Hydraulic Toplink/Sidelink/TNT

[gmsssi]

I am contemplating the purchase of a hydraulic toplink and/or TNT and could use some help with installation questions. I have a Kioti DK45s that has 1 set of rear remotes if that matters. I pretty sure my manual can't answer all these. What do I need and what do I have? Joystick needed? Closed or Open? Power Beyond Port? Attached is the installation questions from C&C Machine.

TOP AND TILT

CUSTOM FIT QUESTIONS

1. What is the brand, model & year of tractor do you have?

2. Is your tractors hydraulic system closed center or open center?

3. OEM Top link Length-

4. How does your Side link mount on the top and the bottom?

5. What is the length of the fixed side link? (mount to mount) If top is ball mount, what is the pin
diameter? Lower mounts are usually clevis mounts.

6. Does your tractor have a front-end loader? If so does the control valve have a power beyond port on it?

7. Does your tractor have exterior rear couplers?

8. If you want to purchase a complete system, where do you want to mount the control valve? You need to
mount the control valve first to know how long you will need your hoses.

SIDELINK SPECS
5" STROKE
2" BORE
Double Piloted Check Valve included

All help is appreciated John, Jon, Mike, Bob and anyone else.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks

 

[BigAl]

Hi Greg ,
I also have a DK45 ,but not the s model . I had another set of remotes added at the rear and just run through them for control of my TNT . DKVince did a TNT installation on his DK35 and has all the hydraulic rams part numbers listed . Do a search and it will come up . That is who I copied . The controls would be a lot nicer if I had them mounted on the fender ,but it does the job as it is . Once you have TNT you will wonder how you ever lived without it !
Allen

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Greg, I am in about 250% agreement with BigAl that after you get it set up you won't understand how you got along without it! Especially the hydraulic top link portion, that is the best thing I did to a tractor!

As for some of your questions, since you have a rear remote already, you can set the CCM 4 way valve to work off the rear remote. I'm going to presume you have a lever to control that rear remote? It should be a 3 position lever, push it forward or put it the the back to get flow (depending on the direction you want the flow) and the 3rd position should be dead center (it is probably a self centering lever). If all that is in place, you can simply plumb the CCM 4 way valve with an 2 hoses that tap into the rear remote. One goes into the 4 way valve from your remote, and one comes out and goes back to the tractor remote. There would then be 4 lines that feed the hydraulics to the TNT cylinders, one in and one out for each of the 2 cylinders. I hooked mine up so that the top link cylinder has quick attach connections so I can easily pop it off when using a Post Hole Digger (big HINT there if you use a PHD).

You need to measure your top link length and side link lengths so you get the correct length cylinders. Measure center of the eye to center of the eye. Your side link probably has a ball eye on top and a clevis on the bottom (looks like an upside down "U" on the bottom), in that case measure from the center of the ball to the center of the other hole.

You will need a joystick (4 way valve), and you will need to mount it some way. I designed a simple "L" shaped mount out of square tube and mounted it to my ROPS with clamps. It allows me to adjust the position of the valve pretty easily.



Now I'm not trying to lose Mark Carter a large sale, but I think that MOST of the value of a TNT set up is really in the hydraulic top link. If you already have the remotes, and you already have a lever to control the remotes, you can simply add 1 hydraulic top cylinder (get the kind from Mark Carter with check/piloted valves) and 2 hoses to connect the cylinder to the tractor and you will have 1/2 of a TNT set up, but I think you will have 80% of its usefullness.

 

[gmsssi]

I knew you'd come through...... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif. You have everything right, one remote with 3 position rear remote lever. Looks like my only decision is whether to add the sidelink or not, hmmmmmmmm?

Thanks

 

[FL_Cracker]

I just converted all my attachments to the Freedom Hitch and one thing they suggested was a Hyd. top link. (Which they sell) I orderd it direct from Freedom Hitch because I already had a set of rear remotes. Now I just plug the top link in to the remote port and use the Kubota valve to adjust it.

Works great. I will be getting a second remote added so that I can get a tilt cylinder for my rear blades and also so I can use wood chipper without taking the top cylinder off during the process.

You will love the Top option, I know I do, and I think the tilt option will be just as nice....

P.S. One more plug for Freedom Hitch.... After you use it a while you'll wonder why the 3PH hasn't been replaced with a system like this.....

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Greg, I should point out the DOWNSIDE to running the 4 way valve through the set up you have (by the way, it is set up exactly like mine so I live with this downside too). By having a lever control the outlets on the back of your tractor, if you power the 4-way joystick off of that rear remote (1 rear remote = 2 hose connections) then you need to move 2 levers to operate your TNT set up. Not a big deal, but you should be aware of it!!! I had my dealer install mine, he and I went through the options, I could have done it either way, but opted for the "less convenient 2 lever method" simply because it allows me to remove the whole TNT set up and move it to any similar size tractor by simply undoing the quick connects (and as I tend to play with multiple tractors I considered that an advantage) and it still leaves me with functioning rear remotes. Also, it is simple to bypass the first lever out in the field with a simple bungee (I am probably going to fabricate as simple lever lock to make it even easier, but I've just not gotten to that yet). When you are out and your 3pt is set, just bungee the lever and you have full control over the joystick at all times, you release the bungee to lift the 3pt. Once you get used to it its no big deal. But like I said, there are several options here on how to do it. I chose to do it this way, you may choose one of the other alternatives.

You can do the TNT system in STAGES. Stage one = just the top link. It would require nothing more than 2 hoses and 1 cylinder. You would operate it with your current lever. Stage two [version A] = full TNT, it would require the 4 way joystick as previously outlined. --OR-- Stage two [version B] you could add a second set of remotes to your tractor and a second lever to control that second set of remotes . . . then you'd have one lever for the top link and one for the side link. This is the method FL_Cracker will be using? Stage two [version C] full TNT with it plumbed from a power beyond and no existing rear remotes, using a 4 way joystick this is probably the best way to do it in the technical sense of hydraulic operation if you only want 1 control lever to operate all functions.

I prefer the 4way joystick because it operates the implement on the rear in much the way the FEL joystick works, just move one lever in the direction you want to move around the implment, and adjusting on the fly is a piece of cake.

 

[gmsssi]

Thanks again!

 

[kully]

hi gmsssi just to add a little thought ,hydraulic top link is very good ,but think what you will be using it the most on as far as the implerment . if you used it for finish mowing as much as I do then you do not want the check valves you will want to float the top link cylinder and must have a rear remote that will let you have float position.this float will let the cylinder move in and out as the mower needs to stay level on the ground . box blade check valves are very usefull almost a most. hope this helps kully

 

[HayDR]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( add 1 hydraulic top cylinder & you will have 1/2 of a TNT set up, but I think you will have 80% of its usefullness. )</font>

Bob, I totally agree with you that the hydraulic toplink is 80% of the system's usefullness. But you know Bob some people have leather seats in their pickup trucks and they want the full monty so we try to offer it.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

<font color="green"> Bob, I totally agree with you that the hydraulic toplink is 80% of the system's usefullness. But you know Bob some people have leather seats in their pickup trucks and they want the full monty so we try to offer it </font>


Mark, I totally agree. I am one of those who will pay extra for the leather, and then pop for the genuine wooden dashboard too. That is why I have the TNT system from you. And I really wasn't trying to destroy a sale for you, but I do try to be a just a little bit objective and there are needs and wants. I want a lot. I don't know about Greg and what he needs and wants, so I tossed out an alternative. But you'll notice that I did suggest that IF he did do a partial he could always upgrade to your full system.