PaulB Rotary

[PaulB]

Wen - I fiddled and fiddled, and there is just no way to simultaneously have the clevis linkage work properly to allow vertical motion of the mower AND lift the rear wheel off the ground. I am utilising only the last 20% of my 3 point height, so I think the only solution is to drill the holes for the 3 point pins lower on the mower frame. As for quality of cut, I had read about having the front end lower (uses less horsepower) vs. front end higher (mulches better) and tried both. In the high grass I was cutting I can not see any difference. What I did notice is that if I cut an area and then came back and cut it again, the cut looks like I did it with a finish mower, especially with the front end LOWER than the rear, as this cut the grass down to 2 or 3 inches or so. That is not why I bought the mower, but I was just experimenting. Mine did not come with guards, but they will be easy to make. For grass, I am just going to use belt guards, not chain. One question - Do I want to set the lift arm tension (screw) adjusters so there is a little side to side play of the mower with respect to the tractor, or do I want a rigid setup with only vertical movement?

 

[JimBinMI]

PaulB,

Thanks for that great report, A+ ! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
When I get a rotary I'm sure I'm only going to get a 4' even though my rear finish mower weighs in at about 600 lbs.
I really like my tractor and don't need to push all of its limits all the time! I already use a 9 cu. ft. rear scoop when it's rated for a 6 cu. ft. because my dad found it at a yard sale for a decent price. It's a King Kutter too and so far, it works hard and is built strong! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

I haven't seen the KK rotary but I would guess it is built better than the TSC brand based on what I've seen at TSC and my KK rear scoop. Hope it gives you lots of good service!

Thanks A Lot PaulB, JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[JimBinMI]

PaulB,

On the "$519.99" issue, they don't think you're stupid, they think you're smart! $519.99 sounds less than $520!
Just like $.99 sounds less than $1.00! Big woop but it's a "Marketing Thing"! Some stores use a "7" on the end since "$1.97" sounds like less than "$1.99". My NH dealer has never pulled this stunt, his Woods 4' rotary is $595, not $594.99!

If you have any more Marketing questions I can try to answer them, this is the High School subject that I've been teaching for the last 16 years! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Though Marketing is such a vast subject (33% of all jobs are in Marketing) I WON'T know all of the answers! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[Thomas]

Re: PaulB Rotary....Jim

Have you ever notice when you enter a large chain department store who they fouce on the most?
Around this area the deparment stores market toward woman,and for us guys our goodies are in the back of the store.
Heck just notice the tv add for woman compare to men......mmmm.

Have a pleasant day.

Thomas..NH

 

[Bird]

PaulB, my manual recommends a "tight" adjustment for the mower, and even though it recommends a "loose" adjustment for some things such as a moldboard plow, disc, subsoiler, etc., I prefer just as little side to side movement as possible with everything. And yep, it does sound as if drilling a couple of holes and lowering the pins on your mower at least 2" would be a good idea.

Bird

 

[art]

You should run the mower loose on your side to side movement so it could move the mower if it might need to ie, a stump or stone you might find in your field.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

The dealer informed me that on my green 5210 with a green MX6 rotary cutter the front of the cutter should be adjusted to 1 inch higher than the rear. This will save a lot of wear and tear on the skids and is supposed to give a better cut. I would think that this applies to and type of rotary cutter.

 

[gerard]

I agree that you really don't need or want the skids dragging on the ground all the time. I used some 1/4 inch cable and a turnbuckle going from the lower pins on the cutter to a pin on the toplink mount on the tractor to serve as "check chains" this way you don't have to worry about dropping the 3 pt too low, just drop it all the way and the front won't drop any lower than you have pre set. Saves a lot of skid marks in the grass as well as gouging by the blades.

 

[W5FL]

I would set it up fairly rigid. You do not want the mower moving around when you turn.

The belt guards are inexpensive and really do work.

Many mower decks have a bracket that is suitable for drilling a lower set of holes for the 3 point pins. Hope yours is made that way. If not find a welder with a piece of 1/4 inch plate, and yours will soon be made that way! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The only thing my mower could not digest was an old automobile tire. Tore the gearbox up - even though it had a shear pin. Guess it was just the sudden stop that got it.

 

[W5FL]

I used to use check chains when I had a 3 point that would not maintain position accurately. Now I just set the stop and push the 3 point down. The mower stops everytime at 1 inch off of the ground. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif