3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,825
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
I've never owned a floating rear blade boxblade so I don't know if there's a cost factor to it? Mine is a 7' fixed blade and still cuts pretty good even with the front tilted up. It does weigh about 1000lbs though......it's a modified Howse. Then tilting it backwards gives a really smooth finish. I'm not knocking a floating blade but question the perceived advantage listed? Weight and solid construction is definitely an advantage.
One thing I've noticed is that I find my self using it to mainly scrape maybe an inch or 2 at a time and drag the filled box to a dump site or spread it out evenly. I've never really had to have it dig straight down say a foot deep from the get go. The box would fill up in the first 3 feet or so if your tractor would pull it? So how aggressively do you want it to cut? I'd use my fel bucket for that kind of digging. So mostly I'm leveling and there's no need to super aggressively take big cuts, but when I need to do that, I lower the hydraulic scarifiers for digging and go. I cut/rip over short distances like humps or bumps then drag. I also pop out big boulders and rocks that way.
Just my 2¢
One thing I've noticed is that I find my self using it to mainly scrape maybe an inch or 2 at a time and drag the filled box to a dump site or spread it out evenly. I've never really had to have it dig straight down say a foot deep from the get go. The box would fill up in the first 3 feet or so if your tractor would pull it? So how aggressively do you want it to cut? I'd use my fel bucket for that kind of digging. So mostly I'm leveling and there's no need to super aggressively take big cuts, but when I need to do that, I lower the hydraulic scarifiers for digging and go. I cut/rip over short distances like humps or bumps then drag. I also pop out big boulders and rocks that way.
Just my 2¢
