RonMar
Elite Member
I am not sure how they set up their blades in relation to the side rails on the Duragrader, but I built my own grader box that is similar to the one shown on their website. On mine, I placed the cutting edge of the front blade about 3/4" below the side rails and the rear blade is set flush with the side rails. It takes a little bit of trial and error to set the toplink up properly to control the cut. I found that by setting it up initially on my garage floor, I could get it pretty close to the sweet spot right from the start. Once you are in the "zone", a fairly small adjustment on my toplink has a pretty large impact on the way mine cuts. I let the impliment rest on the garage floor with the 3PH in "Float". Setting on the garage floor, the only points on the impliment that are touching are the cutting edge and the rear ends of the side rails/skids. I lengthen the toplink till it is tight and the cutting edge just starts to lift off the concrete floor. On a level surface, that will be the no-cut position. I only have to shorten the toplink a small ammount to increase the ammount of cut to it's maximum where the siderails will be sliding completely on the ground and the blade cutting in 3/4". I think that only takes about 3-4 full turns on the toplink on mine so it is pretty sensetive. If I shorten it too much, the grader will actually start to ride up on the side rails ahead of the blade which will cause the blade to cut less(but not so much on mine as I put the front blade pretty far foreward).