gordon21
Veteran Member
Here are some pix of a cheap and simple modification to make the Jinma chipper work with the JD i-match so you don't have to try to wrestle with the 800# chipper. No strength required except to spin the adjuster on the top link.
I bought a red drilled bar from TSC and cut it into two smaller pieces. I drilled two holes on the cut ends. If you look closely, there is a bushing on the chipper between the two red bars to keep them pushed apart. On the CAT 1 lower pins, I added a cat 1>2 bushing and then put a cat 2>3 bushing over it. The inner bushing is shorter than the outer one. The outer one is tied to the lower pin with a standard $0.25 lynch pin. This accomplishes the same thing as the expensive JD bushing set for only a few dollars.
You back up to the chipper with the i-match tilted towards the tractor a couple inches off from vertical. Raise the i-match and lock onto the lower pins. Lock the i-match levers. With the chipper firmly hooked to the i-match, you can now adjust the top link to move it back to where the pin will go through the red bar, then the i-match frame, the top link, the other side of the i-match frame and then the second red bar. No wrestling required.
This does move the chipper back a couple inches and I replaced the PTO shaft with a much longer one. Even before this modification, there was very little overlap on the two halves of the factory shaft. The new shaft gives me about 10" of overlap. The new shaft is more quiet because there is very little play in it versus the factory shaft.
I bought a red drilled bar from TSC and cut it into two smaller pieces. I drilled two holes on the cut ends. If you look closely, there is a bushing on the chipper between the two red bars to keep them pushed apart. On the CAT 1 lower pins, I added a cat 1>2 bushing and then put a cat 2>3 bushing over it. The inner bushing is shorter than the outer one. The outer one is tied to the lower pin with a standard $0.25 lynch pin. This accomplishes the same thing as the expensive JD bushing set for only a few dollars.
You back up to the chipper with the i-match tilted towards the tractor a couple inches off from vertical. Raise the i-match and lock onto the lower pins. Lock the i-match levers. With the chipper firmly hooked to the i-match, you can now adjust the top link to move it back to where the pin will go through the red bar, then the i-match frame, the top link, the other side of the i-match frame and then the second red bar. No wrestling required.
This does move the chipper back a couple inches and I replaced the PTO shaft with a much longer one. Even before this modification, there was very little overlap on the two halves of the factory shaft. The new shaft gives me about 10" of overlap. The new shaft is more quiet because there is very little play in it versus the factory shaft.
