3pt hitch help

[Keith_B]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now to tie woodworking and tractors together, I am planning to use my tractor FEL to lift the 80in jointer bed over the half wall to the stairs leading to my basement from the garage. Then slide the bed down a ramp. Once it is down the stairs I then need to figure out how to move it. Should be fun this weekend. I told my wife her job will be to take pictures and to keep the bed from going through the tractor radiator.

Eric )</font>

You may wanna put the joiner on a board (or boards depending on size of the base) and use little sections of pipe or broom handles as rollers to move it with.

BTW, one easy way to make adjustments when hooking up to an implement is to use the top link to draw the implement in toward the tractor, or away from the tractor. A lot of times I will back up to an implement and be able to get one of the lower arms mounted, but not have the other lower arm reach the tractor. I will go ahead and hookup the top link and use the turnbuckle on it to make the adjustment with.

In lining up my arms vertically I always drop the arms below the implement lower link pins or even with the implement's pins, as it is fairly easy to pick up an arm and slide it on an implement.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With a gear drive tractor moving the tractor from the ground is not an option like a hydrostatic drive )</font>

Eh? I can move all my tractors from the ground ( except one ) by just grabbing those big black rubber things and pushing or pulling a tad.

That goes for up to about 4000 pounds of tractor... now.. the one I can't move rom the ground is the Big Nh 7610s /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy

 

[Slamfire]

I'm assuming your ground is level enough that you dont need to set the brakes before you push that tractor around. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Keith,
Thanks for the suggetion to use rollers to move the jointer bed. What I actually did was to tie some ropes around the box and lift it with the FEL. This got it to the ramp I made to go down the stairs. The only problem with my ramp was that I had left a small lip on the top where the plywood came up the stairs and met the piece that hooked the top step so the whole thing would not slide down. I then moved the tractor over a little and tied a rope around the far end of the box so I could lift it. Once I got the end about 4ft off the ground I only needed to lift it about another foot before it would try to slide down the ramp. Everything was working fine until the nylon rope that I was using started to slide through my hands. I knew they made gloves for something, now hopefully I will be smart enough to wear them the next time I do something like this. So then I got it in the door in the basement walked up the stairs and hit my head on the FEL hanging over the stairs. More choice words said. Now I just need to find a way to get the tractor in the basement to lift the jointer bed on to the base. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eric

 

[trlong]

<font color="blue">(So then I got it in the door in the basement walked up the stairs and hit my head on the FEL hanging over the stairs.) </font>

Eric, please don't tell us that your FEL wasn't completely lowered (no pressure on the hydraulics) when you were coming up from under it and hit your head /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. If so, please add me to your will /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

Seriously though, I hope your head is o.k. and you are not relying on hydraulics to keep implements from dropping on body parts. I'd hate to hear a damage report on you on the "Safety" discussion forum.

Tom

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm assuming your ground is level enough that you dont need to set the brakes before you push that tractor around. )</font>

Florida.

I don't trust tractor brakes. They are more for show than use /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif... If I have to stop on an angle.. tractor gets shut down.. and brakes set.. and left in gear..

Soundguy

 

[trlong]

Soundguy,

Although often not absolutely necessary to have on, that's why I like to keep that RB on. Makes a really nice anchor/brake. Hard for the CUT to go very far with the RB digging in. Otherwise, with the HST, and just the "parking break" I get a really quezzy feeing getting off on much of a slope.

Tom

 

[Eric_Phillips]

The tractor was turned off with parking brake and in gear on the other side of a 4ft wall. Yes the FEL was raised. After burning my hands on the rope then fussing with the box at the bottom of the stairs I had forgotten about the FEL still hanging over the wall. My head is pretty hard so it did not due too much damage. Mostly wondered why I had a tender spot on the back of my head while watching the TDF last night, Go George!

Eric

 

[trlong]

Eric,

Glad you ended up with just a "tender spot".

Work hard, play safe (or is that Play hard, Work safe?),

Tom

 

[KubotaEd]

This time of year the lower links should drop under their own weight. In the winter when it is cold they may not until the transmission oil gets warm. There should be an adjustment somewhere below the seat area of the tractor that you can change to control how fast the links drop under load. If that adustment is set too high then the links will not drop unless there is a load. Play with that ajustment until the links will slowly drop when not under load. Don't go too far or the implement will drop too fast, and be difficult to control.

Ed