bones1
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2006
- Messages
- 784
- Tractor
- Farmtrac 300 dtc
Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.
I have a suggestion in addition to Mad's advice. Often times you might benefit from having more stroke than not enough..maybe not? But this is one way to check it. For example, if you use your boxblade a lot, use the stock top link and screw it all the way in (make it as short as it will go). Then see if the boxblade has the desired angle of attack for using the rippers or cutting with the front blade. If not, you may want a "SHORTER" top link to get more tilt? Measure the center to center distance as Mad told you. Subtract an inch if you need a shorter one (or add Pat's EZ change system).bones1 said:Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.
3RRL said:Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.
bones1 said:Thanks guys.I was looking here for a cylinder http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm unless you know of someone else that sells them.I'm getting a little clearer on this subject thanks for your help.
ovrszd said:Here is another website that has recently started stocking TNT cylinders. They also carry a cylinder for side tilt. www.redlandhill.com
I understand they will leak down and not hold position.I quess C&C is the only source for these units.Seems odd that no one else has these units.PineRidge said:Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.
Hi Mike, I'm sure you know when I gave the following advice I was not insinuating to make it so long as to be able to puncture the tires....hahaha....that's why he should "check" the tilt to be sure it's going to work.PineRidge said:Be very careful not to end up with a cylinder that's to long when extended. Doing so could in some cases actually send the rippers into the rear tires under certain conditions, and I don't need to tell you that isn't good.
One thing your post brought to my attention is that he should check that tilt with the rippers fully extented (fully down) to avoid exactly what you warned against.Originally Posted by 3RRL
Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.