Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[richh]

Eddie I was using a landscape rake on my drive tonight and it can't be more than 200 lb. and no way can I adj. it from the tractor. IM not a gorilla but at 6'6" and 230lb IM not to small, the long arms help but Im going to go hyd. soon. I think that some one makes a after market kit for this I just haven't found it yet. In the mean time get off and make the adj. don't kill your self.
Rich

 

[gordon]

Rich ask your dealer about the t-n-t system its a hydraulic top link and two hydraulic side links looks great asked my dealer about price but have not got an answer yet I was working 12 hr days at the end of this week + tractor work.
Gordon

 

[EddieW]

Rich, keep us posted if you find an after market setup. It doesn't seem that it would be that difficult, kind of like plumbing.

 

[_RaT_]

I always adjust my top link from the seat, for that matter, my tilt also. I simply make sure that I unload the link of any tension. By raising or lowering your 3pt lever you can easily accomplish this. Unless you have a very special and specific reasons for it, one tilt cylinder will be all you need. It not only eliminates the cost of a hydraulic cylinder but also the extra valve to control it. Typical installation is on the right side as you sit on the tractor. I have used both and find the single cylinder more then adequate. Many tractors have a 3 valve set up that allows for one top, one tilt and one remote for things like hydraulic actuated rippers. Rat...

 

[jgh]

2000-06-25
Some of the costs y'all are noting sound high. On Bush Hog and/or Landpride (possibly others), the hydraulic cylinder option for angling or height costs 200 or less for rakes, hogs, etc. No valve of course since they are designed to be controlled from a rear remote.

Jim

 

[MChalkley]

Jim - It's the valve cost and plumbing that raises the price.

Mark

 

[Bird]

The cylinders I will most likely buy were priced at about $100 for the top link and $90 for the lower link, plus putting the right kinds of ends on them, a two spool valve, a half dozen hoses, etc.

Bird

 

[jgh]

2000-06-25

Whatever the cost, hydraulic control of the top & lower link(s) sounds really useful. Could anyone send or post a picture of what this looks like? Does it require telescoping links on the tractor for the lower?

Has anyone here seen the thread on replacing the top link with chain, re rotary cutter stability? IIRC, it was labeled "my cutter is not level" or something like that. I wrote to Bush Hog and alerted them to their name being dragged around. Does using a hydraulic cylinder on top have any impact on that issue vs a solid link?

Jim

 

[jgh]

2000-06-26

When browsing the Woods www.woodsonline.com site, I noticed something called Gannon Power links:

http://www.woodsonline.com/catalog/sub2_powlink.html

There is a tractor compatibility chart there that includes many of the ones we here have.

Aren't these what we are discussing here?

Jim

 

[RobertN]

I went the Northern Hydraulic route... although I have not assembled everything yet.

I got tie-rod cylinders; they were less expensive than welded cylinders. Now I am try to figure out how to weld the ends on.

I got the three spool valve from northern. Appears to be a perfectly good valve set. BUT!!! It is huge! maybe 12"x12"!Those smaller valves that I've seen on rental tractors(gannon, ect) are much nicer, especially on a small tractor. Plan to spend more though(Tisco was $75 more).

The more I work on my little project, themore the $900 the Kubota dealer quoted starts to sound reasonable...

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif