Rake need quick tips on rake guage wheel adjustments

[hazmat]

Tried to rent a rake - the local rental yards require you to rent the tractor as well . Called around and the local Deere dealer has a used rake in stock. Sorry guys - It's got my name on it now.

Anyway - looking for a couple quick tips on how to set the wheels. I need to finish grade 6,000 sq ft where my pool once was. I'm trying to get it done today & tomorrow afterwork - It is supposed to rain on Friday, which would make for a Muddy weekend... I tried a search, but came up with yes you want wheels & here is how to build your own - I'm looking for operating tips to get me up the learning curve quicker.

Thanks in advance.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well, I have a rake with gauge wheels but I don't have a lot hours on it yet. Maybe more experienced TBNers will pipe in here. This is what I did: The wheels need to be set after you consider how aggressive an angle you intend to use. I set mine up so that I could drag dirt and roots just below the surface which is pretty aggressive but sounds like what you would want. Set the toplink so when the rake is just touching the ground the tines are curving forward a bit. Then, adjust the wheels to keep the tines in about that position even when you lower the 3pt arms so they are no longer supporting the rake. In theory, the wheels will keep the rake from digging in too deeply but will keep the rake engaged with the soil. Obviously you may need to make adjustments but I think that is the general idea. You can also raise up the 3pt arms so they are taking more of the rake weight as you would if there were no gauge wheels and in that case the wheels would be just acting as "safety" devices to prevent the rake digging in when you go over a bump or up an incline.

 

[HomeBrew2]

I think Island mostly has it. Though I find it difficult to make a rake much less aggressive in any position other than backwards. I just set the wheel height spacers so the rake is roughly level. I rarely mess with those height spacers and do all on-the-job adjusting with the top link. BTW, I use a longer top link with my rake than I do with my BB or RB.

 

[HomeBrew2]

One more thing, as the rake fills up it, obviously, gets heavier. The wheels will probably be pushed into the soil slightly and the heavier it gets the more it will dig. To avoid gouging, grade it in stages if necessary.

 

[CTyler]

I set the rake so it tilting forward a little and the tines are 1-2" off the ground. Basically get it close for your needs. Then use the HTL to raise or lower the tines by tilting forward or back. This leaves the gauge wheels in constant contact. This is how I set up when dumping dirt on the grass lawn/field to smooth it out.

 

[hazmat]

Thanks guys - picked up the rake this afternoon. In case you are wondering, a 6' rake will fit in the back of a Honda Pilot if you take it apart

This thing works so much better than my rear blade - After a couple passes it looks good. I've got one high & one low spot I need to work tomorrow evening...

 

[HomeBrew2]

... This thing works so much better than my rear blade ...

Sorry, you must not have much experience with a rear blade with gauge wheels ... I only use my rake for collecting brush anymore after adding my interchangable gauge wheel system to my rear blade. No comparison.

 

[hazmat]

I'll have to try them on the blade sometime. Tonight I'm rushing to finish before tomorrow's rain so that I can seed this weekend.