Hyd top link

   / Hyd top link #1  

bones1

Platinum Member
Joined
May 31, 2006
Messages
784
Location
St.Marys County. Maryland/Tall Timbers Md.
Tractor
Farmtrac 300 dtc
Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.
 
   / Hyd top link #2  
Cylinders are usually listed as having two measurements, stroke and retracted length. You will most likely need these two measurements: center hole to center hole fully retracted and center hole to center hole fully extended.

Depending on where you are going to purchase the cylinder, those two measurements should be all you will need. You need to get a cylinder that has a stroke and retracted length as close as possible to your measurements.
 
   / Hyd top link #3  
bones1 said:
Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.
I have a suggestion in addition to Mad's advice. Often times you might benefit from having more stroke than not enough..maybe not? But this is one way to check it. For example, if you use your boxblade a lot, use the stock top link and screw it all the way in (make it as short as it will go). Then see if the boxblade has the desired angle of attack for using the rippers or cutting with the front blade. If not, you may want a "SHORTER" top link to get more tilt? Measure the center to center distance as Mad told you. Subtract an inch if you need a shorter one (or add Pat's EZ change system).

Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.
 
   / Hyd top link #5  
3RRL said:
Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.

Be very careful not to end up with a cylinder that's to long when extended. Doing so could in some cases actually send the rippers into the rear tires under certain conditions, and I don't need to tell you that isn't good.
 
   / Hyd top link #6  
bones1 said:
Thanks guys.I was looking here for a cylinder http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm unless you know of someone else that sells them.I'm getting a little clearer on this subject thanks for your help.

Here is another website that has recently started stocking TNT cylinders. They also carry a cylinder for side tilt. www.redlandhill.com
 
   / Hyd top link #7  
ovrszd said:
Here is another website that has recently started stocking TNT cylinders. They also carry a cylinder for side tilt. www.redlandhill.com

Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.
 
   / Hyd top link
  • Thread Starter
#8  
PineRidge said:
Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.
I understand they will leak down and not hold position.I quess C&C is the only source for these units.Seems odd that no one else has these units.
Thanks for the good avice so far.
 
   / Hyd top link #9  
PineRidge said:
Be very careful not to end up with a cylinder that's to long when extended. Doing so could in some cases actually send the rippers into the rear tires under certain conditions, and I don't need to tell you that isn't good.
Hi Mike, I'm sure you know when I gave the following advice I was not insinuating to make it so long as to be able to puncture the tires....hahaha....that's why he should "check" the tilt to be sure it's going to work.
Originally Posted by 3RRL
Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.
One thing your post brought to my attention is that he should check that tilt with the rippers fully extented (fully down) to avoid exactly what you warned against.

As far as sources for hydraulic cylinders, I would go to Surplus Center because they have a great selection and list the specs either right on the page or on "SPEC SHEET" so you can get all the measurements for designing. Go here: SURPLUS CENTER HYDRAULIC SECTION
They also offer a relatively new "Brand new PRINCE double pilot-operated lock valve designed to lock a cylinder in place when control valve is in the neutral position." Go HERE for the ½" npt model. I know it's not the same (specs) as the TNT check valve but in talking to them they seemed to think it would work. I am going to install them myself so I will report on them in another Thread. There has been much discussion in previous threads about using "other than TNT" check valves, but in light of the fact that we can't get any from them, that's what I'm going to do.
 
 
 
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