Correct width of Box Blade ?

[Badger_Bandman]

Hi, My question is: What is the ideal width of your BB? Should it be even with the outside rear tread, or extend how many inches beyond the rear tread.

I think my JD955 can handle a 60'', or 65''.66''. What do you think?

 

[Bird]

The lighter the material you'll be working (moving) the wider blade you can pull. My personal preference is just a few inches wider than the outside of the rear tires so I can get close to obstacles when I want to. And in most cases I think ideally the blade is the same width as the bucket on the front end loader, since sometimes you use both on the same job and it's easier if they're the same width. Of course, that's just my personal opinion and preference. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Badger_Bandman]

Thank you for your reply, My main concern is, will the extra width create too much twist on the tractor 3pt when you are digging down on one side to acheive a crown on a gravel road? I'm not sure how much leverage a compact tractor can handle.

 

[wushaw]

I like a few inches wider than the rears.
My tractor width is 60" and I have a 66" BB.
Loaded rear tires will help in pulling heavy material.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm not sure how much leverage a compact tractor can handle. )</font>

I really can't say, but I had one tractor with box blade 8" longer than the tractor width; i.e., 4" on each side, and one with a box blade 6" longer than the tractor width, 3" on each side, and I just used them without worrying about it and never damaged either one even though I did occasionally dig into something like big roots that stopped the tractor's forward motion.

 

[3RRL]

Yup,
Mine's 4" per side wider than my tractor and tilted the heck out of it with no problem cutting/crowning my road. It skips over the really hard parts anyway. (Like granite rocks)
Do have to watch when cutting close to stuff..not to get it snagged on something you don't want to tear out, that is. But it's real handy for cutting in the gutters when next to an embankment that you can't drive the tractor wheels on.

 

[PILOON]

Origionally my tractor had a blade that was equal to the wheel width.
Now I grade some 4-6 gravel/dirt drives every spring as needed.
Frustration drove me to widen my blade 6" more than the tractor width.
Made the whole world of differance!

With narrow blade I would be constantly humping over the blade 'spilloff' causing the tractor to lift a bit and resulting in opposite blade corner diggin in just enough to create 'whoopie
doos'

This spring I plan to add a 'guage wheel (or wheels)' as well for the ultimate grading.

I have actually hooked the blade on a rock outcrop more than once and the tractor suffered no ill effects.
Does kinda make a funny 'sprung' sort of loud noise, but no harm to anything.
Guess they kinda make those things tough.

I pull about 60" and at times really load her up.
example spreading 2 X 10 wheel truckloads of crushed stone over a long area.
I actually actually ride up on top of the pile to pull the stone away in layered 'slices' off of the top.
And that is with only a 20hp CUT!

I'd say for grading, the widest your tractor can handle.
The worst would be the traction will slip if the 'bite' is too much, but then that is what the 3-pt lift control is for.

Note that I refer to a 'back blade' vs a 'box blade'
For me a box blade is a back blade with ripper teeth.

I would think for grading drives the 'back blade' would be of choice whilst the 'box blade' better suited for landscaping/ soil leveling as the teeth would pull roots and some stones all while doing a leveling job.

In my case I have a homemade 'root puller' aka 'ripper'.
Now that wants a lot of traction power.

My opinions, others may correct me if I'm off track.

 

[drm]

I have a TC33DA with 33 hp gross and 27 PTO hp. I believe this is similar to the JD955. I have a Woods HB60. This is a heavier standard duty (550#) box blade with a swinging tail gate (rear cutting edge). I have the Titan Multi-Trac turf tires which have exceptional traction for turf tires and the combo works real well even when breaking up/pulling hard clay. Of course use the rippers to break it up first and you can take a bigger bite. Otherwise scrape an inch or so at a time. I can pull a full box of material in low with no problems. Due to the tires and my land I do not work in soupy wet soil. A day of wind will dry up the areas I work in.

The wheel width is 59" so I just barely cover the wheels. The front bucket is 60" as is the BB but I do not see this as a concern. I would have gone with the 66" BB but the price was right on the 60". Based on my limited experience (210 hrs in last year) I would think the 66" may work depending on your tires and soil conditions.

As for the twisting, I intentionally bought a heavier BB since I have clay and weathered shale (that I have been able to break loose with the BB with some work.) Never an issue with the BB but the Woods RB72 has caught on a shale ledge and twisted substantially but bounced back. Neither the rear blade or TPH have been damaged but I am now more careful to use the BB in these areas.

Hope this helps.

…Derek

 

[Badger_Bandman]

Thank's for all the great comments! I really do enjoy reading every ones posts. With little to no experience with blades it sure is great to hear all the opinions by guys that have logged on some hours with this equipment. I thank you again.
Frank

 

[5030tinkerer]

I have seen various posts talking about box blades, back blades, and scrape blades. I know the difference in what these tools look like, but don't have an understanding of the various applications that these would be used for. Can someone fill in the newbie? I need tools to create and then maintain a new 800' drive, a ditch, and I need to level out an area for a future outbuilding as well as future landscaping jobs. What tool(s) and size of tools do I need? Like others, I tend to overbuy to avoid having to go back and buy something again. I have a Kubota GL3830 HST.