Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[MChalkley]

EddieW - Rather than answer it again, I'll refer you to a post where it was discussed earlier. Click on this link: http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/...view=&sb=&vc=1 and you'll find the answer, I think. If you have any further questions, just ask.

Mark

[EddieW]

Excellent description, thanks. I will keep this in mind as I try to figure out what I want to do. My guess is I have open center ports but I will verify that before I do anything.

[Keoke]

Wen, my box blade is a Gannon and the rear blade can be pinned shut. By pining the blade shut and lifting the box front high enough so that only the curved outward rear blade is setting on the ground I can get a nice finish grade going forward on it's rolled edge. The chain let's the rear blade follow the ground whenever the tractor and the scraper are not on the same plane. Have not done this with a floating ram, but my guess is that if you put it in the middle of it's travel. Then let it float, ram could act like a weak shock absorber as the box follows the ground.
Let me know what you you think.

[wen]

When I was looking at John Deere, they would add another external valve for about $800. Unfortunately most other manufacturers are just a little less expensive. My tractor would have 2 for the loader and 3 others if I could find a way to afford them. There are kits that dealers install that do the equivalent. Most people just take a bucket dump hose loose and connect them there unless they use them a lot. If you take the loader off, you have two sets free anyway.

[wen]

Keoke,

Yes, I keep the rear Gannon blade pinned shut, and keep the box blade pushed back on the rear blade. Yes, I finally see what you are doing and why you are using the chain and looking for a float valve! [img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img]

You get exactly the same effect to float the 3 point and push the blade back with the top link. Interesting how we all come up with different ways to accomplish almost the same thing. I control it from the top link and you control it from the 3 point. If the 3 point didn't have a float position, then I would be doing it the same way you are. [img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img] I guess I would have to try both to see if there is any particular advantage to floating the top link. Floating the bottom links on the 3 point allows the rear blade to compress and drag the soil and also lets it take care of side to side variations or slight slopes. Guess you will have to try it both ways.

[EddieW]

Went to the JD dealer today to pick up a rear work light. The JD 4300 I have has everything built in to hook up the hydraulics for a hydraulic top link. The kit the price was $220. It has 3 ports and to get a fourth and fifth costs and additional $695. Can somebody explain why they have three ports and not four? I didn't understand everything he was saying about it. It looks like it would not be too difficult, just time consuming. It is $200 labor for him to do it either way. He was very helpful in telling me how to do it. That does NOT include the hydraulic cylinder. He recommended a Gannon cylinder because the JD cylinders all have fork ends rather than pivot ball ends. He said they would have to be machined to work right plus he thought a 6" cylinder would work better. DOes any body know where you can get the hydraulic cylinders with the pivot ball ends? What kind of cost? His guess was about $175. Does that sound right? He thought Gannon made them to fit. I looked at the Power Link on the Woods web page and it was very difficult to tell what I was looking at. THe TL CHief links on the Baileynet.com page were big ole rascals. Maybe they make or stock smaller ones as well.

[Bird]

EddieW, if you can find a Tisco dealer, they have a category I hydraulic top link cylinder, part# HTL2102, 2" cylinder, 20" retracted length, 8" stroke, and the dealer I talked to priced it at $160.

Bird

[EddieW]

Thanks, BIrd, I'll check it out. Also, thanks for all the rain you Texans sent us. This has been the wettest June around here in 4-5 years. You can keep the grasshoppers, though. [img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[wen]

I just picked up the Gannon hydraulic top link today. Like all Gannon attachments, there are no instructions and no specifications. It really looks heafty and is made to fit your tractor. The dealer or you add the ends to connect to the hydraulic system. The total cost was $300. The cylinder looks like it is about 3 inches in diameter, so it should be pretty strong. Anyone have any specs on similar units?

This one has a cat II on one end and a cat I on the other end. The retracted link is supposed to be the same as the top link retracted that came on the tractor. I will let you know.

[MarkV]

To attach the backhoe to my tractor a T-N-T system would have to be removed each time. Should I expect it to be any harder to remove than the standard 3pt system? Has anyone put on kubota's T-N-T kit or seen how well designed they are?

Thanks-MarkV