Setting Rear Height on Brush Hog

[8N_John]

I'm using a 52 8N and an old Ford 'Special' 5' Brushhog. I have 2 problems. The sides of the brushhog dig into the ground when mowing - also when I go into reverse, the rear wheel gets caught, won't turn, and digs into the ground.

I have no way to adjust the height of the rear wheel. I was thinking about adding a 1 or 2 inch collar/spacer where the wheel attaches to raise the wheel and prevent these problems. Anyone heard of such a thing or know where to buy one? Any other suggestions?

 

[Slamfire]

You can get a long pin for the bracket where the top link fastens to the tractor, and using clevises, hang a couple of chains from it. Fasten them to the arms of the three point and adjust them so the bush hog bottom floats over the ground. Constructing a simple A frame at the rear can give you a way to adjust the height of the rear wheel. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[djradz]

Like so?

 

[Jagmandave]

Good thing I didn't see this before I bought my ZTR, I might not have had the excuse to buy it then. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I had the same problem with the corners digging in on turns, I used to just raise it up a bit while I turned then let it down again when straightened out, but that was a PITA..........

 

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Like so? )</font>

DJ,

That's the nicest setup I have seen so far. That's the way I will do mine, if I may steal the design from you.

Now for an igernant question: /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The chain is on nearly a 45 Deg. angle, which puts a tremendous strain on the chain and top link bracket casting or weldment. Aren't you a little bit afraid of popping it with a large heavy cutter?

I know the check chains work, (because a lot smarter people than me say they do) but I'll be doggoned if I can visualize how. The 3 point arms limit how low the cutter can go, and allow floating upwards just like the chains. Please enlighten me!

 

[JerryG]

They are used primarily on older tractors where the three point leaks down or on tractors that don't have position control.

 

[HammerFour]

If your 3ph doesn't droop over time, you don't need the check chains.

I guess you could use them to make sure you dropped the cutter to the same height every time if you don't have position control.

For the original poster, if the sides of the cutter are digging in when you are mowing, I would say you are running it a bit to low. You might post a picture so we can see if we can offer any hints on setting the rear wheel height. Some mowers have collars that you move above or below the wheel pivot point to raise or lower the cutting height. My finish mower and a rotary cutter we used to have were that way.

 

[slowrev]

I have similiar chains on my tractor. I use them to support a 3/4 ton weight bracket so the strain is not on the lift mechanism all the time. The weight bracket stays on the tractor 90% of the time. My tractor has position control and 0 drop after 1 week with 3/4 ton hanging on it. Sometimes I forget to let it down on the chains /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif after raising it up to clear an obstacle.

and also to control create a drop limit for attachments such as a brush hog. No thinking just drop the lift lever all the way and go /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
consistent cuts too.

No problems on the housing on my old IH supporting it since 1968.
Ben

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The chain is on nearly a 45 Deg. angle, which puts a tremendous strain on the chain and top link bracket casting or weldment. Aren't you a little bit afraid of popping it with a large heavy cutter )</font>

it's not as bad as you think. These check chains are common. TSC sells them.. as do the CNH dealers. i made a set for my fords. In fact, the 9n and 2n ford had draft hyds only.. no position control. A set of these chains were almost -mandatory- in order to run a mower.

Remember.. the rear wheel is still carrying some weight.. and those cast top link connection points are strong like bull.. after all.. they are a connecting point for lifting an implement.. possibly much heavier than a mower. My lift on my 8n is rated for about 800# before the front end gets light.. that 500# mower is no problem.

Soundguy

 

[JerryG]

I had forgotten about the heavy weight with the chains. Not only are the chains good for that, but also some people that have industrial loader tractors use a solid bar in the same place instead of the chains.