Disc Harrow vs. Rotary Tiller

[Neophyte]

I have a Howse LTR28022C 6' Disc Harrow (iMatch) and I'm pondering purchasing a Rotary Tiller. The Disc Harrow seems to do a decent job but it doesn't seem to break it up fine enough. My question is will the Tiller do anything more for me than my Disc Harrow? Is it worth the extra $1100 to $1500 or should I just stick with my Disc Harrow?

I would be using it for the following:
1. Small Garden & Small Corn Field
2. Breaking up my rough field (2-4 acres) so I can begin to level it with my box blade, landscape rake and drag harrow. I will then reseed it to create a lawn.

If you think a Tiller is the answer, then would a light duty unit (First Choice, CCM, KK, etc.) be good enough for my needs? Also, what is the largest width I should go with for my 3320 (25 PTO HP)? As stated above, I will be using it to convert my field but this should only be a one time thing. Obviously, the garden and corn field will be done on a regular basis.

First Choice Tillers
CCM Tillers
King Kutter, Farm Star, NorTrac and Howse Tillers

Are any of these units iMatch compatible?

Is the NorTrac for $850 worth thinking about or do you get what you pay for? Its construction (especially the tines) seem questionable but it does have a gear drive.

I did have a question about Disc Harrow use. Can I be using the Disc Harrow in forward and reverse or should I only be moving in the forward direction? Also, can I leave it engaged when turning or should I lift it prior to turning?

Thanks for you help.

 

[Egon]

Go for the rotatiller. To do a good job the disk needs weight and lots of pulling power in front of it.

When making sharp turns lift the disc if it is a three point hitch type.

 

[jbrumberg]

Neophyte:

I own a NH TC29DA (23+ PTO HP) and am very satisfied with my CCM MR-160(58") Commercial Duty tiller. The MR-160 can handle 18 - 60 PTO HP; the MR-175 (66") can handle 22 - 70 HP. I would suggest you get a tiller that is slightly wider than your rear wheel width and as you live in ME I think you should not go "light duty" due to your probable rocky and heavy clay based soil. Jay

 

[Thomas]

Morning Neophyte.
You gotten some good advice so far.
I would go w/tiller,for there might be smaller jobs in the future where disc would be a pain to use.

"Breaking up my rough field (2-4 acres)"...you could always hire some one w/heavier equipment to break ground than feather it out w/the tiller.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have a Howse LTR28022C 6' Disc Harrow (iMatch) and I'm pondering purchasing a Rotary Tiller. The Disc Harrow seems to do a decent job but it doesn't seem to break it up fine enough. My question is will the Tiller do anything more for me than my Disc Harrow? Is it worth the extra $1100 to $1500 or should I just stick with my Disc Harrow?

I would be using it for the following:
1. Small Garden & Small Corn Field
2. Breaking up my rough field (2-4 acres) so I can begin to level it with my box blade, landscape rake and drag harrow. I will then reseed it to create a lawn.

If you think a Tiller is the answer, then would a light duty unit (First Choice, CCM, KK, etc.) be good enough for my needs? Also, what is the largest width I should go with for my 3320 (25 PTO HP)? As stated above, I will be using it to convert my field but this should only be a one time thing. Obviously, the garden and corn field will be done on a regular basis.

First Choice Tillers
CCM Tillers
King Kutter, Farm Star, NorTrac and Howse Tillers

Are any of these units iMatch compatible?

Is the NorTrac for $850 worth thinking about or do you get what you pay for? Its construction (especially the tines) seem questionable but it does have a gear drive.

I did have a question about Disc Harrow use. Can I be using the Disc Harrow in forward and reverse or should I only be moving in the forward direction? Also, can I leave it engaged when turning or should I lift it prior to turning?

Thanks for you help.

Let's cover the disc first. You already have it by what I'm reading. You're wanting to know if a tiller will "break up" soil better than a disc. Yes it will. Just be aware of the fact that you DON'T want dirt worked into a talcum powder consistancy. That said, I realize most smaller disc's don't have enough weight, nor are most set at sharp enough cutting angles to do much serious ground work. Also, most of them are built with 7" disc spacing. That is good for "finishing" but not good for digging in to unworked soil. A disc is made to operate going ONE WAY. FORWARD. I don't see any usefull purpose for back up with it in the ground. Likewise, I'd suggest you RAISE it when turning. Leaving it in the ground when turning puts undue stress on the frame. There's been a few well documented cases on here and other sites where people have wadded up a disc frame doing that.

A tiller will do MOST of what a disc is intended for. Just be aware of rocks and stumps. Buried obstructions are rough on a tiller. I have a 72" King Kutter tiller that's been around for a few seasons now. (Finishing 5th year) It's seen more than its share of hard work, and hasn't complained one bit. I've used it enough to wear the tines out about halfway. I'd match it against any brand dollar for dollar. I've used it plenty behind a 60 PTO HP tractor, and a little bit behind a 40 PTO HP tractor with no ill effects.

My experience with a tiller, as I've mentioned, is with bigger tractors. However, my neighbor has a Kubota that's about the size of your tractor, and he uses a 4' tiller (KK also) with ease. Not sure you'd want much bigger, but someone with a 25 HP (+ or -) can give you better feedback on that. Same applies to "I-Match". No personal experience with it.

After 5 seasons with a tiller, I'd be hard pressed to do without one.

 

[pilonidal]

I am using a 55 inch Kioti tiller on my CK20 with 18-19 pto hp with no problems, but the rocks. Being in the state above you I am wondering about your soil content with rocks. I use mine for the garden and odds and end stuff around the place. Initially I had to use the tiller in reverse, until I got the rockes cleared I took the shield off the back of the tiller and used it by going in reverse with the tractor so the rocks would be lifted up and thrown in front of the tiller as it moved backwards. Just for a small garden plot it was like riding a bucking horse and the tiller binding up from the rocks getting lodged/wedged in it. I have the slip clutch very loose. It took a few passes to get down to give the soil a good tilling while clearing the rocks as I went. For the amount you want to till I would definetly get a counter rotating tiller. It will save so much time and the rock problem won't be so bad, if you have a rock problem. With the cr tiller you can drive the tractor normally and the tines will lift and throw the dirt/rocks from the bottom up in front of the tiller as you move. The regular tiller tines come down on top of the soil/rocks and throw it out the back. But if you have rocks.....the tines coming down on to a rock is kidney rattling experience. Then they just get caught between the dirt shield and the tines going out the back. Lots of stop time clearing the tiller of rocks in Pennsylvanian soil. For the amount you want to till, a counter rotating tiller would be the best/easiest way IMHO.

 

[Fishguy]

I have the same but different situation . I have roughly 7 acres (converted farm land, so no rocks to worry about) that needs to smoothed out but I have a 5 foot tiller and 25 hp Massey. I have already done about 1 1/2 acres and it took forever. Real slow going. I was thinking/hoping that the disc harrow would let me do a quicker job.
Or, If I use a harrow then wait a day for the soil to dry out some then use the tiller, this might speed things up. Not sure. But three or four passes with the tiller can get old fast!

Steve

 

[HEC]

If I had two or more acres to break up I would buy a used 1 or 2 bottom plow which are pretty cheap in my area,let the ground set for awhile and than use your disc to break it up some more,if not good enough after that I would than use a tiller.The plow is great for breaking up hard ground and will help to lift out any rocks you might have.I use all three and they each have there own benefits.
Good Luck

 

[CDsdad]

I actually did what HEC recommends. I had rough ground from watermelons planted there last. I turned it over with a 2 bottom plow, gave 3-4 days for grass and weeds to dry, disced to powder, smoothed with a drag. Probably had about 8 hrs total to do a little over 2 acres. I do wish I had a tiller though, for wife a new flower bed and several smaller projects.

I had to borrow the plow, but a good used one around here is $200-$300.

 

[Neophyte]

I should clarify that I already have the disc harrow. It was picked up at an auction back around 1994. It is a medium duty unit with 6 angle settings on the rear discs and 5 angle settings on the front. Please note that angles are set wrong in the picture. I currently have both sets of discs in the 3rd angle setting.

Picture of my Disc Harrow

To do a good job the disk needs weight and lots of pulling power in front of it.

The disc harrow seemed to work fairly well behind my 3320. With the discs in angle position 3, they seemed to break the ground fairly well while it was wet. Of course, I didn't have any weight on the frame and I was losing traction in the mud. I will need to try it again when it is dry. I was also thinking about setting a few small boulders on top of it to add some weight.

you could always hire some one w/heavier equipment to break ground than feather it out w/the tiller.

I couldn't bring myself to hire someone. My whole point in getting the tractor was so I wouldn't have to hire anyone to do my landscaping ... at least that is what I told my wife. Hiring someone would bring that reason into question.

A disc is made to operate going ONE WAY. FORWARD. I don't see any usefull purpose for back up with it in the ground. Likewise, I'd suggest you RAISE it when turning. Leaving it in the ground when turning puts undue stress on the frame. There's been a few well documented cases on here and other sites where people have wadded up a disc frame doing that.

The manual did not come with this unit and Howse does not offer their manuals online. You need to call them to order one and they charge $10 each. I ordered a manual several weeks ago and I still have not received it. Howse has one of the worst customer service departments I have ever dealt with. I did manage to download a disc harrow manual from the LandPride website. After reading through it, it does confirm that you should always lift it before turning and reversing.

I am wondering about your soil content with rocks.

Maine is known for its rocky soil, however, my lot may be the exception. Under the topsoil, it mostly hard clay with some gravel and rocks in certain areas. Where I will be tilling, it is mostly hard clay.

For the amount you want to till I would definetly get a counter rotating tiller.

Who makes a reasonably priced quality counter-rotating tiller?

Or, If I use a harrow then wait a day for the soil to dry out some then use the tiller, this might speed things up. Not sure. But three or four passes with the tiller can get old fast!

After making some passes with my disc harrow, I think it would work very well in conjunction with a tiller as you are mentioning. I would think the tiller would make quick work of soil that has already been broken up by a disc harrow.

If I had two or more acres to break up I would buy a used 1 or 2 bottom plow which are pretty cheap in my area,let the ground set for awhile and than use your disc to break it up some more,if not good enough after that I would than use a tiller.

I have a three or four bottom plow but it is currently attached to a Farmall M. I dont' think it is made for a 3PH. I will have to take a look at it to see how it is connected to the Farmall since I don't recall. I have used this before behind the Farmall and it really lifts the soil ... almost too much. It makes a pretty big mess but it may be the quickest way to go.

I had rough ground from watermelons planted there last. I turned it over with a 2 bottom plow, gave 3-4 days for grass and weeds to dry, disced to powder, smoothed with a drag.

What did you use as your drag harrow?

Thanks for all of your help. I think I will try the disc harrow with some weight and large disc angles. I may give the bottom plow a try as well. In the mean-time, I'm going to keep an eye out for a used tiller.