bushhog phd shear pins

   / bushhog phd shear pins #1  

coasterez

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Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Messages
492
Location
Sykesville, MD
Tractor
Kioti CK25, JD425 AWS
I have a bushhog 2101 post hole digger. The shear pin has me puzzled. Seemingly, there really is nothing holding the pin into place. Hence, it keeps falling out. The pin is just a soft metal rod, threaded on one end with a self-locking nut on it. I would expect there to be a head (similar to a carriage bolt) or something on the opposite end from the threads so that it will stay in place. But there is none, not even a hole for a cotter pin. Right now I'm keeping it in place with a little electrical tape wrapped around it before inserting.

Am I doing something wrong? What am I missing? Can someone tell me how it should work?

Thanks,

Tom
 
   / bushhog phd shear pins
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I have a bushhog 2101 post hole digger. The shear pin has me puzzled. Seemingly, there really is nothing holding the pin into place. Hence, it keeps falling out. The pin is just a soft metal rod, threaded on one end with a self-locking nut on it. I would expect there to be a head (similar to a carriage bolt) or something on the opposite end from the threads so that it will stay in place. But there is none, not even a hole for a cotter pin. Right now I'm keeping it in place with a little electrical tape wrapped around it before inserting.

Am I doing something wrong? What am I missing? Can someone tell me how it should work?

Thanks,

Tom
 
   / bushhog phd shear pins #3  
I hate the pin that is used on that model. The threaded part of the pin is a smaller diameter than the shaft of the pin. One side of the yoke is the larger size as well as input shaft that the yoke goes on. The pin is put through these larger holes and then the smaller threaded part goes through the smaller hole on the other side of the yoke. The shoulder between the larger shank and the threads bolts solid to the yoke when the nut goes on. It can't come out unless it is broke.
 
   / bushhog phd shear pins #4  
I hate the pin that is used on that model. The threaded part of the pin is a smaller diameter than the shaft of the pin. One side of the yoke is the larger size as well as input shaft that the yoke goes on. The pin is put through these larger holes and then the smaller threaded part goes through the smaller hole on the other side of the yoke. The shoulder between the larger shank and the threads bolts solid to the yoke when the nut goes on. It can't come out unless it is broke.
 
   / bushhog phd shear pins
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks Jerry,

I came to realize how it works from reading some other posts. And everyone complains about the proprietary nature of these shear pins. I was ignorant and ordered 4 extras from my dealer. Boy was I shocked at the cost when I got my bill - nearly $9 each. $%#!@@! Bushhog could serve their customers better by simply using the smaller diameter (lower breakout force) in a simple grade 2 bolt. Other than that, it appears to be a very good phd. Do you know if I can retrofit it with a clutch?

Any hoo. The hole seemed so tight that I was afraid to put it in threads first, fearing I would bugger the threads. But, as it turns out, that's what you have to do. I never noticed the threads to be on a smaller diameter shank. Difference must be subtle. I kept saying to myself: "I've got to be missing something quite obvious here". And, of course, I was. Duh!

Tom
 
   / bushhog phd shear pins
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks Jerry,

I came to realize how it works from reading some other posts. And everyone complains about the proprietary nature of these shear pins. I was ignorant and ordered 4 extras from my dealer. Boy was I shocked at the cost when I got my bill - nearly $9 each. $%#!@@! Bushhog could serve their customers better by simply using the smaller diameter (lower breakout force) in a simple grade 2 bolt. Other than that, it appears to be a very good phd. Do you know if I can retrofit it with a clutch?

Any hoo. The hole seemed so tight that I was afraid to put it in threads first, fearing I would bugger the threads. But, as it turns out, that's what you have to do. I never noticed the threads to be on a smaller diameter shank. Difference must be subtle. I kept saying to myself: "I've got to be missing something quite obvious here". And, of course, I was. Duh!

Tom
 
 
 
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