shear pin breakage

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The slip clutch is held on by the former shear pin. You use a strong bolt though so that it won't shear. )</font>

Yeah, that aftermarket combination is kinda the worst of both worlds. You don't know if the bolt's gonna go before the friction plates lose lock, or vice versal. The splined slip clutches are much more effective. In this case, he might be better off buying an entire new PTO shaft - already equipped with a 50hp slip clutch (I think the Branson has <41 PTOhp). The OE shaft can be kept in reserve, or used for another implement that requires less torque.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The slip clutch is held on by the former shear pin. You use a strong bolt though so that it won't shear. )</font>

Yeah, that aftermarket combination is kinda the worst of both worlds. You don't know if the bolt's gonna go before the friction plates lose lock, or vice versal. The splined slip clutches are much more effective. In this case, he might be better off buying an entire new PTO shaft - already equipped with a 50hp slip clutch (I think the Branson has <41 PTOhp). The OE shaft can be kept in reserve, or used for another implement that requires less torque.

//greg//

 

[Highbeam]

"Yeah, that aftermarket combination is kinda the worst of both worlds. You don't know if the bolt's gonna go before the friction plates lose lock, or vice versal. The splined slip clutches are much more effective."

I call BS on what you say. The original shear pin is replaced with a stronger bolt. If anything causes the stronger bolt to break then that is actually good that it broke instead of something expensive. The slip clutches need to be adjusted properly on splined or smooth shaft models. I see no negatives to this upgrade, certainly not the worst of both worlds. Am I missing something?

 

[Highbeam]

"Yeah, that aftermarket combination is kinda the worst of both worlds. You don't know if the bolt's gonna go before the friction plates lose lock, or vice versal. The splined slip clutches are much more effective."

I call BS on what you say. The original shear pin is replaced with a stronger bolt. If anything causes the stronger bolt to break then that is actually good that it broke instead of something expensive. The slip clutches need to be adjusted properly on splined or smooth shaft models. I see no negatives to this upgrade, certainly not the worst of both worlds. Am I missing something?

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Am I missing something? )</font>

Yup. BS all you want, but you're missing the weekend warriors who don't have a clue how to adjust a slip clutch to match their PTO hp, how many ft-lbs of torque it takes to slip the clutch when properly adjusted, then factoring those numbers into selecting which grade bolt to use so the clutch slips before the bolt breaks.

Your way can work, IF you have answers to all of the above. None however, are jobs for the novice. Better (for them) to determine PTO horsepower, then match it with a purpose built PTO shaft with built-in (splined) clutch. Buying new also gives the advantage of an instruction manual, so that the slip clutch can then be adjusted for the PTO hp of the tractor with which it's going to be used.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Am I missing something? )</font>

Yup. BS all you want, but you're missing the weekend warriors who don't have a clue how to adjust a slip clutch to match their PTO hp, how many ft-lbs of torque it takes to slip the clutch when properly adjusted, then factoring those numbers into selecting which grade bolt to use so the clutch slips before the bolt breaks.

Your way can work, IF you have answers to all of the above. None however, are jobs for the novice. Better (for them) to determine PTO horsepower, then match it with a purpose built PTO shaft with built-in (splined) clutch. Buying new also gives the advantage of an instruction manual, so that the slip clutch can then be adjusted for the PTO hp of the tractor with which it's going to be used.

//greg//

 

[Highbeam]

Sure, if you assume we are all idiots and can't adjust or service a slip clutch according to the instructions then yes, the slip clutch won't work as well as a fail proof shear bolt.

Doesn't the splined version of a slip clutch also require adjustment and seasonal maintenance? How can my small brain adjust one type but not the other. Maybe I am only smart enough to use a briggs lawnmower. Oh, but then I might not be smart enough to read the instructions and check the oil. Sheesh.

 

[Highbeam]

Sure, if you assume we are all idiots and can't adjust or service a slip clutch according to the instructions then yes, the slip clutch won't work as well as a fail proof shear bolt.

Doesn't the splined version of a slip clutch also require adjustment and seasonal maintenance? How can my small brain adjust one type but not the other. Maybe I am only smart enough to use a briggs lawnmower. Oh, but then I might not be smart enough to read the instructions and check the oil. Sheesh.

 

[greg_g]

Not quite sure what's got you all bent outa shape, but the idea of a smooth bore or splined slip clutch is academic anyway - since neither of us knows what kind of transmission input shaft is on Toby's rotary cutter. How bout lettin' the fella back in here for a few words of his own?

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Not quite sure what's got you all bent outa shape, but the idea of a smooth bore or splined slip clutch is academic anyway - since neither of us knows what kind of transmission input shaft is on Toby's rotary cutter. How bout lettin' the fella back in here for a few words of his own?

//greg//