3 ph plow lower link adjustment?

   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #1  

Doc_Bob

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Wisconsin
Tractor
2003 NH TN70A
I just got a new plow. 3-14, Oliver. I hooked it up, but then came the usual newbie questions. As you can see from the picture, I have the left lower link almost next the tire and the right lower link far away from the right tire. I did this to keep the top link straight. Is this the correct approach? Or should I keep the lower links equidistant from the tires and let the top link be at an angle? I am guessing that keeping the lower links the same length and therefore the distance from the tires the same will keep the forces spread evenly on the lower links and tractor.

Bob

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   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Some more pics to help

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   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #3  
Let's start with the simple part first. When the plow is in the ground and you're moving, the top link should be straight front to back from the tractor. From what I can see in the photos, it looks like your wheels are a little close together. With a 3X14" plow, the INSIDE sidewall of the furrow wheel should be about 23" to 25" from the tractors centerline. Set the opposite wheel to match for good balance.

You set the tractors width to the needs of the plow. The pull the plow exerts on the tractor must be roughly centered. The plow goes where it goes. The track width then is set to match the plow.
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Farmwithjunk said:
Let's start with the simple part first. When the plow is in the ground and you're moving, the top link should be straight front to back from the tractor. From what I can see in the photos, it looks like your wheels are a little close together. With a 3X14" plow, the INSIDE sidewall of the furrow wheel should be about 23" to 25" from the tractors centerline. Set the opposite wheel to match for good balance.

Okay, let me see if I understand.

My toplink is straight front to back. The result is my lower links are cocked to one side, a lot in my opinion.

How too close are my tractor wheels? Inches? How many?

And how can I physically set the furrow wheel 23 inches from the tractors centerline? I don't know how I can have the toplink to be straight front to back and then have the furrow wheel 23 inches from the center line.? Maybe I don't know what a furrow wheel is?

Thanks for your help.
Bob
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #5  
Doc_Bob said:
Okay, let me see if I understand.

My toplink is straight front to back. The result is my lower links are cocked to one side, a lot in my opinion.

How too close are my tractor wheels? Inches? How many?

And how can I physically set the furrow wheel 23 inches from the tractors centerline? I don't know how I can have the toplink to be straight front to back and then have the furrow wheel 23 inches from the center line.? Maybe I don't know what a furrow wheel is?

Thanks for your help.
Bob


Furrow wheel=right rear wheel of the tractor.
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #6  
I agree with Farmw/junk. Inside of right rear at 23-25" from tractor centerline. Then with plow set up so that center of 2nd (middle) share is on centerline of tractor, all 3 bottoms cut their 14" and the pull is centered between the wheels. That should also center the top link; assuming it is centered to the middle bottom.
Fred
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Farmwithjunk said:
Furrow wheel=right rear wheel of the tractor.

Good! Thanks, not that you have defined it, I feel foolish for my question. Now I understand! Thanks!

My furrow wheel is 23 inches from the center line.
Bob
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #8  
Also, looking at the first picture you posted, see that crown nut that is on a bolt coming up thru the draw bar your 3pt links fasten to with the crown nut on top??? Remove that bolt and slide the drawbar toward the left side of the picture. There is an exposed bolt hole in the drawbar to the right of that crown nut about 3 inches, replace the bolt using that hole. Then see if your 3pt arms aren't better centered with the plow top link bracket.

Not sure why the previous owner had the drawbar pushed that far to the right. Probably trying to get the plow to work without changing his tractor wheel setting. Or might have been using it on a tractor that does not have adjustable rear wheels. When you get this setup right, the plow will naturally follow straight behind the tractor with the 3pt arms and top link pulling straight off the tractor.

Some plows have a fine adjustment that can be made on the drawbar but this appears to not have that luxury. A fine adjustment can get the plow set to take it's maximum amount of cut with the lead plow.

Your plow also has an adjustment on the right side (in the photo) of the drawbar to set the direction of the plow in comparison to the direction of the tractor. This also appears to be set to one extreme. It has the plow trying to run toward the furrow. When you move the drawbar to center the arms, you may also have to adjust the direction the plow is headed in relationship to the tractor. If the plow keeps trying to go toward the furrow, loosen the forward bolt and tighten the rearward bolt to turn the plow away from the furrow. Of course do the opposite if it goes the opposite direction.

When you have these adjustments made correctly, the plow will pull centered with the tractor and take it's full capacity cut with the lead plow without the sway bars on your arms pinned.

Speaking of sway bars, it doesn't appear that you have the ability to pin your sway bars in a slotted position that allows limited movement?? You need that if it's possible. The sway bars should not be what is holding the plow in a certain position in relation to the tractor. On older tractors they used chains and the chains were only set to keep the arms from swinging into the tires when carrying the plow. Once the tractor/plow is set properly and plowing, the chains hung loose and did nothing.

A properly adjusted plow is a work of art. A plow out of adjustment is a disaster. A lot of "city" farmers give up before they get to the artistic part. :)
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #9  
Fredex said:
I agree with Farmw/junk. Inside of right rear at 23-25" from tractor centerline. Then with plow set up so that center of 2nd (middle) share is on centerline of tractor, all 3 bottoms cut their 14" and the pull is centered between the wheels. That should also center the top link; assuming it is centered to the middle bottom.
Fred

More or less correct. Actually, the centerline of resistance for the plow isn't dead center of it's "cut". (Called "line of draft") With the moldboards shape and angle, it will actually load the "pull" slightly to the right side of center just a tad. Usually, on a 3X14" plow, center of pull is about 4" to the left of center of it's "cut". There's a point in between that's a happy medium. Ovrszd explains above the position of the drawbar. I think someone has shifted that drawbar to try and get "tire clearance" on a tractor where the wheels are set too narrow. The way the plow is hitched in the pictures, more than 2/3rds of the resistance that plow will give when plowing is all to the left of center (of the tractor.) From my experience, that'll make the tractor want to pull (turn) to the left and spin out with the right wheel. (Right wheel that's in the furrow) Even if you have enough tractor to outmuscle that problem, you're still "fighting" the plow. It'll pull much harder than it should.

Confused? I am too now;)

It's just starting to get daylight here. 27 balmy degrees and the wind is howling. That's all the reason I need to stay inside and near the fireplace. In a while, I'll head out to the shop and take some pictures that should help get that plow set up a little closer.

A plow that's set up "just right" will pull almost effortlessly compared to one that's all out of whack.

Back last spring, I used a 2-bottom plow behind my Massey 150 to plow 8 acres. When I first started, it was way out of adjustment. (I'd just put this plow together from parts off several other old plows) On the first couple pass's, it was laboring in low range/4th gear. I stopped and put everything "where it should be", and started plowing again. High range/ 1st gear, 1-1/2 MPH faster, less effort. All that with 3 small adjustments. And the end result (plowed ground) looked MUCH better too.
 
   / 3 ph plow lower link adjustment? #10  
Here we go! Let's start from scratch. Assume nothing is correct on the plow. Someone might have put a part on wrong or have things way out of "normal" adjustment for a particularly odd set up. Who knows? It might be helpfull if you can post a front on picture of your plow. (not hooked to the tractor)

Picture #1 shows a straight edge demonstrating the line from lower link to lower link. Notice the top link mast ISN'T really 90 degrees FROM THAT LINE. The top of the mast should follow almost directly behind the center of the tractor. Your top link should USUALLY pull straight back, cenetered. ( + or - 2" sometimes, but RELATIVELY straight)

Picture #2 shows the "draft line". (path of yellow tape measure) That's the center of "pull". Notice its relationship to plow bottom #2. That "line" is what you're really trying to pull cenetered behind the tractor. From that center point (picture #3), measure to the innermost point of the right hand lower link attaching pin. (pic # 4) That SHOULD read 12" (11" at absolute minimum) Adjust drawbar to left or right to correct that if you're off.

Picture 5 is sidewall to centerline of tractor. That should read; 12" bottoms=20", 14" bottoms = 22", 16" bottoms = 25".

That get's you "close". Small adjustments from there will get it dead on. It's possible that your draft arms will show some shift to the left. All my plows and tractors do when set up correctly. Just not so much as your original set up has. All the measurements can be plus or minus a bit. Any adjustments made with incremental bolt holes or such can be with the "closest one".

There's much more, including adjusting "width of cut" and such, but let's get the basic set up right first.
 

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