Replace post driver springs?

[Dougwatts]

I bought a used Shaver HD8 post driver. So far, I've only driven one post, the one the driver is now mounted on. I was disappointed at the driver's ability to drive, but maybe the location was not typical for my place.

Now it's time to drive a lot of posts. My question - how do you know when the springs should be replaced? I've already obtained replacements so I'd have them on hand if needed during this project, and I'm thinking it might make sense to replace the springs before I start. I'd appreciate advise from you experienced drivers.

Thanks.

Doug

 

[Charolais]

Replace them when they break.

Question: Do you have one line dumpimg to tank on the hydraulics?

I've owned and used a Shaver since 91. I never replace springs until they break.

 

[Dougwatts]

Thanks for your response.

I've got two hydraulic lines. The smaller of the two has a quick connect and supplies pressure to the valve. The larger of the two is the return. It connects to the sump.

 

[Charolais]

Sounds like you have it connected correct. I've seen a couple of folks here put a remote male end on the dump line, plug in to the remote and couldn't drive a post.

Type of soil and soil condition play a big part in how fast you can drive. In perfect conditions here I can pound a 6in. dia. in 3 ft. with about 18 hits. Normal conditions it's about 30 hits and dry conditions it'a 60-80 hits. I had to place some post in an old farm road that had been there for 50 or so years. Didn't make any difference if it was wet or dry, the soil was hard and took a while to get those driven.

 

[MikePA]

I agree with Charolais, I would not replace a spring until it breaks.

How well a driver works is a function of the soil more than anything else. Afterall, you wouldn't blame the sledge hammer if you couldn't drive a post in with it, you'd say the soil is too hard and get a bigger sledge hammer. All the driver is is a big sledge hammer.