Rotary Cutter Bush hog 950 hoe

[kje383]

Does anyone have any experiance with this backhoe? I am seriousley considering one for my tn60a.How does it compare to a bradco 3511? Any info would be apreciated.KJE

 

[RodgerF]

I have no experience with either hoe you mentioned but I do have the BH 750. It has 80 or so hours on it and has been trouble free. Strong for its size too. I wouldn't see why the 950 would be any different. The only down side to a hoe is the number of grease fittings. You could make a second career out of keeping it lubed.

Good luck

Rodger

 

[kje383]

Thanks for the reply. I hear a lot of talk about 3 point hoes breaking tractors, but only one manufactorier makes a subframe kit for a tn60"bradco" and it is 2 grand more and i will have to remove my skid plate, which on my land, trees and rocks is handy and saves a lot of broken wires and hoses.It seems to me if breaking the tractor in two was a problem woods, bushhog even new holland would make a subframe for this tractor. kje

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Thanks for the reply. I hear a lot of talk about 3 point hoes breaking tractors, but only one manufactorier makes a subframe kit for a tn60"bradco" and it is 2 grand more and i will have to remove my skid plate, which on my land, trees and rocks is handy and saves a lot of broken wires and hoses.It seems to me if breaking the tractor in two was a problem woods, bushhog even new holland would make a subframe for this tractor. kje

There has been a lot of debate and opinion over 3 point or frame mount. There are a LOT of 3 point hoes being sold everyday for all makes of tractors. All backhoes that have any power to them can break a tractor or something else.....especially when you start yanking and snatching on something. People who have used a hoe knows what I mean.

If a tractor does not have a brace coming from the loader bracket to the rear axle housing .... makes a weaker set up.

When using a backhoe and say you are digging straight off the the back ... when you dig in with the bucket it is trying to pull the tractor backwards.

When you are digging off to the side [yanking and snatching ] .... that is when it is trying to bend the tractor in the middle... thats when things get broke.


Just food for thought.........

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[dfkrug]

I hear a lot of talk about 3 point hoes breaking tractors, but only one manufactorier makes a subframe kit for a tn60"bradco" and it is 2 grand more and i will have to remove my skid plate, which on my land, trees and rocks is handy and saves a lot of broken wires and hoses.It seems to me if breaking the tractor in two was a problem woods, bushhog even new holland would make a subframe for this tractor. kje

I have seen the Woods catalog of subframes (available only to Woods
dealers) and they make many of them. Maybe more than anyone, I don't
know. Bradco has a reputation of providing heavy duty hoes for
commercial work, esp on skidsteers. I am sure that Bush Hog has subframes
for many tractors, too.

That said, there are hundreds of different tractors out there, all needing
different subframes. How many different products can a company like
Woods or Bradco or Bush Hog make? Makers of hoes strongly advise the
use of subframes, but still provide 3-pt connections so they can be sold
to anyone.

 

[kje383]

Maybe the answer is to build my own subframe for the bushhog 950, then maybe i can keep my skidplate, Thanks for the replys.

 

[dfkrug]

Maybe the answer is to build my own subframe for the bushhog 950, then maybe i can keep my skidplate, Thanks for the replys.

Custom-built subframes are a good way to go. (I am building my 4th
one now.) You can optimize your subframe for your tractor and hoe.

Some on this forum think that factory-built subframes are inherently the
best, but I have had and installed both and I think a good custom
design can be a big improvement.

When I make a custom subframe, I try to:

> mount the hoe as close in to the back of the tractor as the tires
will allow. This reduces the polar moment of inertia of the tractor, which
can adversely affect driving it around. It also can result in better
ground clearance.

> completely avoid use of the toplink bracket. These only have
typically four or six 1/2" bolts in tension. Better to support the hoe at
4 points, 2 above and 2 below the rear axle/diff housing.

> make it so you don't have to remove the 3-pt lower arms when
the hoe is mounted. These are a PITA to take off and put on. Many
factory subframes require total removal of all 3-pt components.

> use a "good" compromise between quick mounting and strength.
IMO, pins with clips are inferior to bolts/nuts that can be tightened.
The latter is slower to mount, but does not wiggle. Even the slightest
looseness will result in a wiggle and distorted holes. Bolts can easily
get loose and must be monitored, however.

> build in some sort of self alignment so it is easier to position the hoe
relative to the tractor when mounting. Otherwise, it can be hard to get
the bolts in the holes. I use 1" bolts and nuts.

> integrate the forward part of the subframe with the loader subframe
and protection of vulnerable underpinnings. I weld on plates and
brackets as needed to protect hydraulics.