Yet Another Box Blade Question

[gordon]

Harv drop Howse an e-mail and see if the rearblade does lock in place. http://www.howseimplement.com/Contact_Us/contact_us.html

That way you won't have to wait two weeks to find out.
If it's non lockable then you could always drill a couple of holes in the box and use a couple of pins to lock in place. Just a thought. That way no welding would be required.

Gordon

 

[glennmac]

Roy,

If that is the purpose of the hinged blade, it sounds like an extremely delicate balancing act that would only work on very flat surfaces. If the ground were hilly or undulating with the box changing its relative angle to the ground surface, you would not only face the problem of the front edge digging in, but also more or less soil fed out of the hinged back.

All of this would seem to require contant looking backwards, constant adjustments of the toplink, and even adjustments to the position control/rock shaft (which is a very crude device even though it is hydraulic). As tough as a fixed boxblade seems to be to manipulate properly, it sounds as if the unlocked hinged back requires an even more more attention and a more delicate touch.

 

[gordon]

This is a repost from a previous discussion on boxblades. Dealing with a fixed rearblade.

Harv I think the boxblade is one of the hardest to learn but once you do---watch out. One thing that is key to using the box is practice, practice, practice oh yea did I metion that it takes alot of tractor hours to get the hang of the box. One thing that is key to using the box is the three point height adjustment and being able to move it ever so slightly. Another key thing is the toplink adjustment to set the angle of the box. Sounds simple right---not!

Of course soil conditions will have alot to do with the way the box is used. If you have very hard compacted dirt and want to loosen it up of course use the rippers on the box guess that goes without saying.

If you want to cut just alittle off the top its best to have the box pretty level front to back so the box doesn't dig to deep two things are key here the toplink adjustment and also the 3pt height as to how deep you want to go. Remember at times it takes what seems like a minute for the 3pt to move up or down when boxblading but the key is move it in small increments or else you will raise the box to high or be cutting to deep.

If you want to cut deeper shorten the toplink. What this does is put the front blade of the box at a steeper angle going down and depending on your box and how the rippers are set they will be also cutting before the blade allowing to go deeper as well.

If you want to level you can make the top link longer so the front blade isn't touching and your riding on the backblade you can still move dirt but if you lower your 3pt you will be dragging and slowly raise it you will put out a nice level run of dirt.

If your not good with a box and want to look like a pro invest in a hydraulic toplink---best thing since sliced bread. If you can't afford one then you'll be making alot of fine adjustments with the toplink for different operations. With the hydraulic toplink you can go from deep cutting to cutting to leveling out with the backblade with out stopping in one sweeping run just by changing the toplink and leaving the 3pt height alone.

Guess thats some of the basics the key is toplink adjustment and small adjustments on the 3pt level. Just takes time thats all. Don't worry if you can't cut a perfect line with the box it takes hours and hours to be a hot cat with a box. Some days I'm a hot cat with a box and it seems some other days I'm not even tepid!

So ya see Glenn they are user friendly more so to some people I guess.

Good luck
Gordon

 

[MarkV]

Harv,
I have the same box blade as you (Howes) and I do not think the rear blade will lock. I don't know if I am lucky or what, but I don't seem to have near the problems with a box blade everyone else has. I do everything in little bites to knock down the high points first and if the surface is to hard I run the scarifiers first. Once the soil is loose enough, I find that the hinged back blade leaves a nice smooth surface. I know all of that has been said before, so maybe I just take smaller bites.

MarkV

 

[fishman]

Harv,

Thanks to your Mom's desire to walk, lots of us wanna-be box-blade users got a free education on what kind to get and how to get started using it. Kind of funny how a little old lady in California is the impetus for a nationwide discussion on boxblade design and use./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[mlmartin]

Hmmmmm... I had been looking for a justification\\\\\\\\\\\\\reason for a hydraulic top link. That may just be it. Back dragging with the FEL lifting the front wheels off the ground on a steep slope is not my idea of a good time. How much down pressure can you get, enough to interfere with traction?

Matthew

 

[Bird]

Matthew, the hydraulic top link doesn't add down pressure to your 3-point, so the only down pressure remains the weight of the box blade. The hydraulic top link just lets you adjust the angle of the blade from the driver's seat on the fly. Of course it also makes it easier to change implements and hook them up since it seems every time I change from one implement to another, I need the change the length of the top link.

Bird

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Bird,
Speaking of hydraulic top links, and, at the risk of taking this thread way off topic (but I will,) where did you plumb in your "tank return" for your set up. I could probably dig through the archives and find the answer...but tonight...I just don't feel researchy. I'm thinking of getting the Gearmore kit for my B2910: cylinders, 3 spool valve, and optional ROPS bracket...no hoses or fittings. I would get the Kubota rear hydraulic block tap, but am unsure of the return. I could probably "tee" into the FEL return. There is also a port in the 3 pt cylinder housing at the rear of the tractor. Don't know if this is an option or not. All I can remember is that you were a little cautious about your set up at first...heat and noise. I presume you are feeling comfortable with everything by now. Grateful for any other input.

 

[Keoke]

Hi folks, on the hinged box scraper flap. I have a Woods box, hinged flap with pins. I keep the pins on all the time with one acceptation. When using the box to back fill in REVERSE I pull the pins. This allows me to shove dirt when backing up, like a dozer, but when I go forward the flap swings up and gives a fairly smooth surface. I get my smoothest surface with the flap pinned and the nose of the box up with most of the box weight on the curved section of the flap blade.
Loved Glenmac's point of view of boxed scrapers, it is more then right on. I don't think I will ever be good at using this implement.
Harv, the advice on welding a couple on pin loops to lock the flap makes good sense. If you are going to have the flap, might as well get max use out it.
You will probably need to spend less time in the city and more in the seat if you are going beat that box.

george

 

[glennmac]

Just to summarize for ourselves and our posterity, we have scraped up four uses for the hinged back blade.

1. You can extend the toplink and drive forward, the hinged blade swings backwards out of the way, allowing the front blade to cut more aggressively into the dirt.

2. You can shorten the toplink and drive backwards, the hinged blade swings forward, allowing you use the box as backwards bulldozer.

3. You can adjust the toplink so the front blade is just off the ground and drive forwards, allowing a thin layer of soil to be fed under the hinged blade.

4. You can lock the hinged blade and use the box just like a fixed blade box (except for Harv's box).

There. Now all you boxers can go forth and create mirror smooth surfaces.