Core aerator technique

   / Core aerator technique #1  

cp1969

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2001
Messages
1,772
Location
Kansas
Tractor
Kubota L3000DT
It's aerating time again.

Finally got the right conditions to aerate. I bought an aerator last fall and the grass went dormant before I could use it.

It rained Thursday, and I thought Saturday would be OK because I didn't want to take off work Friday to aerate. Saturday came and the ground had become too dry. The sun was out and wind blowing on Friday and dried the ground very quickly, as we've had an extremely dry winter. But I was determined, so I did the ground in the east-west direction anyway, even though I was only getting plugs about 10% of the time. I probably ended up compacting the ground instead of loosening it.

It rained again last night, so I was out early doing the north-south direction. Quite a difference. Probably 75% plugs this time (yard looks like it's covered with Chihuahua cigars).

Moral of the story is core aerators (at least mine) work best when there is a LOT of moisture in the ground. There is another variable that makes considerable difference, too--tractor speed. I noticed that it seems the slower you go, the better results you get--more penetration, more plugs at slow speed. It is as if the aerator skims the surface if you go too fast. I experminted with speed from idling in 5th to 1500rpm in 7th gear (Kubota L3000). Of course, you have to trade off--I didn't have all day to do this, so I settled on 1200 rpm in 6th gear for these moisture conditions.

Also, clean the spoons IMMEDIATELY after using. If you let the dirt dry out in the spoons, it is a PITA job to clean them out prior to using again. It's a five minute job when the plugs are soft, and I am not at all sure it will unplug itself if you don't clean them.
 
   / Core aerator technique #2  
I usually don't do it in the spring. I have been told that it does more damage than good on spring growing grass roots. However I have some bare spots where I didn't get a stand after round up, plugging and overseeding last fall. Seems like you can tell where each plugger went in the ground otherwise cause that's where I have new grass. We got a little rain last night and today, so I might hit those bare spots and throw out some seed. Will have to keep it watered.
 
   / Core aerator technique #3  
Were you using the aerator with weight or without? And what brand of aerator do you have?
 
   / Core aerator technique #4  
I used a core aerator for the first time this spring. I lost a couple of tines as the bolts came loose, so its a good idea to check them prior to aeratoring. I found that if I the ground was too soft I created ruts in the lawn. So you have too balance between that and the need to let the tines really dig in. Thats a good point about root damage I hadnt thought about that.
 
   / Core aerator technique #5  
While out for lunch, I drove past a local golf course. They were aerifying (Bentgrass) greens today. (FWIW)
 
   / Core aerator technique
  • Thread Starter
#6  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Were you using the aerator with weight or without? And what brand of aerator do you have? )</font>

I was using about 300 lbs of concrete blocks. I was going to take weight off if it looked like it was going in too deep but it worked out fine. It was pulling plugs about 3" long which is supposed to be ideal.

I have the same unit as the Kioti.

With any of these aerators that depend upon the fresh-cut plug to push the previous plug out of the aerator tines, it is a crap shoot as to whether you are core aerating or just poking holes in the ground. I suppose spiking is better than nothing but it sure isn't loosening the ground.
 
 
 
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