How heavy is TOO heavy?

[jr9x23]

Howdy - first post, here. I have a 1968 Ford 2000 and am looking at a screaming deal on a Howse 6100 6' cutter that weighs about 1000 lbs. I know I am a little short on the horsepower (Howse recommends 40 hp) but am I also going to be lacking in hydraulics? I dont have a FEL. Am I going to be doing wheelies all day? Is the HP issue an absolute minimum? I hate to walk away from a good deal... Anyone with advice? Thanks in advance, Justin

 

[Soundguy]

Just because it has a 40hp gear box does not mean that it needs 40hp to operate.

Your 2000 will spin it fine. The 4 cyl 2000's were 134ci and had about 33 pto hp... that's 6' teritory. The 3 cyl units were better all around... especially if diesel..

Either unit should lift the cutter, assuming your lift is functioning correctly..

An NAA is an early predecessor to the 4 cyl 2000, and it was a 6' cutter unit as well.. though it will spin a 5' like all get out.

For modern comparisons.. look at a NH 1920.. it is 32 hp and rated fro a 6' cutter.

Not sure what trans you have.. but if not live.. get an ORC... for safety..

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

I read your post differently than Chris, and believe you were advised correctly about needing 40hp. That 6100 is spec'd with an 80hp transmission (6100T is 80hp w/slipclutch). At half a ton for only a six foot swath, it's gotta be extra heavy duty as well. My medium duty IM602 for example (six footer with 40hp tranny and slipclutch) weighs in around 580 pounds. I've got a seven foot finish mower that tips the scales at 861 pounds. And I'm pulling them with a 4400 pound tractor. So I too would be concerned about a thousand pounds of mower behind a 3600 pound Ford 2000.

 

[john_bud]

I "think" that the 40 hp is a general guide and certainly not hard and fast. You will be light on the front end, worst case you have to get some front weights. I would get it!

jb

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Howdy - first post, here. I have a 1968 Ford 2000 and am looking at a screaming deal on a Howse 6100 6' cutter that weighs about 1000 lbs. I know I am a little short on the horsepower (Howse recommends 40 hp) but am I also going to be lacking in hydraulics? I dont have a FEL. Am I going to be doing wheelies all day? Is the HP issue an absolute minimum? I hate to walk away from a good deal... Anyone with advice? Thanks in advance, Justin

Granted, 99.9% of the time, you'll have half the weight of a mower on the ground. (rear tail wheel) But.... You need to take in to account what happens when in transport mode. That mower (with weight given) is a hefty load for that particular tractor to carry around. I'm quite sure it will LIFT that much weight. It's what happens when you start moving on anything but flat smooth ground AND mower lifted. You can hang suitcase weights on the front end to compensate.

You will be operating at or near that tractors capacity (mower width) if you're cutting in HEAVY brush or thick, tall grass/weeds.

I have a late model (1974) 3000 diesel. It handle a 6' mower fairly easily, but tends to get light in the front end under some conditions.

Bottom line? You'll be at the borderline, but a 2000 Ford will handle a 6' mower in MOST conditions. Operating at "full capacity" doesn't do much to prolong the life of any equipment.

 

[firemanpat2910]

My main concern would be loading unit on a trailer. If you seldom load it you should get by, but if you are loading all the time I would try it before you buy. I have a 2910 2wheel drive Ford with all four tires loaded. When I load my 5' bush hog front wheels stay on the trailer. when I load a 6' heavy duty its wheelie time. I dont even need a seat belt the pucker factor keeps me stuck to the seat

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My main concern would be loading unit on a trailer. If you seldom load it you should get by, but if you are loading all the time I would try it before you buy. I have a 2910 2wheel drive Ford with all four tires loaded. When I load my 5' bush hog front wheels stay on the trailer. when I load a 6' heavy duty its wheelie time. I dont even need a seat belt the pucker factor keeps me stuck to the seat

I had that concern too, when i bought a new trailer that has a steeper dovetail ramp than my previous trailer. Now, I just lower the mower to a point where the tailwheel slightly drags the ground as I start up the ramps. As the front wheels climb, weight is shifted to the mowers tailwheel, keeping the tractors front wheels firmly on the trailer deck. As the front wheels crest the dovetail taper, I continue to lower the 3-point hitch, keeping the mower just inches above the ramps. Much less exciting that way.

 

[jr9x23]

Hey, thanks guys for the info. I am going to go ahead and get it. Its a good enough price that I could resell it no problem if it seems too heavy in use. I won't be tractoring it once it gets here. Thanks again for the help!

Justin

 

[Soundguy]

All of the light front end issues here can be solved with bumper mounted suitcase weights... it is specifically what they were made for. many fords even have OEM brackets for weights..

I have 420# of weight on my 5000 so I can tote a 10' mower, and had 600# on my 7610s also for a large mower.. 10' to 15' etc.

A couple hundred pounds on the front of a tractor makes up for alot of rear weight..

Soundguy

 

[jr9x23]

Thanks, I remember that the tractor has some weights on the front. I'll ask how much when it gets delivered tonight. I am really excited to get it. Nine hours and counting. This is going to be the longest stinkin' day....

Justin