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  1. #1
    Elite Member Gatorboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    3,106
    Location
    Bel Air, MD
    Tractor
    Kubota M8950, Bobcat 873 SSL & Kubota ZD-331

    Default From Grass to Driveway

    I need to start working on my 1500' driveway. Currently it is just grass that I have been driving on. (Right side of photo)



    I have been reading many posts on box blades, rear blades, rotary tillers, discs, etc. and what I think I need to do (buy) is the following:
    <pre> ~ Rotary Tiller
    ~ Rear Blade </pre>


    I would use the rotary tiller to break up the grass/soil, and then use the rear blade to do the grading with. After I have it prepared, I can then bring in loads of rock and also use the blade to spread/smooth out the stone.

    I will have other projects to do similar work (i.e. Get my building sites prepared for future barns/sheds)

    Am I on the right track with the implements I need to buy? If, not, please offer me alternate suggestions. Yes, I know one obvious one is to hire someone else to do it -- but what fun is that?


    Regards,
    Dave "Gatorboy" Hoffmann
    Fallston, Maryland


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Posts
    199
    Location
    Hartford, South Dakota
    Tractor
    JD 1050, JD 955 MFD & Loader

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Well Dave, IMHO, I'd go for the box blade over a regular blade. I've had a regular blade and it worked good for snow and light grading. Since I bought a 5' box blade for my JD 955, I've found I can do more with it, and it has 5 adjustable teeth for ripping. I guess a lot depends on what you want to do with your drive. I'd either till it or rip it, and use the loader to haul out the material, then put crushed rock in. Either way, 1500 feet is a project. But then, thats why we own these machines!! Looks like a nice piece of property, too.

    Paul


  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    31
    Location
    West Central IL.
    Tractor
    Kubota, BX2200

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    I would not recommend tilling the ground before installing gravel. The idea behind the gravel is to have a hard compacted surface to drive on. By tilling the ground first you would double the amount of gravel required to privide a nice surface.When I built my drive, I used Roundup to kill the undergrowth, then spread the gravel on top. A box blade is easier to level with, but a blade can do the job with a little practice. Happy spreading.


    TractorTim

  4. #4
    Platinum Member Devildog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    525
    Location
    Luray, VA
    Tractor
    Kubota B2630

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Dave
    Nice scenery. And a Box blade will do more than you think. But you might as well purchase all 3[img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img]
    _____________________________________________
    Take care, Jim

    2001 B7500 HST 302 Fel R4 Tires, Befco BRB60
    Semper Fidelis

  5. #5

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Hold on gatorboy! TractorTim is right! Don't till that soil unless you want the mother of all mudholes! Dump the gravel right on top.

    Before winter, while the ground is dry or just a little wet.

    Check out these links:
    http://willow.ncfes.umn.edu/accessroads/stream.htm
    http://willow.ncfes.umn.edu/accessroads/accessroads.htm

    Neither one will come up right now so I hope one or the other works?!?

    You probably want to kill all the grass before you dump the rock with something more potent than roundup. There is a product that kills the ground for seven years. You get it from a farmer's co-op or other commercial source. I do not know the name of it though. Also try to get some kind of deal on rock because your eyes are gonna pop when you see how much it will cost for that much gravel.

    Pretty place though.


  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Posts
    3,371
    Location
    California - S.F. East Bay & Sierra foothills
    Tractor
    Kubota L2500DT Standard Transmission

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    <font color=blue>Dump the gravel right on top.</font color=blue>

    Seems to be the consensus, Dave, but first you might want to roll out some of that geo-textile road fabric, just to be sure. And hopefully you'll have a hundred feet or so left over to send to your good buddy out here in California. [img]/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif[/img]

    BTW -- from what I've read on this board, the key to a good road/driveway is drainage. Will that be an issue for you?


  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Posts
    198
    Location
    Northern Sacramento Valley, Calif.
    Tractor
    JD 300B, JD 4310

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Dave -
    You need a box scraper w/scarifiers- and ultimately a rear blade for the ditches. I would scratch the surface with the scarifiers to make a better bond, and perhaps do a little light grading. Then, I would call the nearest trucking co. that is closest to the nearest gravel plant, and have them bring x no. of loads of road base (3/4 minus, 3/4 to dust), or whatever it's called in your area, and have them spread it about an inch thick. I would avoid "rock", or any material in which the particle sizes are all about the same. The "fines" are necessary to bind the material. You can plan on repeating this in a few years. I think it is better to put a little down now, and a little later. The reason I mention closest plant is because it's the trucking that costs, not the material.

    <font color=green>stan</font color=green>

  8. #8
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Posts
    241
    Location
    Vermont
    Tractor
    sold - Kubota L2850 DT-7 4x4 Shuttle Shift

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    hmmmmmm...

    You've got lots of dump the rock/gravel on top advice... Personally, we have always removed grass/topsoil before adding road base. Otherwise, you could have problems with settling and mud...

    Just my $0.02...

    Billboe



  9. #9
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    658
    Location
    Central Wisconsin
    Tractor
    1986 Ford 1910 with 770B (FORD) loader, 4 MFWD; 1986 Bolens G214,back hoe,loader,MFWD (Iseki) 21 hp)

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    Scrape off the top soil and create berms to deflect the prevailing winds. Then plant wind breaks/sight breaks and use-up the top soil for the inevitable landscape projects as the trees take over. Remember, asphalting, say around the house after a few years, will raise the road way above the grade and that can be a problem, esp if the roadway is high all ready. I sold some of the topsoil to the dozer guy to offset his cost. Extra top soil is really handy, especially with a compact tractor/FEL around, for doing your own landscaping and saving big bucks.

    RCH

  10. #10
    Elite Member Gatorboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    3,106
    Location
    Bel Air, MD
    Tractor
    Kubota M8950, Bobcat 873 SSL & Kubota ZD-331

    Default Re: From Grass to Driveway

    RCH, and all...

    I am very much welcoming this advice. I will -- in the future-- be asphalting this puppy. Thus this is why I want to scrape it below grade and fill it in with rock for now.

    Harv, the only area that concerns me for drainage is down near the road, for that area (about 200') is wetlands, and can get pretty mucky in the early spring. Once I cross over the creek (which for now I will build a ford to cross), it is all gently uphill and dry from there.

    Also, for future use, I will need to prepare areas for my pole barn, etc. and I doubt just a box scraper will be able to cut the grass and soil away that easy.

    I should point out that I have an 89 HP kubota M8950. The attachments for those are alittle more pricey than for the compact tractors. I have a quote on a Gannon Box Blade of $2400. So buying a rear blade, box blade and tiller will be sliming down my wallet better than Jenny Craig could do.



    Regards,
    Dave "Gatorboy" Hoffmann
    Fallston, Maryland


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