Plowing 201

[Dk45_Jeff]

I have been using a single bottom solid beam plow for several years so I know the basics. But I’ve recently been given a two button trip beam plow and would like some advice. The former owner said my new toy had been sitting in the field unused for the last 20 years, and from the amount of rust I believe him. The worn aluminum label is still hanging on by one rivet, and I think it’s a Ford 316. Since it has 16” moldboards I assume by the model number it was originally three bottom plow. If this correct could I take parts from another Ford plow to make it into a 3 bottom plow again?

With a tape measure, calculator and a little trigonometry setting up the plow was fairly easy. I had cleared a 2 acre plot over the winter and I took the new ploy out to turn the soil for the first time. Amazingly every thing worked great from the start. An hour later, with about 2/3 acre plowed, the plow hung on something causing the tractor to slip for a moment. The shear bolt popped letting the lead plow rotate and clear the obstacle. But the shear bolt didn’t fail fast enough because the draw bolt (I’m not sure that the correct term: the bolt on the right side of the plow that passes the tractor’s lower right 3pt arm) was bent.

I can’t tell the grade of the remaining shear bolt through all the rust, but even if I could I can’t be sure if the grade was correct. Does anyone know what grade bolt should be used, grade 2? The current shear bolts are ¼” diameter, but the holes a 3/8”. Should I use the undersized bolt to make it easier to get the bolt through the slightly misaligned holes or play with the plow shank to get the alignment perfect for the full sized bolt? Should the plow shank be lubed to make it easier to rotate by hand, or should it be so tight that the tractor is needed to force the shank to rotate? I plan on stopping at TSC tonight and buying another draw bolt, but considering how easily this one bent should I get a specific grade, or are they all the same for CAT 1?

I had the tractor in the mid range 4th gear with the throttle at 2000 rpm to get around 3 mph ground speed. The tractor did not lug down at all and I been thinking that it might have been better to lower the throttle and use a high range gear to get the ground speed. Does that sound logical?

My tractor is only has 45 engine hp and weighs in around 3 tons as setup for plowing. I have heavy red clay soil and from what be posted on this site I had gotten the impression pulling this plow would be tough. But after using this plow I feel confident this machine can handle a 3 bottom 16” model in the same soil conditions. If you have used plows in this size range do you think I’m being too optimistic?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm not familiar with a Ford "316" plow. I'll dig through some old literarure I have, but just don't recall that one.

45 HP is a bit "light" around here to pull 3X16"'s. It takes all of 60 HP here. 45 would be about right for 2X16"'s or 2X14"'s.

Shear-bolts should let go fairly easily to be doing what they're intended to do. On most Ford plows I've been around, there's one end of the DRAWBAR that has a bolt-on pin for the end. I'm guessing that you bent one of those. No harm really. They bend easy. Replace it and go on. If the shear-bolt would have cut when it was asked, that might not have bent.

I've seen a few plows where someone would ream out the holes for the shear-bolt. That allowed them a bigger bolt. Sorta defeats the purpose.

Saftey trip (re-set) plows are the way to fly.

 

[deere755]

I know in my area 45hp would not handle 3-16s. I was wondering why you want to plow at 3 mph. I would shift to a higher gear and open the throttle.
I would not drill out the shear bolt hole and put a bigger one in. Like junk said kinda defeats the purpose.

 

[Dk45_Jeff]

Thanks for replying. I guess I wasn't clear enough in my original post. The holes for the shear bolt are currently 3/8". At some time in the past someone put 1/4" bolts in the holes. What I'm uncertain about is if they used under sized bolts to make it easier to insert if the plow shank wasn't in perfect alignment with the rest of the frame, or if the 1/4" bolts are the correct size.

Farmwithjunk,

Is that a 60hp 2wd or 4wd? Like I said the tractor wasn't heavily loaded with the engine running at 70% rated power, infact the only reason I was throttled that high was for the ground speed (I guess that answers my question on going up to high range /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif). What type of soil is predominant in your area?

deere755,

I choose 3 mph because the dirt is flipping well and at that speed I have plenty of time to raise the plow and turn at the end of the furrow without slowing. If I were working a larger field I might try for as much as 5 mph and accept the speed changing penalty or leave larger strips unplowed on either end of the furrows for wider turns and plow raising/lowering.

 

[JerryG]

Jeff,
I would grease it up good and get a grade 2 bolt of the size that fits the hole. If the bolt is smaller than the hole, it will bend instead of shearing part of the time. If it is sized to fit the hole, it will shear, as it is suppose to.

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jeff,
I would grease it up good and get a grade 2 bolt of the size that fits the hole. If the bolt is smaller than the hole, it will bend instead of shearing part of the time. If it is sized to fit the hole, it will shear, as it is suppose to. )</font>

I don't know Ford plows exactly, but the above is _exactly_ what I would do. It should rotate easily, with grease, no rust.

Full throttle, top gear it runs in without lugging down is your most effiecent plowing. However getting over 4.5 mph gets to be a hang-on ride, & will wear the bottoms out faster.

In my clay soils, dad pulled a 3-16 with a 55 hp tractor. 45hp worked sometimes, but not regularly. Every year is different, I could stand up the front end of a 85hp tractor with a 4-16 some years....

--->Paul

 

[Dk45_Jeff]

Thanks, I suspected full sized grade 2 bolts was the correct choice. I'll also work on getting the shanks to rotate freely, probably have to completely disassemble it this summer and clean it up.

Paul,

Were those 2wd or 4wd tractors? All the plow size guidelines I've found originated before 4wd was a common feature.

 

[rambler]

I've only the past 2+ years owned a 4wd tractor, the big compact 1720. The other 6 tractors, I own, 5 of which I have used for plowing at one time or another, are 2wd.

On those tractors & setups, 4wd would not make much diff. There is plenty of traction with trailer or semi-mount plows, many times it is hard to steer because the front end is so light..... All power & traction gets put on the rear axle anyhow. Couple do have front weight boxes, with rocks in them. The limit to plowing is not traction (most of the time) but raw power. So 4wd really wouldn't help - in most situations.

Things can be different with a small, light tractor & certain plows tho I'm sure.

--->Paul