Chipper Jinma wood chipper disk moved within cage

[fawcekj]

Al,
I found this post on another site that one guy was talking about the knuckles on the driveshaft popping out and getting damaged. He replaced the ends with socket universal joints. the second poster commented that there is a hole in the end of the driveshaft square scoket ends. See attached picture. He suggested taping the holes and puting set screws in each to keep the square shaft ends from pulling away from the gear box and the roller shaft. It made since to me that this was the real problem with the driveshaft, that was causing the knuckles to break. So I picked up two 3/16 set screws and a 3/16-24 tap from TSC and tapped the holes.
I've run about 14cu-yards with no problems with the driveshaft.
See link to TractorPoint.com
TractorPoint.com JM6 driveshaft problem
Userid: kwschumm :
"I believe the big problem is that the female square end can cock and cause the male end to round off and eventually shear. The female square end of the driveshaft has two holes in it that can be tapped for set screws. That should keep it from sliding back and cocking. It looks like it was designed for this but for some reason they didn't bother."
Hope this helps,

 

[VT_Kioti]

Kieth
Thanks for the response. I see what you are saying but I thought the holes were to allow grease to enter the end housings. I found a post where the male and female ends were not cast the same. The poster discribed grinding the long end to match the short end and that elminated the binding on my shaft. Ginding Ends to Match It is still a pain getting grease into the ends but I use a needle injector and that seems to get the grease in. If I have a problem in the future I am going to consider the 1/2" impact u-joints.

Al

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It made since to me that this was the real problem with the driveshaft, that was causing the knuckles to break. )</font>
While it may make sense I think that it's only part of the problem ... I put the set screws in mine and ended up grinding off one of the male ends that fit in the ball and socket joint (probably the one that was described as having a poor fit and binding.) I picked up the 1/2" impact u-joints to do that as a fix but have been too busy to get around to it.

 

[mark1]

Hi fawcekj ;Just a note about those set screws on the pillow blocks..They do not lock the shaft to the bearings,they lock the collar to the bearings.. @let me explain,,if you loosen the set screws the collar will turn on both the bearing and the shaft,the bearing has a hub that is concentric inside the collar When you locate the correct position that you want to maintain you turn the collar (*some have a couple extra holes that you give a GOOD SMACK with hammer and punch) or one of those funny spanner wrenches with the pin in the end!This is what locks the shaft in place to the bearing.Then you tighten the set screw or screws which locks the collar to the bearing hub. These type of pillow blocks are used the world over and if installed correctly work great. Check it out,,loosen the set screws,rotate the collar,you will see it gets loose or tighter.because of the concentric.
Hope this helps.

 

[fawcekj]

Randall,
I agree, I also made sure the ball joints were operating smooth. I still believe that if you can keep the sq. socket joints from sliping off, the ball joints won't bind and jump their circlip's. time will tell, I'll keep the impact u-joins in the repair list if /when it fails.

Mark,
Where were you 5 days ago, just kidding. The locking collar explains alot!!! Explains why one pillow block would move on the shaft and the other one would not. I'll get the loose one locked down in the morning, you may have just saved me from having to replace my blades, when they slam into the anvil again. The last time I got it shut down before they got distroyed, but might not have been so lucky next time. I hope to get a few yards chiped tomorrow.
Thanks guys,
Keith

 

[mark1]

Hi Fawcekj:
Glad my info helped..Sorry for missing your post a few days ago..I do try and monitor these post a lot but musta missed it.There is also a ton of Info about Chinese tractors and implements on the regular CTOA boards that may help
http://d832691.u37.infinology.net/ldu//index.php
Also a New York CTOA
http://nortrac.proboards26.com/index.cgi?action=login
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[botaman2]

Are the set screws inserted into stay collets,or are they inserted into the inner race of the pillow block bearing?

 

[fawcekj]

Well I tried to lock the main shaft bearings to the shaft and it does not appear that the bearings on my unit have a eccentric locking collar. The pillow block with bearing is listed as P/N GB/T7809-1995. It looks like it has a solid stanless steel race (with 2 set screws) pressed into the bearing and then that slides onto a machined ridge on the shaft or axel. I'm not sure if maybe they changed the pillow block assembly on newer units (mind has a build date stamed on it as 07/2005) If I do a web search on that P/N, I get the following chinese page info :
Standard number: GB/T 7809-1995
Chinese name: Outside rolling bearing spherical surface &#29699;&#36724;&#25215;&#24231; external dimensions
English name: Roliing bearings - Housings for insert bearing boundary dimensions
Uses the degree: eqv ISO 3228-1993
Issues the date: 1987-5-28
Revises the date: Revises the date 1995-12-14
Implementation date: 1996-8-1
Replaces the standard: GB 7809-1987
The ISO equivilent P/N ISO 3228-1993 corresponse to a standard non locking race with two grub screws (set screws) that are offset from each by 120 deg. these grub screws go straight through to the main axel shaft , not to a second bearing ring.
It looks like the planed positioning of the bearings is based on sliding the first bearing onto the shaft until it contacts a raised machined collar, on the shaft, that the bearing will not go past (closes bearing to the flywheel) The bearing closes to the pully side sits on a machine ridge or race on the shaft then there is a spacer collar or washer that slides on the shaft, then the pulley butts up to the washer and it has a tappered locking ring with three bolts that pull the pulley onto the locking ring. (pulley also has a keyway pin to keep it from rotating on the shaft).
Anyway I got it all put back together yesterday morning and went to the woods ran it for about 5 hours and it ate everthing as fast as I could feed it into it. (I need to get the wife out to help more it works faster than one person can collect and feed) ended up with about 2 cuyds of chipes, and a lot cleaner floor out in the back 5 acres. I'm really looking forward to thinning out the pines on that acreage. Planning on maintaining it as a wooded nature trail area, but want it to be healthier for the larger trees and the deer, turkeys that live back there.

Thanks to everyone for all the info, it really helps to brainstorm with others.
Keith /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif