Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    Super Member N80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,264
    Location
    SC
    Tractor
    Kubota L4400 4wd w/LA 703 FEL

    Default Hydraulic top link.

    I have a kubota L4400 (45hp). I use a boxblade and a rotary cutter (3pt hitch type) on it. I had a set of rear remotes installed by the dealer because I also have a pull type mower with a ram to adjust mow height. Well, this mower is old and needs work every time I need to use it so it mostly just sits and rusts.

    I have heard of people adding hydraulic top links to the 3pt hitch and since I have a rear remote set, this would be easy to do. It seems to me that it would make adjusting the angle of the BB very easy (and I often tilt the BB forward so that only the scarifiers engage but then have to hop down and adjust the top link to get it back level. A hydraulic link would also make mow height adjustments and angles a quick deal for the mower as well.

    Would a hydraulic top link actually work for the things I mentioned above? Is it weaker than a basic top link? In other words, will it hold up under mowing and heavy box blade work? What size should it be (diameter and length)? What else would I need besides the ram, hose and couplers?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. This is not something I need but I spent a good bit of money to have those rear remotes added on and now they aren't used for anything. If I can add a simple ram to replace the top link, I might actually get some use from the remotes. Is it worth it?


    P.S.: I can't afford, and really don't need a top 'n tilt and I don't have draft control.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    329
    Location
    Fayetteville, Georgia now should be GATC45
    Tractor
    New Holland TC-45D

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    I just purchased a hydraulic top link from Carter and Carter and I have really been pleased with it. Call Mark Carter he will set you up. Click on "Dealers" above in the banner. Then select your state he should be listed. If not try TN I know they will show up there.

  3. #3
    Super Member N80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,264
    Location
    SC
    Tractor
    Kubota L4400 4wd w/LA 703 FEL

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    I found them via a Google search. What is the box-like thing on top of the cylinder? I'm wondering why it doesn't just have the two basic hose connectors.

    I also found this place:

    http://www.bareco.com.au/files/hydraul2001/hy22.htm

    They show their Cat 1 unit without an 'anti-creep' valve. The Cat 2 units come with the anti-creep valve and have the similar box thing as the Carter and Carter units.

    So what is the anti-creep valve and is it necessary?

  4. #4
    Elite Member dfkrug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,770
    Location
    NorCal
    Tractor
    05 Kioti CK30HST w/ Prairie Dog backhoe

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    Hyd toplink is one of the must-haves for your tractor.
    Very versitile and much stronger than the cheapo
    mechanical toplink that came with your tractor.

    You can also use your box blade with a hyd toplink as
    a "poor man's hydraulic box blade". You set the rippers
    just below the bottom of the sides of the BB, and tilt
    the BB with the toplink to switch from rip to blade.

    As for the extras built in to the toplinks, those are
    check valves to keep the cylinder from leaking down.
    I do not use them because my tractors suffer from very little
    leak down.

  5. #5
    Elite Member
    Rest in Peace

    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    3,741
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Tractor
    Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( What is the box-like thing on top of the cylinder? I'm wondering why it doesn't just have the two basic hose connectors. )</font>

    That is the double pilot operated check valve. You REALLY need this to prevent drifting of the top link cylinder. In my opinion, and that of many, many others here on TBN, the check valves are a necessary requirement for top and tilt cylinders.

  6. #6
    Super Member N80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,264
    Location
    SC
    Tractor
    Kubota L4400 4wd w/LA 703 FEL

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    Thanks folks. I've sent an email to Carter &amp; Carter to see just what I'll need and how much it will cost.

  7. #7
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,813
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    I'll say "ditto" to all who suggested getting the hydraulic top link. I know you can make the manual adjustments, but once you get one, you'll wonder how you lived without it. I use mine 10 times more than I thought I would. Adjsuting your implements is a "snap". Use those rear remotes....get your money's worth.

  8. #8
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Posts
    693
    Location
    Central Mississippi, USA
    Tractor
    Case-International 385, Kubota L5450 w/LA1150A loader

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    consider where the check valve is located. Mine is located on top or bottom of the cylinder when mounted on the tractor. The weldments surrounding the top link holes on the tractor interfere with the banjo fittings on the cylinder when the hitch is moved to its extreme movements. I've already bent the fitting/bolt/port on my cylinder. If the blind end eye was rotated 90 degrees the valve would be on the side and thus less interference. Various tractors might be set up differently. I must say Mark at C&amp;C was very helpful to supply parts to repair my cylinder.

  9. #9
    Super Member Henro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    5,296
    Location
    Few miles north of Pgh, PA
    Tractor
    Kubota B2910, BX2200, Yardman 20HP pos...

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    <font color="blue"> That is the double pilot operated check valve. You REALLY need this to prevent drifting of the top link cylinder. In my opinion, and that of many, many others here on TBN, the check valves are a necessary requirement for top and tilt cylinders. </font>

    Small aplification to this point which I agree with totally...

    The pilot operated check valves don't really have to be mounted on the cylinder, they can be incorporated in the control valve and fuction equally well for holding the cylinder in position when the control valve is centered.

    One advantage of having the check valves on the cylinder is that the cylinder will hold position even if a hose were damaged or failed, while if you have check valves incorporated in your control valve (like I do) if a hose is torn off or otherwise fails, the cylinder will move.

    For my use this is not an issue, but if you were using the hydraulics to hold up a man-lift or something like that, the cylinders with the check valves mounted on them would be without question superior for that applicatioin.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,129
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Tractor
    Deere 855 (24hp/19@PTO)

    Default Re: Hydraulic top link.

    A couple years ago I literally tried for 6 months to get a toplink cylinder from Mark at CCI, no luck. He was out of stock, and wouldn't order more until the Foreign exchange rates were right. I waited because I thought the "check valve" would be cool and maybe useful. Six months was all I could take.

    Prince had the right sized cylinder and control valve for my small tractor. The cylinder was on sale, and in stock. It does not have a check valve...but to tell you the truth, I haven't missed it.

    If a boxblade or brush hog is suspended in the air, the hydraulic toplink will slowly leak down, BUT if the boxblade is engaging the ground, or the tailwheel of the cutter is on the ground (ie I'm actually working) I notice little if any drift. Though I must admit, I am almost constantly changing the length of the toplink to adjust to terrain, especially with the brush hog. Very nice!

    Bottom line: An hydraulic toplink is something you won't want to be without once you've tried it...it's great. AND A check valve would be nice, but in respectful deference to other posters, is far from necessary in my opinion.

    OkieG

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.