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  1. #1
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    509
    Location
    South Carolina
    Tractor
    JD 5105

    Default Dealing with RUST

    hi folks. I have an old bulldozer that has been good to me, and now I feel like I need to clean her up and make her look nice. Got some minor cosmetic rust spots, not deep at all, but i'd like to address it now.

    I have heard about a rust converter, one brand called POR. I hear you need to wire brush it down a little, then apply the converter prior to painting. Does it really stop rust?

  2. #2
    Elite Member RalphVa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    3,797
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    Tractor
    JD 1025, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    Rustoleum has something called Rust Reformer, and NAPA has a product called (think it's) Rust Extender. These both fully inert rust (iron oxide) to black iron sulfide. They absolutely stop rust on any rusted or bare metal areas; where there's paint now, you may get some rust in those areas.

    Just wire brush to get the loose stuff off and then brush or squirt it on. I used an old pump squirt container to apply some to a shovel. It has an absolutely beautiful black patina now.

    I applied some to my old Gravely snow plow where the paint had worn down to bare metal. Where it didn't turn black, it STAYED bright, bare metal.

    Ralph
    The natural gardener
    God's original intent

  3. #3
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    6,548

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewj
    hi folks. I have an old bulldozer that has been good to me, and now I feel like I need to clean her up and make her look nice. Got some minor cosmetic rust spots, not deep at all, but i'd like to address it now.

    I have heard about a rust converter, one brand called POR. I hear you need to wire brush it down a little, then apply the converter prior to painting. Does it really stop rust?

    First off, POR is a paint product. It stands for Paint Over Rust. It is a hard enamel that is supposed to stop further rusting. (cough cough Bull Snit ! Cough) In my experience, if you leave surface rust, it will flake off later.

    There are many products that do work. I use one called "Must for Rust". It is phosphoric acid based. You still need to wire brush down to bare metal, then spray, let dry and paint as normal. There are many that are in the same category. The others that turn the surface black (and your fingers too) are an organic based product that forms some organo-metallic barrier. They work, but in my opinion they don't hold paint very well.

    To make it look good, you still should strip to bare metal, use a rust converter, quality primer and good paint.

    jb

  4. #4
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    937
    Location
    15 mi. N. of Winchester VA
    Tractor
    CK30HST

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    Been fixing major rust in old cars for decades, I've tried it all, the converters, POR...

    Best thing I've found is the Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood:

    Eastwood Company: Auto Tools, Body Repair, Classic Car Restoration, House of Kolor Paint, Powder Coating

    Used to be called Corollus. Used on oil rigs in the ocean supposedly. $125/gallon or thereabouts

    For large areas of light rust you might be pleasantly surprised by the rust primers by Rustoleum, closer to $25/gallon.

    Mike

  5. #5
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    647
    Location
    TX
    Tractor
    NH TC 40 A, AC 5020

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    The best for me, which takes into consideration both performance and cost, it is rutoleums Rust Reformer that I like. It turns lightly rusted metal into a hard finish. If it isn't rusted then there is no reaction. Then paint over it with a good quality enamel paint. It is about 20.00 a quart or 60.00/gal if I remember right.
    Where Bob Wills is still the king.
    102 acres, and nothing but work! Wouldn't change it for anything.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    40
    Location
    North East PA
    Tractor
    John Deere x585

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    I would clean it down to metal and spray with "zinc primer" ("cold galvanizing"), then paint on top.

    http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/o..._primer_70.pdf

  7. #7
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    108
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Tractor
    New Holland TC24DA

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    This stuff works great on heavy and light rust.

    Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail

  8. #8
    Elite Member DieselPower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,761
    Location
    Fairfield, PA
    Tractor
    JD 3020, JD 4230, JD 7410, JD 2440, MF 750, NH LS170

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    I'm with mrutkaus, the Eastwood stuff works great. Better yet since your working on a piece of heavy that is probably outside you could invest in one of those little sand blast guns. Look kind of like a spray paint gun but it's actually a sand blast gun. Makes for short work of small rust spot's. I have had one for years and found it works great for blasting small rust spots.

  9. #9
    Gold Member kubotabilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    343
    Location
    Central PA
    Tractor
    3430 HSTC, BX 2200

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    Extend rust converter by Loctite has worked really well for me.

    Bill
    If there are no dogs in heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went.

  10. #10
    Elite Member RalphVa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    3,797
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    Tractor
    JD 1025, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010

    Default Re: Dealing with RUST

    For smaller stuff, or bigger stuff if you have a big tank, you can use electrolysis. Do a Google search, and you'll find complete instructions. I used this method to remove the rust to be able to repaint my old Gravely rotary plow. Did everything but the cast iron case.

    Attached is a pic of the repainted unit. The front seal leaked, and I never took the time to replace it; so it had to be stored on a slight tilt as shown in the pic. Sold it that way.

    The second picture shows the snow plow that I retreated with Rust Reformer before priming and painting it. It's the one to the right of the snow blower. It's standing on one end. Some of the paint wore off the face. It then reapplied some Rust Reformer. The face never dulled nor showed any rust. These are all sold, too. Only Gravely thing I have left is the sulky.

    Ralph
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    The natural gardener
    God's original intent

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