Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[W5FL]

You should not need to replace your top link with a chain as most mowers have an upper link mechanism to provide the required amount of movement during the up and down relative motion of the tractor going over NORMAL terrain. The only affect that having a hydraulic top cylinder has on this is it makes it easy to adjust the top link to the correct length for the mower uppler link mechanism to function properly.

The top hydraulic top link looks just like the standard top link except it is a hyd cylinder with two hoses going to the external control pair of valves on the tractor.

Normally the tilt just replaces one of the 3 point lift vertical lift links. It provides a way to tilt the implement but also requires either a second set of external valves or long enough leads to use it inplace of one of the loader controls.

Telescoping links on the 3 point are only used to facilitate hooking the implement up without having to use a crowbar to horse the implement around to get the pins in. My wife seemed willing to buy any tractor that had telescoping links after she hooked up a 6 ft mower.

 

[gordon]

The good thing about a tie rod end cyl is its alot easier to pull apart for welding. So you don't melt the seals.

When piecing and parting a project in doesn't take long for the parts bill to add up. Good luck---
Gordon

 

[Bud]

Don't the tierod cylinders have cast iron ends? The piece welded to the end may break at the weld with a good jolt.
Bud

 

[Keoke]

Hey guys, consider getting a hydro control valve with a FLOAT position for the center link cyl. This is a nice feature to have when doing finish grading with your rear blade (reversed) and your box scraper.
The "float" detent could also be considered as an alternative to a chain for those flying bushogs, just kidding.

 

[W5FL]

I just ordered a hydraulic top link that should be here this week.

I can see no use to having the top link floating for use with a box blade and a lot of disadvantages. Can't see any reason for the reversed rear blade either. The 3 point arms already have a float position. This allows the entire blade to float with the terrain. A floating top link would allow the ANGLE of the box blade or rear blade to be uncontrolled and would not be helpful to me. Have you actually done this?

 

[Keoke]

Wen, the disadvantages can be removed by simply taking valve out of float. Yes, the lower arms can be set to float but in order for them to climb over anything they first must be lifted vertical in thier slots. Depending on how heavy your blade is, this may cause you to dig something out rather then float over it. Fliping your rear blade backwards allows you to float over rather then cut into whatever you are grading when going for a smooth finish. Allowing the top of bade to pivot freely (chain or flex mount) makes it even easier for blade to follow the ground. Of course, if you want to do some serious cutting then both the lower arms and top link should be as rigid as possiblle. I have side and center hyd cylinders on my tractor. But, I don't have the float option on my center link. However, if I was to buy a new control valve I would consider the float option, if cost is reasonable. Until then a chain does the job.
Good luck with your hyd center link, it will keep you in the seat more.

 

[W5FL]

Yeah, wished I could afford the side hydraulic link, too. Although I don't see it, I guess I can accept why you do it.

My box blade is 1000# and my rear blade is 650#. With the top link in float, the box blade would revert to maximum cut and simply set on the box blade ends, which is not usually what I need most of the time. Rear Blades are not very well managed anyway since they just have a single contact surface with the 3 point all over the place, looks like they would just push or pull the upper cylincer to the stop in float.

I am familiar with using the upper link (cylinder) to get at least 3 distinct cut and smoothing functions from the box blade. I have never used the 8 ft rear blade for anything other than cutting ditches so far. Guess I just don't see any advantage to the rear blade backwards as oppossed to the box blade setting on the rear blade (front blade up in the air) since the box blade is considerably heavier.

I see an advantage to having a large gauge wheel behind the rear blade, but don't have one. I can see no way that gauge wheels would help my box blade, simply because the weight is pretty high and it is the blade itself that keeps it stabilized from side to side (rocking) and not the 3 point and holding it up off the ground by a predetermined amount would be extremely difficult to manage or adjust. I can see doing this with a rake, but the rake works very well without the gauge wheels.

 

[EddieW]

HAs anybody looked at how to hook the hydraulics up? I have a JD4300 and the hydraulics are already back to the seat where the lever for the Front End Loader is. Seems like I should be able to tee off there and run the line to another lever to control the toplink and only have to run plumbing a couple of feet. Is there a better or another way to hook this up? I didn't look long so I may have missed something. Just trying yo get an idea of how hard it is to hook up so I can decide to try it myself or pay the price.

 

[MChalkley]

EddieW - If you don't buy the manufacturer's own kit to do it, you can usually take your pressure from the Power Beyond port on the loader valve. Just don't forget that you have to return the pressure to tank somewhere, too. If you're going to use this approach, you're also most likely going to be getting your own valve, too. Make sure it's an open center type, or there will be big trouble. (Obviously, if you have an old tractor with closed center hydraulics, the situation is reversed.)

Mark

 

[EddieW]

I was really thinking more about buying the dealer's kit and hooking it up myself. I just don't want to get it home and find out it is a lot worse than it appears. What do you mean by open center and closed center?