Weighting Box Blade

[bartonkj]

I have a landpride bb1554 (54"). It weighs 330lbs but seems too light since it either goes down too deep if I lower the hitch all the way or rises up if I try to keep the hitch higher for more the work I want to do (which is leveling a heavily furrowed old farm field). It seems to me if I can add some weight to it that I will be able to get a more steady and even bite without it rising up when I don't have the hitch lowered all the way. I may just be using it wrong since I don't have any experience with a box blade.

Any tips on using a box blade would be greatly appreciated.

What would be the best way to add weight? Here is the landpride picture of the box blade: http://www.landpride.com/lp/products/bb15_specs.html

 

[JerryG]

The heavier a box, the better they work. The best advise that I know is to practice, practice, practice. The box blade is one of the simplest implements, yet one of the hardest to master.

 

[dsgsr]

I have a LP BB2572 and add two 200lb each pieces of I-beam on top of the Box for wait. I'll try to attach a pic.
http://photobucket.com/albums/y254/dsgsr/?action=view&current=MyEquipment010_copy.jpg

David

 

[DK35vince]

I hang 4 JD tractor front end weights on my boxblade for weight ( I think they are around 45 lbs each).
They work well and can be lifted off and put on my rear blade for weight easily.

 

[John_Mc]

You may well want to add some weight to the box blade... but since you mentioned you are new to it, here's another piece of advice: You can control how agressively the box digs in by adjusting your toplink length. In fact, you can set your hight adjustment all the way down, and control your box blade's depth just by adjusting the toplink... shorten the link, and it tends to dig deeper, lengthen it, and it will tend to float up (since there is no down-pressure on most 3 point hitches). Note, I'm not suggesting you actually use JUST the toplink for height control, I just mention that as an illustration. In practice, a combination of toplink and height settings works best.

As someone else mentioned... PRACTICE. This is one implement that it definitely takes a while to get the hang of.

John Mc

 

[rozett]

My boxblade was made by Midwest and weighs about 550 pounds. There are two stiffeners going from the toplink connection back to the top of the box. I found a flattend rock that rests very nicely in the triangle formed by those stiffeners. I'd guess it adds another 150 pounds. Workes very nicely and the cost was negligible, since we grow rocks here in New England. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Perhaps cast some concrete weights... lots of ways to do it.. buckets.. sand forms.. wood forms.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[bartonkj]

I've thought of concrete but I'm just not sure how to affix it to the platform (or lack thereof) this box blade provides. I tried strapping a couple of concrete blocks on at one point but that failed miserably (mostly my fault for not using the right material to affix them...) and besides, they weren't enough weight anyway. I'm not exactly the most creative when it comes to kluging something together out of inexpensive stuff, so I was hoping for some creative ideas to tap into.

 

[Soundguy]

Easy.. simply cast the supporting tabs or eyelets into the concrete you pour. For example.. on your hollow cell concrete blocks.. set it on a sheet of plywood.. fill the cells with crete' and push some eyelets or tabs, etc.. hooks.. etc into the wet crete.. when it dries you will have built in 'handles' and mounting points.

Soundguy

 

[copperhead1967]

I was thinking a couple of pieces of rebar welded or bolted to the box and add a bunch of the bigger size steel weights used for weight lifting. They are easy to find used in the paper or yardsales. This would allow you to adjust the amount of weight by taking off or adding plates as needed.