Setting Rear Height on Brush Hog

[Slamfire]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Like so? )</font>

That's nice I won't take a picture of the Rube Goldberg arrangement I have. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[slowrev]

My OLD bush Hog brand "Rebel" cutter has an A-frame type of mount on the front that hooks to the 3 point on the tractor and then a chain that hooks from the top of the A-frame to the rear of the hog, allowing full upward flex when going thru dips and such, and some slack to allow for rear downward movement when going over humps. the front of the hog pivots on the lower part of the A-frame. You can still lift the hog up too, Works nice, not sure why all rotary cutters are not made this way.

As to any danger of the hog flying up and hitting me in the back the A-frame and 3 point prevent that. If it wnet vertical (not likely) it would still be 3-4 feet from my back.

As far as adjusting the rear height, if the trailing wheel is not adjustable then some modifications would be necessary to adjust the height.

Ben

btw... the drop-limit chains are still nice to use to keep the front height uniform. No worries about putting the position control in the same place each time, or having to remember where it worked best last year ?? They are cheap and easy to make. Mine were made as an experiment about 20 years ago and are ugly but work great.

 

[djradz]

Thanks for the kind comments. But I can't take all the credit. My Woods deck came with the setup originally, I just modifed it, made it more secure, easier to put on and off and more adjustable. It really does provide a fantastic cut and also makes setting the height easy and always consistent.

For those that say this is unnecessary, all I can add is that I've tried it both ways, and would never do without. Note also that the setup does not result in a completely "rigid" triangle, formed by the lower arms, chain and tractor case, as the chain connects to a point several inches below the pins on the deck. Instead of a triangle, you have more of a scissors arraingement, which allows more flexibility.

Time to get the old erector set out and fab this up, just to completely demonstrate.

 

[heehaw]

sidewinder, or whoever owns them now, sells an adapter to do the same thing, except the chain hooks on a place on the top link, so you can make changes quickly, i'll see if i can scan the pic and add it to this post..
heehaw

 

[heehaw]

i'll try this..hope it works??
heehaw

 

[heehaw]

wow, i'm impressed..but then i'm pretty easy to impress..
the toll free number is 800-343-5825, they call this a chain bridle..
heehaw

 

[thingy]

Well,I'm one of those who say it is unnessacary,,,,,your lift arms hold the front up,,if using lift arms only,,lift arms don't lower,,they just go up when 3 point is set,they don't go down unless you make them or they leak down,,,,so you got them holding the front up and then you got those check chains holding front up,,both doing the exact same thing,,,,nither one will let front of mower lower,both will let mower front raise,,can not for the life of me figure out what good those check chains are doing,, I will tell you this,,,if you like it you ought to get rid of solid top link and go with a chain instead,,,you'll really like it than,,,,thingy

 

[heehaw]

it was really handy when i was using a Ferguson TO20 tractor,
i don't have, or need it on the one i have now..maybe if a person wanted to make sure the brush hog couldn't go all the way down, even if they missed the control stopping point??
heehaw

 

[thingy]

Yeah,,,thats the only thing I could figure out that it would be good for,,,and not real sure about that,,,I mean my jinma has a little stop set screw thingy,,real simple,,,just a bracket with a little bolt that goes around that little rod on 3 point lift/lower control,,you set it at what ever spot on it that you want three point to stop lowering,,,,now if that didn't work,,or if 3 point started leaking down,,,yes,,,those chains would probably be my next move,,,but even than,,I don't think its a major job just to take that apart,,and replace the parts to make it work right again,,,,,,,,,but if your tractor works like its supposed to,,still can't figure what those check chains would do for you,,,,,,probably missing something,,[wouldn't be first time],,but at present can't figure out what it is....thingy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ......the rear of brushog comes off ground with rigid top link,,,,so maybe in the steepest part of climb,you went from carrying half of brush hog weight to all of it,,,,now that COULD make front end come up alright,, )</font>

IMHO, a tractor should be setup with sufficient front ballast to completely and safely lift their 3pt load.. especially if they need to run it in transport ( up ) mode... if lifting your bushhog of fthe ground makes your tractor front light.. you don't have sufficient ballast.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( got some hills,,,places aproaching close to 45 degrees,[no lie],,, )</font>

Your don't want alot of free movement ont he hog, where it pivots with the tractor. Your PTO driveline is actually limited to a certain degree of max angle to run at..

Soundguy