tree / stump bucket questions?

[JCS_in_KY]

I saw a post last weekend where people were talking about tree / stump buckets like the one that Markham Welding makes. It got me to thinking that one might work for my needs. I need something to dig some holes approx 30" x 30" by 24" deep would that type of bucket work ok for what I want to do? I thought about getting a tooth bar for my bucket that I've got now but it's 66" and when I dig with it I end up with a hole quite a bit bigger than what I really need. If I was to get one I may use it occasionaly to do a small amount of trenching, how would it do for that? John

 

[texbaylea]

I have one and have found that it has limited usefulness on a CUT loader. It was designed to be used on a skid steer. CUTS don't have the visibility and curl strength to best use it. IMO

Vernon

 

[JCS_in_KY]

I talked to Markham about the concerns you mentioned. He said they'd sold several of the buckets to CUT owners but he hadn't heard back from any of them. I did make a cardboard template the size of the bucket dimensions and then I taped it to the bottom of my bucket to see if I'd be able to see the small bucket. Leaning over to the side a little I can see about 1 1/4" of the bucket so it should be ok but I still have concerns about having the power to curl the bucket back up.
John

 

[JCS_in_KY]

Does anyone else have experience with a bucket like this? I'd like to order one but I'm wondering how well they've worked for others on a CUT? John

 

[MrJimi]

I saw a post last weekend where people were talking about tree / stump buckets like the one that Markham Welding makes. It got me to thinking that one might work for my needs. I need something to dig some holes approx 30" x 30" by 24" deep would that type of bucket work ok for what I want to do? I thought about getting a tooth bar for my bucket that I've got now but it's 66" and when I dig with it I end up with a hole quite a bit bigger than what I really need. If I was to get one I may use it occasionaly to do a small amount of trenching, how would it do for that? John

I made mine after looking at pictures,

my center of bucket is 14 inches and front to back is 4 feet, I have played with this and its great for digging out trees or transplanting trees or just plain digging a 14 inch wide trench, I will add a piece of 6 inch channel to bucket to dig a 6 inch wide trench and that will work real good.
I hope you find what you are looking for?
One more thing, whats a CUTS?
Jim

 

[jmc]

I don't see how that bucket could be plunged very far into the ground because the angled width would wedge into the dirt. Maybe a series of shallow scoops to the full width of the hole, then another series of shallow scoops a little deeper and as wide as the first series will let you go. Still, the left and right side of the hole will be angled as well. Also, the front and back sides may be hard to keep vertical while getting the loose dirt out. God forbid having to get off the tractor and finish it with a shovel. I've been known to spend an extra ten minutes of seat time to avoid that.

A length of 12 inch wide or so channel iron with the "U" facing up and the 3 edges of the end sharpened may do as well. While you wouldn't be fighting that taper you would still have the deep loose dirt issue.

John

 

[JCS_in_KY]

MrJimi, What size tractor are you running that tractor on? What kind of breakout force do you have with your FEL? Markham says it works well with the skidsteers but my concern is that most of them seem to be up in the 3000 + lbs of breakout force and my 1525 loader on my MF 1533 is only rated at about 1950 lbs of breakout force. What kind of soil are you digging in? We are in Kentucky and unfortunately have a good bit of fairly hard clay to try to dig in. John

 

[MrJimi]

I don't see how that bucket could be plunged very far into the ground because the angled width would wedge into the dirt. Maybe a series of shallow scoops to the full width of the hole, then another series of shallow scoops a little deeper and as wide as the first series will let you go. Still, the left and right side of the hole will be angled as well. Also, the front and back sides may be hard to keep vertical while getting the loose dirt out. God forbid having to get off the tractor and finish it with a shovel. I've been known to spend an extra ten minutes of seat time to avoid that.

A length of 12 inch wide or so channel iron with the "U" facing up and the 3 edges of the end sharpened may do as well. While you wouldn't be fighting that taper you would still have the deep loose dirt issue.

John

Imagine digging a hole with a round point shovel and going around the tree a few times? Same thing except better, and we have mostly sand in Florida.
Jim

 

[JCS_in_KY]

CUT = Compact Utility Tractor.