cordwood saw

[Diesel_Boy]

hey all. i would like to sharpen my cordwood saw. i'd like to try it myself, and manually (no power grinders). does anyone have any info on proper angles, what type of file to use, and where i might possibly purchase a file guide to get the angles right every time? any tips would be much appreciated. thank you.

 

[Birdhunter1]

You can find informationon proper angles and file sizes on the Stihl website, www.stihlusa.com

 

[Diesel_Boy]

i tried, but i couldn't find anything related to cordwood saws at this website. thank you, though.

 

[browns40]

Hi dieselboy,

Sharpening a chain is pretty easy to do... if your chain's cutting chips instead of powder at this point you should be able to spot the angle you need to stroke the file at.

First, put on your gloves--leather at least.

Next you may need a flat file for getting your rakers (if you have) filed below the top of the cutting edge--not more than 1/8 inch, as not to take too big a bite.

Then start working your teeth--a round file the appropriate diameter is used, and varies based on your saw chain. Watch the files relationship to the cutting edge. I use a push stroke only, in the direction on the tooth point.

Mine usually takes 4-7 strokes, depending on wear. Take the same strokes on each tooth so they wear evenly.

I can tell when it's sharp by the feel of the file against the chain--final push feels smooth... but also by observing that the cutting edge and file have a "seamless" relation--the cutting edge-->tip matches the roundness & angle of the file.

Then turn the saw 180 degrees and work the opposing cutting edges.

Remove & flip your blade over when you're through... remove chain & use flat file along edges of groove to remove burrs you may have picked up. You are not removing much material here and light pressure's all you need.

Reassemblke, clean & tension your saw when you're through.

When done right your saw should produce spirals of shavings instead of chips/powder, and pull it's way through again.

Hope I described well--would be a heckuva lot easier to show!

 

[Propertymaint]

Dieselboy, My father and I have always butted heads on this issue. He does it by "eye" with a wide file - it works well enough for touching up the saw but after a few passes with the file the saw blade ends up out of round and "chops" at the wood. I have found sending the saw blade out for profesional sharpening when it dulls up really brings it back to new. A good power equipment store will be able to get it sharpened for you. Besides sharpening the blade they usually set the teeth to the correct angle and true it up. It used to be about $50. I haven't done mine yet but plan on sending it out before next season. Just my opinion - let us know how you make out.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hi dieselboy,

Sharpening a chain is pretty easy to do... if your chain's cutting chips instead of powder at this point you should be able to spot the angle you need to stroke the file at.

First, put on your gloves--leather at least.

Next you may need a flat file for getting your rakers (if you have) filed below the top of the cutting edge--not more than 1/8 inch, as not to take too big a bite.

Then start working your teeth--a round file the appropriate diameter is used, and varies based on your saw chain. Watch the files relationship to the cutting edge. I use a push stroke only, in the direction on the tooth point.

Mine usually takes 4-7 strokes, depending on wear. Take the same strokes on each tooth so they wear evenly.

I can tell when it's sharp by the feel of the file against the chain--final push feels smooth... but also by observing that the cutting edge and file have a "seamless" relation--the cutting edge-->tip matches the roundness & angle of the file.

Then turn the saw 180 degrees and work the opposing cutting edges.

Remove & flip your blade over when you're through... remove chain & use flat file along edges of groove to remove burrs you may have picked up. You are not removing much material here and light pressure's all you need.

Reassemblke, clean & tension your saw when you're through.

When done right your saw should produce spirals of shavings instead of chips/powder, and pull it's way through again.

Hope I described well--would be a heckuva lot easier to show!

A cordwood saw uses a large CIRCULAR saw blade, NOT a chain.


Try a Woodcrafters Store if there's one near you. They won't sharpen saws like that, but generally, they'll know of someone who will. Also call any vendors in your area that deal with portable saw mills. (Or even call a sawmill????) Sharpening saw blades is a dying art. All the "throw-away" carbide blade on the market make it cheaper to use and toss. Those BIG blades ain't cheap Or easy to get though. Good luck.

 

[turnkey4099]

Dieselboy, My father and I have always butted heads on this issue. He does it by "eye" with a wide file - it works well enough for touching up the saw but after a few passes with the file the saw blade ends up out of round and "chops" at the wood. I have found sending the saw blade out for profesional sharpening when it dulls up really brings it back to new. A good power equipment store will be able to get it sharpened for you. Besides sharpening the blade they usually set the teeth to the correct angle and true it up. It used to be about $50. I haven't done mine yet but plan on sending it out before next season. Just my opinion - let us know how you make out.

The nice thing about those saws is that they don't need a lot of sharpening unless you hit metal or rock. You should be able to touch one up by eye a few times before it needs be done professionally. Just eyeball the angles on the teeth and use a flat file. I don't know of any guide for manual filing.

Harry K

 

[Justaplain]

When you say "cordwood saw"" are you talking a chain or circular saw? bcs

 

[Diesel_Boy]

when i say cordwood saw, i mean a circular saw, 30" in diameter, which is pto driven and can cut up to 12" diameter wood

 

[knute_m]

Diesel Boy,

I spent way too much of my early life zinging wood with a cordwood saw. Ours were belt driven off "new" John Deeres and IHs. But, if you've got one you want to use...

First, take a look at this thread

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82415

You may find a few kindred spirits there. Maybe you could PM them or e-mail them for more advice.

As for sharpening, it is important that you have the proper "set" before you start filing. I've still got a painful looking device that looks kind of like a big pair of pliers that got mixed up with a banding tool for hogs. It bends the teeth out just a little bit so that the blade makes a kerf bigger than the cut. I haven't sharpened one of these blades in over 30 years, but, as I recall, the set is fairly shallow -- maybe 5 degrees at most, maybe a little less. Just a little bit, left and right for every-other tooth. My uncle did it by eye using a ball peen hammer. It is important that all are exactly the same. Otherwise the blade will pull the logs and jam -- not good. It pulls shoulders, wrists, and hands too!

The sharpened edge should be exactly parallel to the arbor, or exactly perpendicular to the face of the blade after the blade has been set.

When I was a kid, we had a jig that went on a house jack (screw jack) below the blade. We would extend it to just below the blade to give us an approximate parallel surface for the file. It also allowed us to make sure that all teeth were exactly the same length.

All that said, I would never cut wood with a buzz saw again. They are pretty dangerous, and I think I can cut a lot faster, and have a lot more energy at the end of the day, using a good chain saw.

Good luck,

Knute