Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutter mounting

[CarlGrub]

I just purchased a new rotary cutter and because I did not take the advice of most of you'll I'm now having a problem mounting it, I think. The rotary cutter is a Rhino TW60 their heavier duty unit. The tractor is a Kubota L3830 w/fel, so I thought it would be fine for a 60" cutter.

The attachment question is probably best descried by the picture attached. The lower pins are apparently sized for a Cat II style 3pt, the pins are actually half 1-1/8 and 7/8 combo, pins. It seems my options are:

1. Fins a set of 7/8 pins and use a bushing so that the lower link is between the mounting brackets on the cutter?

2. Use as mounted?

3. Return cutter and get light duty cutter which comes with 7/8 pins?



Secondly what height should the rear wheel be off the ground when fully lifted, I think it's only about 8" of the ground, maybe I just need to shorten my top link?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Carl

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd go with operating it as your picture shows. If you don't experience any problems...well, no problem!

I think the cutter is designed to go with a category 1 or a category 2 3PH. That's based upon the step pin sizes (7/8th's is category 1, 1 1/8th is cat. 2) and spacing (26" for cat 1., 32" for cat. 2). Your dealer can confirm this, or it may be in your cutter manual (you have read your manual...right?)

As far as how high the tail wheel is...well, you can shorten your top link, but as long as that tail wheel is off the ground during transport....8" is plenty. BTW, unless I'm on hard pavement, I prefer to leave my cutter tail wheel on the ground and "tow" the cutter rather then transport. That's easier on the tractor.

 

[CarlGrub]

Roy, Thanks - and yes I did read the manual and it doesn't say anything about inside the yokes mounting as I have done in the picture. My spacing inside is 24" rather than what the rotary cutter manual says about spacing. You think the 24" spread will give me sufficient right to left control? The manual talks about 26 -27 in spacing for a cat 1 spacing.

I like the idea of towing the cutter rather than carrying it. Owners manual says to lift cutter on turns, is that necessary or standard practice? I assume the idea of the front edge of the cutter being up is a good idea?

Thanks, Carl

 

[RoyJackson]

My spacing inside is 24" rather than what the rotary cutter manual says about spacing. You think the 24" spread will give me sufficient right to left control? The manual talks about 26 -27 in spacing for a cat 1 spacing.

You could probably reverse the pins (putting the 7/8th's diameter section outboard) since it looks like lynch pins on both ends of the lower link pins. What does it measure from outside of the bracket to outside of the bracket?

I just read your cutter's manual (downloaded from the Servis-Rhino web site). On page 40, it discusses rigging the tractor to the 3PH. It also states you must use the correct hitch pin (the pin you rig to the tractor lower links) for the category. It sure seems like you have the category 2 pins installed. Did you get another set of pins with that cutter? If not, time to contact your dealer or Servis-Rhino.

The pdf manual may differ from your paper manual. You can download it here. It's PN 00759048C, the 7th link from the top.

The manual does specify the links should be within the bracket, not inboard or outboard. Your picture shows it rigged inboard. That would put excessive stress on the brackets and pins.

Owners manual says to lift cutter on turns, is that necessary or standard practice? I assume the idea of the front edge of the cutter being up is a good idea?

Page 59 of your manual states to slightly raise (not lift off the ground) 2" to 4". This is probably to reduce the possibility of the side skirts digging in during a turn.

I've never done this, but I normally operate back and forth, due to the slopes I'm dealing with. Your manual states not to operate in reverse, but that's more for safety then damaging the cutter. And, they're correct...if you operate in reverse, slow is the speed.


When I mentioned towing the cutter, this was with the PTO off! I do this with the front of the cutter raised 6 to 8 inches on soft ground only (meaning, not on the road). This is done so I don't have to shorten the top link for transport.

By the way, if you haven't started using that cutter yet, your manual gives pretty specific instructions on engaging the PTO. Basically, once the tractor has warmed for a few minutes, make sure your transmission in in neutral and engage at low RPM (your manual states 1000 RPM. I do it at 1200-1300). Be prepared to "blip" the throttle in case the tractor starts to stall. Use your foot throttle, if you have one. You'll hear two loud thumps...that's the blades extending. You'll feel some vibration, but stay at les then 1500 RPM for about 8-10 seconds (until the blades are fully extended. Then smoothly increase RPM to PTO speed. Then engage your transmission in low range. You defintely want to go slow until you're comfortable operating the cutter. If you hit a stump or rock, it'll make an unholy racket, but that's why you have a stump jumper (called a pan).

Make sure you wear your seatbelt! If you fall off, the tractor engine will stop, but it takes close to a minute for those heavy blades to stop. That's quite enough time to destroy your body...you wouldn't want your loved ones to find you like that.

This is no job for a child to be around! Do not take your kids for a ride on a tractor...if you love them. I just read of a guy whose son fell off the tractor while brush cutting... He had to find and pick up the pieces...pieces.

Not trying to scare you, but a cutter is probably the second most dangerous (after a chipper) piece of equipment a residential tractor ower will use.

Hope this helps you...

 

[Donnyj]

This is no job for a child to be around! Do not take your kids for a ride on a tractor...if you love them. I just read of a guy whose son fell off the tractor while brush cutting... He had to find and pick up the pieces...pieces.[/b]


Very good advice Roy. My daughters always want to go. I stand my ground and say no. I could not imagine hurting one of my kids by a accident of my own doing. Have to live with that for a lifetime.

 

[CarlGrub]

Roy thanks for research. After visiting the dealer and reading a few more posts I got out the 8 ft pry bar 2X4. According to the dealer the stepped pins were intended for Cat II in-between the saddles and Cat I outside the saddles. With the help of the 2X4 I was able to get the lowers on the outside,of the saddles, I believe the way they designed. Since I didn't like their design and would prefer between the saddles I picked up two pins and bushings this set up will let me put my lowers between the saddles instead of outside. I think the inside, as I had before is not a good connection although it may work. It seems all others attach the lowers to the outside of any saddle or brackets.

I how have a couple of readings in of the manual and just a few minutes of very slow and flat operation time, engaging the pto at 1,000 rpm hesitate the engine but it pulled right through, I didn't think about blipping the throttle, but I guess this may be necessary if is attempting to cut when started. I started the blades over turf cut grass so their wasnt' any resistance, I guess had I been in a foot or two of grass it could be a lot different.

As for children and spectators I can't agree more, watching a box scrap work is one thing but the force, power and energy of the cutter is a whole different game. They'll be indoors and I'll be off site most often when using it, with the seat belt on!

Thanks again for the tips, direction and research,, I hope I can be as helpful sometime in the future

Regards,
Carl

 

[Dutch445]

It almost looks like a quick hitch might be just what the doctor ordered!