Input for Post Hole digger/ Auger

[n8wrl]

I have a Leinbach 7200 ...
1. Put boom arch on lift arms and attach boom end to toplink attach point.
2. Back tractor so boom end is in corner of barn where gearbox/auger are
stood for storage. Lean gearbox away from wall where it stands and line
up pin and hole on end of boom to insert pin and lockpin.
3. Attach driveshaft to PTO and go start "makin hole".
...

I didn't even think of removing that pin for storage - brilliant! One note tho - also have the 7200 but I bought it for my L3130. I find that now with my 5030 and its cat-2 lift arms the auger doesn't lift quite high enough to clear the ground for travel. It doesn't take too long, but I do remove the auger before driving 'to work'.

Works like a champ tho!

-Brian

 

[Soundguy]

Unfortunately, my only tractor with a FEL is a ford 660 from 1955.. and i don't think it is up to the task..

Soundguy

You might check out the thread on my front QA hydraulic phd - solves a lot of the problems with the 3 point ones, but costs more

 

[kbiddle]

I have a Danuser for my 3830 and seems to work very well...

 

[N80]

I was looking at Landprides site and saw two interesting things. First, they make hydraulic units that will bolt to the side of an FEL bucket. One of them will work at 5gpm.

Also, for their hydraulic and PTO driven PHDs they make a 'downforce' unit for the 3pt hitch. FRom what I can tell it is pretty much just a hydraulic top link with the proper dimensions. However, for a hydro unit you'd need two sets of rear remotes, one for the hydro, one for the downforce piston.

 

[EddieWalker]

Don't make the mistake I made when I bought mine. I figured they were all alike and I'd just buy what my dealer had for a good price. Looking back, I should have spent some time shopping around.

There are only two three point brands that I'm aware of that are worth haveing. The Lowe and the Pengo. Not to knock the other brands, as I have a Linbaugh Line, but they all fall short on there cutting edges.

The augers cutting edge is what you need to consider before anything else when buying an auger. A good tip will allow you to change types of cutters and replace worn out ones. Digging in dirt will dull and wear out the metal to the point it won't cut anymore. Than you run into all those threads where eveyrone is trying to get more preasure on there augers.

If you have a good cutting tip, you don't need any more preasure than you already have. Having to put more preasure on your auger just means your tip is dull. It's just like cutting wood with a dull knife versus a sharp one. It's just like buying a five dollar knife and it goes dull in two minutes versus a $200 knife that holds it's edge all day long.

Eddie

 

[N80]

So you primarily look to see if the cutting teeth are replaceable? How do they attach? Do the screw in, weld in, grub screw? I used to change them on the augers of the telephone pole truck I worked on but I now have no recollection of how it was done.