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  1. #51

    Join Date
    May 2000
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: NH TC33 Rotary

    Thanks to all for the responses. I'll look closely at the 5' cutter to be on the safe side. I'd rather have to make a couple passes than not be able to get in-between something.

    Mike H - Did you purchase your KK @ QF&F on Airport Road in Jackson?

    What size blade should I buy for the rear of a TC33D; 60", 72" or 84"?

    I'm also looking at the Scarifier/Rake combo set-up from Land Pride (Series 25). We have heavy clay soil that I need to "de-rock", smooth out and grow a lawn on. What's a good width: 66" or 77"? - Thanks


  2. #52

    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    120
    Location
    SW MI
    Tractor
    TC33D 7308 loader 757C backhoe

    Default Re: NH TC33 Rotary

    I purchased the KK rotary cutter at the QF&F in Portage (because I work in Kzo it was convenient). If you do go with the KK, I found:
    - I had to loosen the bolt on the rear wheel so it would rotate
    - remember to grease and oil since it comes unlubricated
    - when you assemble it, you put a pretty good bend in the front to rear braces to install
    - I've got some bracket in my shop that I never figured out what it was for (so the instruction manual's pretty weak)
    - It doesn't come w/ any guards so be careful ( I got whacked in the head w/ debris just to prove this to myself!)

    I'm going to get at least a 72" rear blade before snow falls - I do want that wider than the tractor. This should work a little better than the 48" plow on my garden tractor!




  3. #53
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    962
    Location
    Coldwater, Michigan
    Tractor
    2008 Kubota BX 1850

    Default Re: NH TC33 Rotary

    The brochure I have shows that the TC33 is rated for a 60", 72" or an 84" rear blade. I use a 60" on the mighty TC18 and it works great. Some here on the board have recommended that the blade cover your tracks even when angled. I would think you would want to go at least 72" if not bigger. Have you owned a diesel before? If not, you'll be amazed with what 33 hp will do, I am amazed at my 18.5 hp! [img]/w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif[/img]

    Enjoy!

    JimBinMI

    We boys and our toys!

  4. #54
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    962
    Location
    Coldwater, Michigan
    Tractor
    2008 Kubota BX 1850

    Default Re: NH TC33 Rotary

    Mike H & other Michiganders,

    QF&F is building a new store in Battle Creek on Beckley Rd. right next door to Lowe's! Can't wait it's one of my favorite toy stores along with TSC, any hardware, any electronics, .... You know the old saying, he who dies with the most toys wins! I'm not even close, but I'm still semi-young. [img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img]

    JimBinMI

    We boys and our toys!

  5. #55
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: NH TC33 Rotary

    Sounds like a 72" or 84" blade. Any comments from anyone on the Scarifier/Rake combo set-up from Land Pride (Series 25)?

    Any thoughts on the 60" cutter vs. something wider?

    Yes, I'm a familiar w/ the diesel engine as a workhorse. Can't beat 'em. Maybe these gas prices will get this country thinking about diesel, again. Europe has been keen on diesel for years. You can't go wrong w/ anything that's a DI, intercooled Turbo Diesel, except for maybe throwing in a VGT (Variable Geometry Turbo [no wastegate]).

    Thanks for all the inputs…, . JayD



  6. #56
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Posts
    1,591
    Location
    Western Connecticut
    Tractor
    2003 Kubota L3430

    Default Re: PaulB Rotary

    PaulB,

    Did you solve you cutter height adjustment problem? I've been puzzling over how to get mine a little higher off the ground.

    Glenn


  7. #57

    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Posts
    425
    Location
    New York state
    Tractor
    Kubota B1700 HST

    Default Re: PaulB Rotary

    glennmac - I learned to live with it. On my ground I never need to lift the rear wheel off the ground, so I left it as is. To fix it I would have to drill new holes for the 3 point mounting pins lower on the mower frame. Not a big job, but one I decided to leave well enough alone. Did you fiddle with the lift arm mounting holes on the lower lift arms? I guess they put different holes because some will give more leverage/less lift, and others less leverage/more lift. Seems intuitive that the farther out you mount the lift arms (more toward the implement) the more leverage/less travel, but someone who knows for sure should confirm this before you try anything.


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