3pt Plow ????

[deerhunterf350]

I have been reading numerous posts , trying to decide which would be the best plow for a NH TC 55 4wd, R1 Ags, Thinking about adding 4 wheel Weights.

Most everyone says stay away from shear pin Bottoms.

But a Ford Model 101 has alot of " Hard to find a much better plow than a Ford 101" comments floating around.

Isn't the Ford 101 a Shear pin protected plow ?

Is the shear bolts that big of pain?

I would be plowing 2 acres Spring and Fall.

Reason I am asking , I have found a 3 bt 12" Ford 101, sharp points, good shears, shins , and boards. The Tailwheel spins freely, no slop in the bearing. It has more wear from the weather ( No Paint ), has a ghost of the Ford Emblem , but the Ford Plate is still intact. He wants $75 for it, said if I bought it he would look this winter in the weeds where it is sitting, he thinks that it had coulters but took them off for some reason.


Will I be pulling the guts out of the TC-55 , with that Plow?

If so I could easily make a 2 bt plow by swapping the second plow with the Third ( Tailwheel ) and have extra parts. All for $75.00

Area has been turned over and gardened for the past 20 years, with Manure, Straw, Leaves ,coarse sand added throughout the years. It was orignally heavy red clay, but now is significantly looser, doesn't compact as much, and dark brown in color.


Thanks.

 

[wolc123]

It depends on your transmission. If you have gear, no problem with the 3-bottom. If you have hydro, you will be ok just doing a couple acres, but you would want to remove one bottom if you are doing much more than that. Hydro's are great for a lot of jobs but definitely not for plowing.

 

[texasjohn]

For $75 I recommend you buy it. Downside is nil. You can try it and see how it goes. Sounds like it is in good repair. Remove one plow as you say if it's too much and gain spare parts. Weights are good. To your benefit is that the land has been well worked over previously,.

 

[deerhunterf350]

It depends on your transmission. If you have gear, no problem with the 3-bottom. If you have hydro, you will be ok just doing a couple acres, but you would want to remove one bottom if you are doing much more than that. Hydro's are great for a lot of jobs but definitely not for plowing.

Sorry it is a Gear Tranny.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

DearHunter,
Unless you have some real bad clay I bet you will pull that plow easy with a TC55. I came into the possesion of a Ford 101 all rusty with worn out shins. I hooked it up to my 270DTC, 27hp, got the plow set fairly close and started pulling, rust and all. The rust wore off pretty quickly and I had very few problems. The biggest one was trash building up on the first plow. It was a three year old field and I had just brush hogged it. Now my soil is sandy loam and muck and it turned over that soil just fine. It rained here a couple days ago so teh soil is damp but not wet. There doesn't seem to be shear pins on the plow. Mine looked like it is just spring loaded.

eric

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have been reading numerous posts , trying to decide which would be the best plow for a NH TC 55 4wd, R1 Ags, Thinking about adding 4 wheel Weights.

Most everyone says stay away from shear pin Bottoms.

But a Ford Model 101 has alot of " Hard to find a much better plow than a Ford 101" comments floating around.

Isn't the Ford 101 a Shear pin protected plow ?

Is the shear bolts that big of pain?

I would be plowing 2 acres Spring and Fall.

Reason I am asking , I have found a 3 bt 12" Ford 101, sharp points, good shears, shins , and boards. The Tailwheel spins freely, no slop in the bearing. It has more wear from the weather ( No Paint ), has a ghost of the Ford Emblem , but the Ford Plate is still intact. He wants $75 for it, said if I bought it he would look this winter in the weeds where it is sitting, he thinks that it had coulters but took them off for some reason.


Will I be pulling the guts out of the TC-55 , with that Plow?

If so I could easily make a 2 bt plow by swapping the second plow with the Third ( Tailwheel ) and have extra parts. All for $75.00

Area has been turned over and gardened for the past 20 years, with Manure, Straw, Leaves ,coarse sand added throughout the years. It was orignally heavy red clay, but now is significantly looser, doesn't compact as much, and dark brown in color.


Thanks.

Ford 101 IS a great plow, shear pin OR saftey trip version. The latter being your best choice if you can find one. They trip just like a shearbolt plow when you hit an obstruction. Then the difference shines through. With safter trip beams, you just raise the plow, start to back up, and set the plow down on the ground. The bottom re-positions itself, and locks back WITHOUT THE NEED TO REPLACE A BOLT. If you have ground with rocks or roots, and anticipate tripping the bottoms more tha once or twice, shear bolts can be time consuming and AGRIVATING!

Weight of a plow can sometimes be an issue. 3-bottom plows, regardless of width of bottom, tend to be heavier than a 2-bottom plow. 3X12"'s will actually pull EASIER than 2X16" once in the ground. (IF used at designed depth. 12" plows are intended for plowing at 6" depth. 16" bottoms intended for 8" depth)

In a lot of cases, the front coulter was removed. It would catch on 3-point draft arms, drawbars and other parts of SOME tractors.

Your New Holland should be able to pull 3X12"'s with ease in good soil. (So long as the plow is in good shape. Worn shares or shins can make 'em pull like an anchor)

In the case of Ford 101 plows, 14" and 16" bottom wear parts are easy to find. 12" are getting scarce. If the wear parts on the plow you're looking at are in fair condition, you're good to go for maybe 100 acres or more.

$75 is a phenominal price! That plow would sell for $300 to $600 at a good auction. I'd jump on it at that dollar.