Curtis blade attachment?

[BruceW]

My dealer has recently installed a 6 1/2 foot curtis blade with power angle on my loader arms. In doing so he has disconnected the curl cylinders and strapped them down to the loader arms with foam in between to protect the paint. He also attaches a chain to a hook that he welded on the cross member between the loader arms, the other ends attach to the Curtis bracket. Obviously this allows operation of the power angle with the 2 lever loader valve.

Is this normal? Do people replace their valves with 3 lever models so they can have the curl cylinders attached as well? Am I giving up strength or functionality by not having these cylinders in use?

thanks

bruce

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like the dealer has the right idea to me. In a recent post, someone was saying he had trouble leaving the curl function alone when operating his curtis blade on the FEL (causing undo frustration and wear on his blade), and you have had that problem corrected by your dealer knowing how to fix it.
But, it is yours to do with what you want.

 

[ronjhall]

Bruce
Your dealer has installed your blade the way Curtis recommends it be installed when you do not add a valve for angle.
Not wanting to remove curl from my cylinders I added a second valve to operate power angle. To stop movement of blade with curl I made a plate that uses same bolts as anti rattle plate uses.

I can still use curl to change how vertical blade is to ground. But it will only happens if I move loader control arm into side slots.
Another reason to add valve is removal of blade only takes 4 pins and 2 hose connections and I can install my bucket back on loader frame.
Your Curtis blade will work very well as installed. Hope you have more snow than we have in South East Michigan. I haven't even put my blade on yet this year. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[treeboone]

Ron, please excuse me for straying off topic, I noticed in your bio that you have a buzz saw. I for one would be REALLY interested in a pic and some info on it if you would be so kind, maybe in a separate topic. Thanks ahead.

 

[tractorman]

We normally add a single spool valve to the tractor to operte the angle on the blade. Costs about 150.00 and is easy to install, plus no stupid looking hook welded to the cross tube.

 

[RickB]

The plow will float and folllow ground contours better with the chain attachment. Adding a 3rd valve increases the cost, and without very careful operation, enables downpressure on the blade, not desirable in most instances. If added by a skilled welder, the hook need not be 'stupid looking' as suggested. You have the preferred installation IMHO.

 

[BruceW]

Thanks, to all. My hook and chain has a professional appearance and does not bother me from that aspect.

I will use as is (if I ever get any snow)/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif and then decide if I want/need to install the other valve for ease of removal etc.

 

[Scaper]

I'm going to try this again. I just got done installing my front blade today. I chose to mount the blade inside the bucket to facilitate quick change to loader only. Although I love the curtis setup I felt that spending $1.600 for their blade system was a bit of overkill for the ammount of snow we recieve here in Delaware. This is a breakdown of what I have into the setup to date. Meyers 6.5 poly plow bought as one of a set last season for $100 each, clevis for plow $25, hardware to weld $25, welding cost and steel needed to complete the framework $150. This as you can see, brings the total to $300. I have devised a chain/hook setup to control angle for the time being, I would like to have hydrolics on the plow but I have another idea that may work just as well. I removed the cylinders for angle control and in their place I plan to put a set of adjustable links like those found on the 3pt set up of my TC33D New Holland. These are quick change units for the sway control to the rear implements. My welder states he can duplicate anything so he is making up a set that are heavier to control the angle of the plow. I only need three holes per side to get the angles I need. I think this setup will be fine since I only change angle from straight to 15 or 30 degrees to plow then I change my direction to clear the rest of the road. I like the rear outlet but $50 for the control arms verses $250 for the rear outlet makes more sense to me at this point in the game. The frame work is very HD for this setup and provides a inside rear brace system to prevent any twist of the bucket while plowing. This is a low budget high preformance hookup and anyone can do it. The whole set up attaches with six half inch stainless bolts and two pins for the plow attachment to the framework. I put it on yesterday in five minutes not bad for $300 dollars. As soon as I get some pictures and figure out how to attach them I'll show everyone the setup. Scaper

 

[winchman]

Scraper,

I'd love to see some pics. I just started rebuilding an old plow off a truck to Quick-mount in my bucket. Still have lots of engineering and welding to do. Thomas has a nice "plow in the bucket" set-up also. I'm with you on the fact that the curtis is a nice set-up, but toooo much money for me. I might have $250 in mine when done.

winchman

 

[Scaper]

Winchman, If I have to I'll take a roll of film and do the 1 hr. development and send them to you. this set up is sweet and not overly hard to do by any means. You will need the right clevis for your plow (the part that goes on the truck and the A-frame slides into) mine is a Meyers standard two meter A- frame with 1 1/4 inch square stock that is bent in a slight upward angle with a hole in the end that hooks to the A-frame via a pin like that is used on a slide in mount for a truck. A hitch pin. You will like the ease of taking off the plow and still having the bucket to move piles of snow if needed. Send me an E-mail and give me a phone number if you want to talk about this set up or I can give you my number and times to call. Scaper