When brush cutting, the adjustable top link tends to gradually unwind (i.e., lengthen), and therefore the angle of the brush cutter changes. I start off with the brush cutter about level, and end up with it canted up in the front. That means the rear wheel digs in when I turn quickly, and I can't raise the brush cutter over a low obstacle (like a tree stump). Annoying. It doesn't happen with my box blade, so I assume it's vibration related. It didn't happen for the first ? 300 hours of tractor use, so I also assume there's a wear factor. So, I could use a chain instead of an adjustable top link, buy a new (and presumably stiffer) adjustable link, install a hydraulic top link (I'd rather not "plumb" for new hydraulics), or just stop greasing the current link. Any other ideas? Does someone sell an adjustable top link that has a tightening sleeve to prevent unwanted turning?
Top link loosening
- Thread starter cisco
- Start date
texasjohn
Super Member
All top links I've ever had have a locking nut or collar that one can tighten down to prevent the lengthening problem you describe. If you don't have one, I'd think that you can get a big nut and use it for locking the top link length. If there is a TSC near you, go there and take a look at what I am talking about on their top links for sale.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,086
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
cisco said:
You've got things set up wrong to begin with. The cutting height should be set with the lower lift arms and the tail wheel adjustment - the toplink is strictly for lifting. It also sounds like you're missing the flexible toplink bracket on your mower. If you had one, you'd tighten up the toplink for transport only - and loosen it to give the flexible toplink bracket about 45 degrees of slack while mowing. You still can pick the mower up this way for stump/rock situations, but it will result in a rearward canting of the deck as you describe. But when you're done mowing, you tighten up the toplink, lift the deck (it will carry level now) and head back to the barn.
A chain instead of a toplink will provide some flex, but only in one direction (ever tried to push a chain?). The flexible toplink bracket given 45 degrees of slack will provide flex in both directions.
When you do need to keep a toplink from turning, there should be a threaded tab on one end of the threaded tube. Screw that tab tight up to the tube, and your "unwinding " problem should disappear. Or is that piece missing too?
//greg//
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,086
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Honestly Bob, I've never used - much less owned - a PTO driven rotary tiller. But offhand, I don't think a flexible toplink bracket would serve a purpose on any ground-engaging implement. The purpose of the FTL bracket is to permit an implement to ride the countours. The purpose of a tiller is to dig beneath them. For that, you need more positive three point control.
So my short answer is a qualified "no". Driveline slip clutch, yes - but FTL bracket, most probably no. But there may be some other reason that you're asking. Is it a problem with tiller operation?
//greg//
So my short answer is a qualified "no". Driveline slip clutch, yes - but FTL bracket, most probably no. But there may be some other reason that you're asking. Is it a problem with tiller operation?
//greg//
Cisco,
I have the same issue with the top link when using the tiller and to a smaller extent the cutter. The short answer is that you have to really put some muscle into tightening the jamb nut. It will always come loose use with hard use and you grease the top link. There are ratcheting top links available that probably are harder to unwind. I was looking at them, but just use the muscles for now.
And yes, I do have the flexible top link on the cutter but not on the tiller.
jb
I have the same issue with the top link when using the tiller and to a smaller extent the cutter. The short answer is that you have to really put some muscle into tightening the jamb nut. It will always come loose use with hard use and you grease the top link. There are ratcheting top links available that probably are harder to unwind. I was looking at them, but just use the muscles for now.
And yes, I do have the flexible top link on the cutter but not on the tiller.
jb
I've got the adjustable top link (basically, a threaded sleeve) that came with my L3410 5 years ago, and it matches the diagram in my tractor manual. Anyhow, it didn't loosen for the first 3-4 years, but it does now though only with the brush cutter. There is nothing on the link that tightens its' grip - and when I had it at the dealer for the 500 hour service, the mechanic confirmed such. So, I'll check out the TSC site (and thanks for the tip).
As to using the adjustable top link - don't understand some of the responses. Sure, it helps to clear obstacles (and I use it to raise the entire brush cutter sufficiently to get a dolly under it for storage purposes). Most of the time, however, I use it to set the angle of attack, as with an "aggressive" forward tilt on a box blade, suitable to lopping off elevations in the soil vs. a backward tilt, more suitable for smoothing. With a brush cutter, having a bit of forward tilt, or no more than a level cutter, helps to cut grass/weeds once, not multiple times such as a backward tilt would cause due to a progressively lower blade height as the cutter travels over patch. You can, of course, accomplish the same by adjusting the height of the trailing wheel to set the angle of the cutter - works, but takes more time.
And yes, I expect most know that the lifting arms set the level of the leading edge of an implement - but it's not germane to my query regarding the rangle between the leading and trailing edge of an implement.
As to using the adjustable top link - don't understand some of the responses. Sure, it helps to clear obstacles (and I use it to raise the entire brush cutter sufficiently to get a dolly under it for storage purposes). Most of the time, however, I use it to set the angle of attack, as with an "aggressive" forward tilt on a box blade, suitable to lopping off elevations in the soil vs. a backward tilt, more suitable for smoothing. With a brush cutter, having a bit of forward tilt, or no more than a level cutter, helps to cut grass/weeds once, not multiple times such as a backward tilt would cause due to a progressively lower blade height as the cutter travels over patch. You can, of course, accomplish the same by adjusting the height of the trailing wheel to set the angle of the cutter - works, but takes more time.
And yes, I expect most know that the lifting arms set the level of the leading edge of an implement - but it's not germane to my query regarding the rangle between the leading and trailing edge of an implement.
firemanpat2910
Platinum Member
On my ford top link you have to lift the handle to turn the link and when you push the handle back down a cam type lock holds the barrel from turning.as far as lock nuts wouldnt you need 1 rh thread and 1 lh thread ?
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Greg was right baout the tail wheel and the lower lift arms for setting the cutting height and rear height. The toplink should ideally be loose on a floating link during cutting.. and only stiffen up when lifting.. or if in compression.
That said.. the info the others gave you is also correct.. most toplinks I've seen either have a tension handle or a jambnut. I have 2 NH toplinks.. one ahs the lever.. the other has a locknut. TSC sells a toplik that has a small angled sheet metal tab that is threaded and serves as the locking nut.
A visit to the hardware section may get you the correct nut to jamb it up with.
Soundguy
That said.. the info the others gave you is also correct.. most toplinks I've seen either have a tension handle or a jambnut. I have 2 NH toplinks.. one ahs the lever.. the other has a locknut. TSC sells a toplik that has a small angled sheet metal tab that is threaded and serves as the locking nut.
A visit to the hardware section may get you the correct nut to jamb it up with.
Soundguy
cisco said:
Following up the TSC recommendation, I found an appropriately sized and adjustable link, and it sure does have a locking (or at least tightening) mechanism. Got it on the way.
I had previously tried, at Lowes and Ace, to find a nut that would fit the threads of my current adjustable link - nope. So, no more digging into the turf of the rear wheel on my brush cutter when I turn a tight corner (after the 15 minutes or so it takes my current link to loosen). Thanks much, and signing off.
I had previously tried, at Lowes and Ace, to find a nut that would fit the threads of my current adjustable link - nope. So, no more digging into the turf of the rear wheel on my brush cutter when I turn a tight corner (after the 15 minutes or so it takes my current link to loosen). Thanks much, and signing off.