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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    110
    Location
    Clinton, New Jersey
    Tractor
    Kubota L4310 HST, GE ElekTrak, Cub Cadet 125

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    I wouldn't be in a hurry to get rid of the topsoil. Just put it in a big pile and you'll be glad you did later. Pile it up so yau can get on top of it later with you tractor. There is always a need to fill in some low spots. Maybe regrade around the house. Put up additonal buildings. Over the years you live there you'll use the topsoil for many things.
    And please get a FEL. Not just for the topsoil but for building the house. I did not have a tractor when I built so I rented equipment and paid people to do things. Just one example was getting materials off of tractor trailers. I rented a forklift to get the pallets of materials off the trucks. I could have used a FEL with fork attachments. Moving materials. Cleaning up construction debris into a dumpster. Moving concrete blocks, gravel, sand, bags of mortar. The list would go on forever.

    We bought a "kit" house and the materials showed up on several tractor trailers at the appropriate times for when we needed the materials. Everything for the shell including alot of the foundation, siding, roofing, heating, AC, plywood, studs, windows, doors, sheetrock, isulation, etc. came from one company. It was alot easier this way when you are doing alot of the work yourself. You can concentrate on building and not so much on how many 2x4s or how many feet of ductwork, etc. you need and if you get extra you have to save it, throw it out or return it. They took our hand drawn plans and supplied us with real plans and a material list of where all the materials go in the house and then inspected our progress and delivered materials accordingly.
    When I built the garage I bought materials from a local lumber yard. They used a rollback truck to drop off materials. The drivers were always in such a hurry they would slide the stuff off so fast usually the bottom pieces of plywood, studs, etc would get broken and I would have to call them to get replacements.


  2. #22
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Posts
    1,659
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area California (CA)
    Tractor
    Kubota B7500

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    The only issue with removing vs. adding more material on top is the condition of the surface. If the surface material (mainly the turf, and the soft soil therein) is soft, you want to get rid of it before you put a roadbed there. Probably don't want to go too deep, as that would just add cost for more fill (1500' is a pretty good run). When you fill in with #2, or whatever is typical in your area, you want to be sure that the road gets higher than the surrounding area to ensure good run-off.

    So you idea of tilling is OK, but you will still need to remove that stuff; just breaking it up would tend to make it worse.

    I agree with others that the box blade would probably be the best all-around tool for this. Would be the best way to remove the soft stuff & also grade the road.

    The GlueGuy

  3. #23
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Posts
    36,983
    Location
    Texas

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Dave, I usually have no problem with the pictures, but this one is a puzzle. My computer wouldn't open the picture on the other link either this afternoon, but in the original message, I got just a band across the top; got to see the top of the trees. I have no idea why.

    Bird

  4. #24
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    If I closed my eyes and was planted here… this looks like some of our property… thick nasty and tough vines…

    Dave, Very nice job on your photo site...




  5. #25
    Elite Member Gatorboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    3,099
    Location
    Bel Air, MD
    Tractor
    Kubota M8950, Bobcat 873 SSL & Kubota ZD-331

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    John,

    I am at War against the undesireables. I have spent the summer cutting the vines throughout my 30 acres of woods. My war thus far is against the <font color=green>Vines and MultiFlora Rose Bushes</font color=green>. The previous owner(s) just neglected this beautiful land.

    Thank you for the kind words on my photos.


    Regards,
    Dave "Gatorboy" Hoffmann
    Fallston, Maryland

  6. #26
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Dave,

    This morning, about 2:30am, I was restless...got out of bed and got on the computer...

    For some strange reason, I ended up at your photo site... something like 230 + pictures... as I was studying [img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img] your Rhino batwing and kubota {magnified with Opera... playing around}... my wife gets up and see's your tractor and batwing mower on the screen {really magnified} and told me I was nuts...

    I just had to explain this was important stuff... [img]/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
    [img]/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif[/img]




  7. #27

    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Posts
    3,371
    Location
    California - S.F. East Bay & Sierra foothills
    Tractor
    Kubota L2500DT Standard Transmission

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Bird -

    Sounds like there is a dirty data path between you and Dave's website server. Not much you can do about it yourself. Just hope that it's annoying other folks along the line so it will eventually get fixed.


  8. #28
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    1,001
    Location
    Vermont
    Tractor
    NH TC33D

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Dave - I agree that you want to remove topsoil before laying down your road. If you want it to last, without having to add rock on a regular basis, take the suggestion others have made about laying down the fabric before putting in the rock. Otherwise, the rock gets pounded into the dirt over time, and the dirt percolates up through the rock.

    I'm thinking a boxblade is the way to go for this. You don't need to till it first, just lower the scarifiers and make a pass to loosen things up a bit. (make sure to get a model that has the scarifiers, some of the "barnyard" boxes don't) This will be enought to let the blade dig in on your next pass... though with your horsepower, you may be able to do it in one pass. You can tilt a box blade by adjusting one of your side links. You change the top link length frequently to adjust how the blade digs in. If you are going to be using the blade a lot, hydraulic Top 'N Tilt adjustment is definitely a plus. (IMO, hydraulic scarifiers are less usefull than the TnT, but others with more experience may disagree with me on that one) For 1500', you are definitely going to wish you had a FEL to move all that topsoil any distance.

    FYI... I've been told by an excavator here in Vermont that he generally figures on $10+ per foot to put in a gravel driveway (more if there is a lot of grading work to be done). I've not verified this, but if it's accurate, that would definitely help justify a box blade and FEL.


  9. #29
    Veteran Member theboman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Posts
    1,568
    Location
    Grayson, KY
    Tractor
    Kubota B7500 HST

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Keep that top soil. It took mother nature thousands of years to make it's cheaper to buy gravel than top soil (real mother earth top soil!). It don't matter how you do it, scrape it off for future uses.

    Bluegrass, Pick It Up!

  10. #30

    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Posts
    320
    Tractor
    Kubota L3710, JD5300, AC D19, IH 806, IH 8950, Ford 8N, Farmal Super M, several others in the past.

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    I find it interesting in learning how different roads are built. Where I live, Nebr., most people either haul in dirt or move dirt adjacent to the road to raise the road and thus shallow ditches are formed next to the road. Most people scrape the adjacent dirt to raise the road. In our area, the road is typically raised above the grade to allow for water drainage and less snow accumulation. The road is packed and coarse rock (1"-2") is added and later gravel (3/8 -1/2"). By the posts most people have left, the topsoil is typically removed and the foundation added. The road therefore remains at grade level.


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