Grapple Grapple Techniques?

   / Grapple Techniques? #1  

n8wrl

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Messages
301
Location
Rural SC
Tractor
Kubota L5030 HST
Hi all!

Every new implement/attachment only reaffirms how much I have to learn. I recently got a 4' Millonzi grapple and it works pretty good. I'm trying to clear out behind a fence and I thought I could use it to pull out saplings and brush. I had moderate success with 'plowing' the tines under the brush and lifting, roots and all, but I sure got a lot of dirt with it too. Are there techniques to do this better?

I would also like to take a stab at digging out small stumps with this too - possible?

Thanks!

-Brian
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #2  
I was wondering about pulling saplings myself. I guess, where we live the pine trees grow like fescue. I'm in the process of desiging a grapple and I was looking at that problem. Best I can come up with is an attachment. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the 2 center most tines and thru bolting a 2x2 tube by welding threaded end caps on the tube. Then mount a bolt on pad on the grapple tooth that will close on the tube like jaws and pinch the saplings. You may not have a center tooth on the grapple but just put the tube in the tines that are under a grapple tooth.
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #3  
n8,

I have Andy Tatro's grapple on my 5030 bucket. I use the cutting edge of the bucket angled down and drive forward, "slicing" through the root structure and then giving a little curl to break it free. I then re-curl to the original "slicing" angle and back out, leaving the soil in place. Once I have done this to a section of growth, I go back and grab it with the grapple. I have cleared 8 acres of sagebrush using this method.
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #4  
I would ask IslandTractor. He is the "grapple man". Hopefully he will see this thread and jump on board. You may want to send him a PM. He will likely be more than happy to give you plenty of pointers on that grapple.
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #5  
I have certainly used my grapple (also the 4ft Millonzi) to remove saplings and small stumps with my CK20. The size you can manage are likely related more to FEL lift and curl capacity than the grapple itself. After a year of use, here are my techniques and observations:

1) Saplings. I have found it best to first push them over and thereby exposing the roots. I then put one of the two middle bottom grapple teeth just under the exposed root and drive forward. That usually just pops them out after which I simply close the upper jaw and drive to the brush pile. I have used this technique even with trees up to 4 inches or so so long as I can push it partly over and the soil is loose enough to permit me to get at least partially under the root complex. I have been known to consider it a challenge to take on trees that I really should have just cut down and dug out with the BH and so it sometimes takes pushing at the tree from different angles to loosen it up and I often find my grapple "climbing" the tree with front wheels a couple of feet off the ground in an effort to push the tree over. Likewise, when the root system is a bit tough to get out with a single pass, I will use the grapple to undermine and rip up the roots to the side of the tree before coming back to the main root ball. I also will use tractor momentum by backing up a few feet and ramming the grapple into the exposed roots. Curling sometimes works too especially if there is a long tap root that can be more easily lifted out than broken.

2) Stumps: The same basic technique works for stumps except you don't have the advantage of leverage on the trunk to expose the roots so you need to dig with the grapple a bit more. I find with stumps up to 4-5 inches (soft wood, soft soil) I can use the lower grapple jaw to cut into the ground about 6-8 inches all around the stump before trying to push on the stump to tip it over. Pushing usually reveals where the main anchoring roots are and I then attack them specifically with the lower grapple. Another technique which works well if the stump is fairly low to the ground is to lower the open grapple over the stump and then close the grapple so the upper jaw teeth cut through roots.

In general there is an overlap in size of trees that can be taken down with the grapple vs chainsaw and BH. Bigger ones clearly need the cut and dig approach but depending on the lift/curl capacity of your FEL and the weight of your tractor, you can knock down and scoop out some pretty big trees/stumps. I have learned not to cut trees until I have attempted to push them over and get them out with the grapple as the overall efficiency is much higher if you don't need to use the chainsaw/BH. I then just leave the ones that I cannot get out after 5 or 10 minutes and come back another day with the BH for those.

I'll post some photos later.
 
   / Grapple Techniques?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
This is excellent advice - thank you. Looking forward to pix!

-Brian
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #7  
Grapple photos: These show the type of tree and stump size that can be removed with the grapple alone. I included a photo of the stumps left behind for removal with backhoe to give an idea of the size limits for a CK20. I imagine a bigger tractor could certain get some of these out with the grapple alone.
 

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   / Grapple Techniques? #8  
Grapples are useful in other tasks too. Check out my deer hunting technique. It was during deer season. I won't comment on my success rate.:eek:
 

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   / Grapple Techniques?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Those are excellent pix, Island - very helpful! One question - Did you find the hose supplied by Millonzi for the front-most cylinder connection to be too short? I can't curl my LA853 all the way forward/down with the stock hose.

-Brian
 
   / Grapple Techniques? #10  
Those are excellent pix, Island

And beautiful property too! :)

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.
 
 
 
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