toothbar in action

[HomeBrew2]

I have become a fan of bimetal hole saws, at the advice of Madref. Great for thin stuff and awesome for plate as well. So far I've cut a 1" hole thru 1/2" plate ... like butter, on the drill press. Best thing is the holesaws don't grab the steel and throw it across the shop like twist drills can when they gouge/grab a burr.
Cheers!

 

[westbrooklawn]

A little off topic... but how thick a piece of soft steel will the uni-bit handle? I realize a bucket side isn't too awfully thick, but would you consider it "sheet metal"? I have thought about getting a set of uni-bits, but didn't know if they could handle 1/8, 3/16, 1/4" steel or not. What's the answer?

 

[zuiko]

I used a Unibit. It was the only way I could drill the holes... my cheapo twist bits would catch then break in half. Unibits are really the greatest thing.

 

[rk246]

Sorry to spread the bad news about the teeth, but that is what she told me on the phone the other day, fortunately I guess I don't have to have it right now... But I do like to get my toys or I mean tools right now when I want them....

 

[BigDogues]

It's all sheet metal up to 1/4" after that it's considered plate.
I doubt that most bucket walls are much thicker than 1/8". As long as you use some lube to aid and cool the tool you shouldn't have any trouble drilling 1/4" or even thicker. Different bits have different step heights as well. I have one 1/2" diameter bit that I think the steps are about 3/8" high. Just use a taller step with the thicker material if you can. These bits are really designed for thinner sheet metal. Their single flute design allows them to drill smoothly without catching and twisting your arm off the way a regular jobbers drill would. Two flute jobbers drills are better suited to the thicker material, but if you could imagine trying to drill a 3/4" hole through a piece of 1/4" with a pistol drill you might find that the unibits excel there as well. I know I wouldn't try that with a regular bit.