Old moldobard plow and cultipacker

[Eric_Phillips]

I have access to an old three bottom moldboard plow and a 8-10' single row cultipacker. The plow looks like it has a disk like you would see on a disk harrow just above each moldboard. What should I be looking at to see if this plow is fuctional? I am looking to turn some of my 11 acres of old corn field into lawn and pature for some horses. The ground is black dirt, no clay. these were probably pulled behind the Ford 801 or Ford 2000 that are also sitting in the field. Will my 27hp 4-wheel drive CUT pull these?

Is the cultipacker the thing to use after plowing, disking and planting for both the lawn and pasture or should I use a lawn roller? Why does the cultipacker have ridges? If the cultipacker doesn't turn is it a helpless cause or can it be fixed with soem persuasion?

thanks,
Eric

 

[JerryG]

A three bottom would be to much for a tractor of that size. A two bottom would also be to much unless you have some very good soil. Most old bottom plows are made to where you can take a bottom off. You might do that and try the plow with two bottoms to see how it works.

 

[MarlandS]

I have access to an old three bottom moldboard plow and a 8-10' single row cultipacker. The plow looks like it has a disk like you would see on a disk harrow just above each moldboard. What should I be looking at to see if this plow is fuctional? I am looking to turn some of my 11 acres of old corn field into lawn and pature for some horses. The ground is black dirt, no clay. these were probably pulled behind the Ford 801 or Ford 2000 that are also sitting in the field. Will my 27hp 4-wheel drive CUT pull these?

The discs are rolling cutters, they should be set about an inch to the left of the moldboard (looking from the rear), the purpose is to slice the sod so it doesn't "rip" and will better bury the sod. Other than that , assuming the shares are good and the moldboards are all there, is make sure the rust is knocked off as best as you can. Whether you can pull it depends greatly on how deep you plow, the spacing on the bottoms, and your weight. I'm betting you won't be able to pull it, atleast not efficiently with the CUT without dropping atleast one bottom as suggested. Always remove the rear bottom checking to make sure the Land Slide isn't different than the others, if it is, swap it from the old rear bottom to the "new" rear bottom. If you aren't familiar with the land Slide, it's on the left side of the plow bottom toward the rear, it's purpose is to firm the soil in the furrow wall to have a "clean" furrow. I don't know if all old plows have them just check for a bolt on piece in the location described.

Is the cultipacker the thing to use after plowing, disking and planting for both the lawn and pasture or should I use a lawn roller? Why does the cultipacker have ridges? If the cultipacker doesn't turn is it a helpless cause or can it be fixed with soem persuasion?

The cultipacker is quite a versatile tool, in some regions it was pulled attached to the moldboard plow, or pulled as the next tool in the field. Some use them to bust clods after disking, sometimes multiple passes to really smooth a seedbed out. They were also used to firm soil after small seed is sewn.

The ridges on the cultipacker serve two purposes, one to bust clods , the other to firm soil, it accomplishes both due to the higher weight per inch on the ridges.
If it doesn't turn, you MIGHT be able to persuade it by doing what you can to get grease or oil to the bushings or bearings on the ends , if it's made that way or on the arbors of each "wheel" if the roll point is there. Then load it down with weight and pull it around for a while to see if might need major surgery or if it breaks loose.

 

[neverenough]

I have access to an old three bottom moldboard plow and a 8-10' single row cultipacker. The plow looks like it has a disk like you would see on a disk harrow just above each moldboard. What should I be looking at to see if this plow is fuctional? I am looking to turn some of my 11 acres of old corn field into lawn and pature for some horses. The ground is black dirt, no clay. these were probably pulled behind the Ford 801 or Ford 2000 that are also sitting in the field. Will my 27hp 4-wheel drive CUT pull these?

Is the cultipacker the thing to use after plowing, disking and planting for both the lawn and pasture or should I use a lawn roller? Why does the cultipacker have ridges? If the cultipacker doesn't turn is it a helpless cause or can it be fixed with soem persuasion?

thanks,
Eric

For "average" soils, figure about 11-12hp per bottom with the 14-16 inch plows. If you have a FEL, you might need to take it off before plowing, even if you have rear weights or fluid.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have access to an old three bottom moldboard plow and a 8-10' single row cultipacker. The plow looks like it has a disk like you would see on a disk harrow just above each moldboard. What should I be looking at to see if this plow is fuctional? I am looking to turn some of my 11 acres of old corn field into lawn and pature for some horses. The ground is black dirt, no clay. these were probably pulled behind the Ford 801 or Ford 2000 that are also sitting in the field. Will my 27hp 4-wheel drive CUT pull these?

Is the cultipacker the thing to use after plowing, disking and planting for both the lawn and pasture or should I use a lawn roller? Why does the cultipacker have ridges? If the cultipacker doesn't turn is it a helpless cause or can it be fixed with soem persuasion?

thanks,
Eric

The 801 Ford MIGHT have pulled that plow. In good ground, that isn't impossible. The 2000, well, in all likelyhood, it DIDN'T pull 3 bottoms, even in good ground. Not enough tractor except in VERY unusual circumstances.

Plows are about the most misunderstood implement there is. It's been so long since the days when plowing was commonplace, not too many folks still understand the "hows and whys" of a plow.

Those disc's are called COULTERS. They cut through any surface "trash" like corn stalks, sod, or weeds. In addition, they give a clean cut for the furrow wall so that the landslide has a straight, solid wall to ride against. The landslide keeps the plow from "walking sideways" from the pressure of the moldboard against the dirt it's turning. A plow needs to be set "just right" so it tracks straight behind the tractor. If not, it will tend to drift left or right of it's intended path. The amount of pressure the landslide has on it has a great deal to do with that.

What sort of plow is it? (pull type? 3-point hitch? Brand and/or model?)

Ground that hasn't been plowed in years will tend to work a tractor more so than soil that's been worked recently. Sod is harder than "crop land". Too dry? That'll make a tractor grunt too. Plows need to have a bit of "shine" to the bottoms to pull easy. Rust makes 'em pull like the anchor is out.

Cultipackers are all about conditioning a seedbed. They lightly tamp the soil, eliminating air pockets, breaking clods, and leaving the surface in a condition that helps to eliminate erosion (to a lesser extent). All the ones I've ever seen have very crude bearings. (Some even have oiled wooden blocks for bearings) In all likelyhood, it won't take much to get it back in fighting form. They sell for a pretty penny nowdays. (Once upon a time, they weren't even worth scrap price)

If there's any possibility, get a few pictures. That'll help eliminate all the speculation on what you've ran on to.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Thanks for all the help. The coulters will be helpful since the land has been sitting for about three years now and is getting grown over. As to make and model of the plow, unless someone can just look at it and tell there would be no way to tell, it is pretty rusty. It sounds like the cultipacker would be very helpful in getting the ground preped for both the lawn and pasture. When I get a chance to get back out there I will take some pictures and post them. I guess I will try pulling the plow. What is the worse that could happen, the tractor bogs down. Then I will just go back to the house and take one of the bottoms off if possible. People were telling me I might have a problem pulling a 6.5' disk also but my tractor bearly blinked at it. I will take a grinder to the boards to shine them up to give it a chance. Thanks for the help. If I can get them I will post the pics.

Eric

 

[CharlieTR]

Yes, JerryG is definately correct. That 3 bottom is too much. I would consider not moldboarding at all, but I am unsure about your soil conditions. I have black very compact clay and here we hardly ever turn it in deep. We only use disks and go 4 inches (and disks don't turn top soil under, just mix).
If we turn the top soil under it takes two years for top soil to be made again.

Also, hooking up the MB is an "art". There is a good PDF file somewhere on the web, by an expert. I figured it would take a novice about a day to connect it, test, adjust it just right (over & over again).

 

[hernando]

i use my cultipacker behind my disk or my tiller on a new lawn install...it really is worth having one... on some steep yards i use it after the seed and straw is in place to help keep the straw in place and help with washouts.... bruce

 

[MarlandS]

Eric, it's going to be a little more involved than just hooking up and trying to pull it. I mean sure you can see if it'll pull it but once you get it scoured and into the furrow it'll be different.

You're going to have to have your wheels spaced right first off. Easy way to check since you don't have a manual or any way to determine the plows manufacturer is make a short pass with the plow down then put your wheels in the furrow and measure the distance from the furrow wall to the tip of the first bottom. It'll get you close enough to fine tune later.

Depending on the plow (drawn, integral, semi-integral) you might have to have your lower lift links offset unless the lower pins on the plow are already offset correctly to have the plow side to side level. you don't want ridges from the dirt thrown or voids where the dirt doesn't reach the other side of the furrow.

You'll have to adjust the landing (width of cut of the first bottom) assuming your wheels won't be pefectly adjusted.

Then the depth and fore and aft leveling.

All this is important to good plowing. Add to that you probably will have to either disc or mow the field first since the old plows rolling cutters ( local name) Rolling Coulters ( from my 1450 JD plow manual) Or Coulters (from my 2700 JD plow manual) aren't the best in the world.

I plow between 500 and 600 acres a year , been plowing for 35 years and although Farmwithjunk is correct as to the reason for landslides (drafting to the left) how you can tell if your plow is close to right is how clean the furrow is ,with exceptions for certain soil conditions, if the furrow isn't clean or the land slides aren't scouring the plow is drafting to the right. Atleast it works with the college boys that I teach to run the second plow each year.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Eric, it's going to be a little more involved than just hooking up and trying to pull it. I mean sure you can see if it'll pull it but once you get it scoured and into the furrow it'll be different.

You're going to have to have your wheels spaced right first off. Easy way to check since you don't have a manual or any way to determine the plows manufacturer is make a short pass with the plow down then put your wheels in the furrow and measure the distance from the furrow wall to the tip of the first bottom. It'll get you close enough to fine tune later.

Depending on the plow (drawn, integral, semi-integral) you might have to have your lower lift links offset unless the lower pins on the plow are already offset correctly to have the plow side to side level. you don't want ridges from the dirt thrown or voids where the dirt doesn't reach the other side of the furrow.

You'll have to adjust the landing (width of cut of the first bottom) assuming your wheels won't be pefectly adjusted.

Then the depth and fore and aft leveling.

All this is important to good plowing. Add to that you probably will have to either disc or mow the field first since the old plows rolling cutters ( local name) Rolling Coulters ( from my 1450 JD plow manual) Or Coulters (from my 2700 JD plow manual) aren't the best in the world.

I plow between 500 and 600 acres a year , been plowing for 35 years and although Farmwithjunk is correct as to the reason for landslides (drafting to the left) how you can tell if your plow is close to right is how clean the furrow is ,with exceptions for certain soil conditions, if the furrow isn't clean or the land slides aren't scouring the plow is drafting to the right. Atleast it works with the college boys that I teach to run the second plow each year.

Yep! The best way to determine if a plow is set up correctly? Look at the results. A well adjusted plow will leave a "clean furrow", bury most of the trash, leave a level surface, and pull relatively effortlessly. Back in the day, a GOOD tractor saleman would know how to make his tractor seem to have more pulling power by knowing how to make a plow pull easier, rather than relying on brute strenght. (In the day when dealers actually demo-ed their equipment)

There's more to laying out a field than what meets the eye too, but that comes with experience. Not only are you trying to eliminate as many "dead furrows" and "back furrows" as possible, but you want to spend as much time with the plow in the ground as possible, and NOT running back and forth at the ends of the field with the plow raised. Then there's knowing how to plow hillsides or odd-shaped fields. Plowing is ALMOST an art.