). Inside the back of the store were shelves of various PTO shafts.'

About that time, a lady came back, one who seemed to know more about it. She found the two ends of a shaft in two different places. I was not comfortable with this, so I mentione robbing the intact shaft from one of the tillers in the crates, since obviously the one from mine had be robbed. So I got my shaft.

Lastly, I asked about the manual and we finally discovered it attached to the front side of the back gate of the tiller.

Wow, this is getting long. I found the manual to be almost useless. One of the instructions was to fill the gearbox "half way". How can you tell when its "half" full? Fortunately the fill hole is on the top, so I stuck a carpenters pencil down the hole as far as it would go, and held my finger at the point where it stuck out of the hole. Then I marked about halfway from there to the bottom of the pencil and filled it to there, using it as a dipstick.

There is a grease zirk on the end of the tine shaft away from the gear drive. The instructions were to "grease it". How much? I pumped it full until there was a hissing noise, took the gun off and not only did grease come pumping back out the zirk, but out of the gasket itself. I guess I ruined that although no more came out once the pressure was decreased.

I cut an inch of each end of the PTO shaft just to be able to get it on there, probably needs more cut off. But since I was using a hacksaw it was ALOT of work. I want do anymore cutting til I get a cutting wheel for my angle grinder.

Finally got to try it out. The first thing I noticed is MAN, do those tines turn at a high RPM! I can tell this tiller is lot for my tractor to handle. I hope I made the right choice. In places it bogged my RPMs from 2600 down to 2000 so I had to slow way down. I was using the depth as set and it looks like mayby halfway, so not real deep, maybe 4". I raised it up just a little with the lift (didn't set the tiller) and found I could move fast then.

It works great, I'm just a little concerned that my tractor will be overworked, or that I will have to go much slower to the point I could have gotten more tilled faster with a smaller tiller. But I only have 10 minutes of tilling, so thats not a very good test.....

Hopefully this will help others considering this tiller. I think the quality is mechanics, and corners are cut on the fit and finish to keep the price low. I paid $1154.98 which I think is a good deal. Of couse I could have had the same tiller for $999 a year ago.
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #2  
I was hooking up a new KK tiller today, too. Mine's a 72 inch. I agree that the manual isn't much, other than pages and pages of repetitive warnings. You would think that they would give you some idea how much gear oil to put in the two gearboxes. I did the same with the top one--found something to use as a dipstick. When I bought mine, they didn't give me the gear oil, but sold me two quarts of some oil that didn't match what the manual said you should use. I bought four quarts of the recommended kind somewhere else. It ended up taking three quarts for the two gear boxes. I also had the same confusion about how much to grease the end hub. I pumped in quite a bit but not so it came out of the gasket--hope I put in enough. The manual also said to grease a zirk on the universal joints of the PTO shaft, but I didnt find any zirks where the manual showed them, or anywhere else. I had to cut my shafts a couple of inches. I didn't get a chance to try it out as I had to come in to watch the Illini game, but plan to try it out tomorrow. This is my first PTO equipment. Mine cost $1389, including tax, but after a 10% discount for being a farm bureau member.
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #3  
Alan,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Paint job is horrible )</font>

If the paint is all over the place it maybe a pain but after a while using the tiller, a lot of paint will probably be gone anyways. I looked under my tiller and there's a fair amount of red paint that is now gone. I caught a few rocks at different time between the tines and the top of the tiller which caused the paint to chip even on top because the metal was deformed a little.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How can you tell when its "half" full? )</font>

Both of the gear box on my tiller and snow blower have a plug in the middle. I fill the gear box until a little bit of oil comes out of that plug.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The instructions were to "grease it". How much? )</font>

In my owner's manual it says to put 2 or 3 squirts of grease at most when greasing with zerks.

I also have a 60" tiller but only have 6 flanges with 4 tines each. I notice that you have 7 flanges. If you find that your tiller boggs down your tractor too much, you may want to remove some of the tines.

Hypernix
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #4  
Hello,

I'm not sure if this can help but I scaned the PTO Shaft maintenance section in my onwer's manual...

Hypernix
 

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   / First Take on New KK tiller #5  
There's also a break-in section in my manual (the manual is for a Buhler Farm King Standard Duty Tiller)

A. After operating for 1/2 hout or after completing 1/2 acre:
1. Check all nuts, bolts and other fastners. Tighten to their specified torque level.
2. Check that the blades are in good condition and bolted securely to the rotor.
3. Check the oil level in the gear box. Add as required.
4. Check that the PTO driveline shield turns freely.
5. Lubricate all grease points.

B. After opretating for 5 hours and 10 hours.
1. Repeat items 1 through 5 of section A.
2. Then go to the regular service schedule as defined in Section 5.


Section 5 Servicing Intervals

After 8 hours or daily:
1. Lubricate PTO driveline (Check above post for picture)

After 80 hours or once every season:
1. Lubricate rotor berings and chain drive (3 locations).

After 40 hours
1. Check gear box oil level
2. Add approximately 10 squirts of grease to chain case.

Anually
1. Change gear box oil. Refil with SAE 85W90 gear oil
2. Wash machine!

Hypernix
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I put exactly a quart of gear oil in the main gearbox and that brought it up halfway according to my "dipstick". I put about 2 quarts in the side gearbox, but musta put too much because I found it was running out the hole on the side. I let it run out for a couple of mintutes till it slowed down to a trickle, then put the plug in.

Funny, both fill holes have caps with some kind of vent on them. None of other my stuff has that on it.

I just checked - the main gearbox that the instructions say to fill "half-way" does not have a hole on the side for the gear oil to run out of. The manual called for 85-140 gear oil and thats what they gave me. I had about 3 quarters of 80-90, one opened only 25 % full, so I poured it out (into my used oil jug) and then poured oil out of the 2.5 gallon jug into this bottle so I could use it to squeeze the oil into the hole through the pointed lid.

This tiller has 6 tines on each flange too, so thats probably another reason it is harder to turn that some other 60" tillers. Removing a set of tines would require removing 12 bolts, holding the bolt head on one side with a wrench while turning the nut, all in a difficult position under the tiller. Probably not too easy to do very often.

This tiller is built heavy. I even noticed how heavy the PTO shaft is built. More substantial than that of any of my other implements. I've cut shafts with a hacksaw before but let me tell you this one was a Biitch! The steel is really thick.

The tines are pretty sharp. I wonder if they should be kept sharp? That will be a project - 42 tines to sharpen!
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #7  
My JD/Howard tiller is quite a load on my 1050 as well. I've found that my tiller does the best job going as slowly as possible. Since I have a gear tractor, it's low 1st at pto speed. Going so slowly makes it about my least favorite seat time besides roading but I much rather ride the tractor than dig by hand.
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #8  
wish we where closer, we might swap my new kk 48 inch tiller for yours..i have about decided using the bigger tractor is much more comfortable, and i don't have to cut the drive shaft, so i wish i had bought bigger now.
heehaw
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller #9  
Alan L sounds like a job. Got my new CCM, last week and did not have the hassle you did. I checked all the gear boxes, and they were already filled. I cut 2" out of my PTO shaft, so I know what you went thru. I used a hacksaw also. My owners manual is a little skimpy also. I had never used a tiller before, and there were no instructions or suggestions on how to use. I've had fun learning. Paint is not the most important thing, but the paint on the CCM is flawless. I got a 66", and paid a little more than you did. Yes, I know what you are going thru. I had about a half day scratching my you know what afraid to make a mistake. It will all get better. I need a little more moisture in the soil, then watch out! From everything I've read, that KK is a good machine.
 
   / First Take on New KK tiller
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I did some more tilling today and I think I will be very happy with the tiller. Actually it only bogs down every now and then - most of the time it only knocks my RPMs from 2600 to 2400-2500 or so. And does a very good tilling job.

Considering even a 48" would probably bog the tractor down on occasion, theres probably not as much difference as I thought. I haven't dropped it down as deep as it will go yet, so we'll see. This is very heavy clay I've been tilling in, but there are spots where I have some loam and the tiller goes through it with ease.
 
 
 
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