Box Scraper Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper

   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #1  

Z-Michigan

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Kioti DK5010HS
I see in the Woods landscaping implement catalog that, along with the regular box blades, they have a "rollover" type with a handle sticking out and some not very clear words about how you can roll from a cutting edge to scarifier teeth. Can anyone explain for me exactly what these do, why they are better than standard box blades (if they are) and maybe take a few photos of one showing how it differs from a regular box blade?

Thanks!
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #2  
well its farily simple... the box is designed to rotate to engage diffrent parts of the box blade....

woods_boxblade.jpg


a normal box blade you have to fight to pull the rippers up one by one (or drop them down) with a roll over you simply pull the lever spin it and boom your rippers are flipped down and ready to go
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #3  
Would a box blade work well for fine-smoothing woods trails or would something else work better? I have gone as far as I can with backblading with my FEL, both powered and in float mode. How can I make a smooth trail with my 33DA?
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper
  • Thread Starter
#4  
schmism said:
well its farily simple... the box is designed to rotate to engage diffrent parts of the box blade....

a normal box blade you have to fight to pull the rippers up one by one (or drop them down) with a roll over you simply pull the lever spin it and boom your rippers are flipped down and ready to go

That sounds VERY handy. Are there any significant drawbacks? It looks like you can't rip and blade at the same time and would have to do two passes if you need both functions. On the other hand that also means you can use rippers alone without moving material, right? This might be just the versatile tool I need around my horse farm.

Also - I assume you have to get off the seat to pull the handle and rotate the blade?
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #5  
Z-Michigan said:
Also - I assume you have to get off the seat to pull the handle and rotate the blade?

i dont think so the yellow bar that sticks out the top of the pic is handle that i think is designed to be reached by the operator sitting in the seat.

my guess is (ive never seen one or operated one) is that you could reach back pull the lever then back up/forward to roll the box and lock it into the new postion.

most regular BB you can get the rippers to engage without the rear blade if you drop them very low and tilt the box... but there is a limit (not like 6-8") you could do with just rippers by themselves.
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #6  
topshop said:
Would a box blade work well for fine-smoothing woods trails or would something else work better? I have gone as far as I can with backblading with my FEL, both powered and in float mode. How can I make a smooth trail with my 33DA?

either a box blade or rear blade will work for this.... a box blade is more suited to heavy duty cutting and material moveing but suffers from limited movements. a rear blade has the ablity to tilt and skew to easly crown and move material across the moldboard.

both have there use.

IMO (although i dont own a BB yet) a BB is better suited for more heavy materal work with the rear blade being more of a finish and maintance tool.
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #7  
schmism said:
well its farily simple... the box is designed to rotate to engage diffrent parts of the box blade....

woods_boxblade.jpg


a normal box blade you have to fight to pull the rippers up one by one (or drop them down) with a roll over you simply pull the lever spin it and boom your rippers are flipped down and ready to go


Nice picture!

I looked at the roll overs and thought about it but got a Gannon Landscaper with movable scarifier bar. For BB's in general, you need weight to make them work. More is better. They work the best right before you can no longer pull them (goofy but true). The roll overs are all less weight than a HD box.

Draw backs:

Less weight
can't scarify and pull dirt at the same time
not as sturdy
only a single blade - won't smooth nearly as well


I got the H120. Pull a lever and you can either drop or raise the scarifier bar. The scar bar is also higher up than most fixed bar boxes. That lets the dirt move easier. The tail blade swings, but can be bolted down. Best of both worlds. Swinging for more dig, fixed for smoother finish. But all needs are unique. Look around and see what fits your needs.

Gannon Industrial Scrapers by Woods Equipment Company - Construction Equipment
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #8  
Z-Michigan said:
Also - I assume you have to get off the seat to pull the handle and rotate the blade?

On my old John deere 950 I could just reach back and pull the handle. On my new New Holland TC40DA I tie a rope to it and pull the rope from the operators seat.

Aside from not being able to scarify and pull dirt at the same time, the rotating style is REALLY helpful due to its ability to change functions mid-stream without getting off the seat and fooling with individual teeth.

As for being lighter, I don't know what model mine is, but it is SO heavy I use it as ballast when I need a heavy weight in the back! :cool:

KEG
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #9  
john_bud said:
Nice picture!

I looked at the roll overs and thought about it but got a Gannon Landscaper with movable scarifier bar. For BB's in general, you need weight to make them work. More is better. They work the best right before you can no longer pull them (goofy but true). The roll overs are all less weight than a HD box.

Draw backs:

Less weight
can't scarify and pull dirt at the same time
not as sturdy
only a single blade - won't smooth nearly as well


I got the H120. Pull a lever and you can either drop or raise the scarifier bar. The scar bar is also higher up than most fixed bar boxes. That lets the dirt move easier. The tail blade swings, but can be bolted down. Best of both worlds. Swinging for more dig, fixed for smoother finish. But all needs are unique. Look around and see what fits your needs.

Gannon Industrial Scrapers by Woods Equipment Company - Construction Equipment

Well, I would like to agree with you, and partially do, but would like to clear up some things.

First off, yes they are not as heavy as a heavy duty construction type box blade, but they are heavier than a medium duty BB. They used to be the heavy duty BB. I have an 81" Gannon rollover, (not a Woods) cat 2 hitch and this thing weighs in around 1000 lbs.

2nd, you are correct, you can't scarify and blade dirt at the same time, but you can put those rippers in the ground 8" and not pull any dirt while scarifying.

3rd, not as sturdy. I can't say regarding the Woods brand, but regarding Gannon's, I have an 81", 66" and 36", all rollover scrapers and all built very tough. No dents, no bent side plates, other than normal wear, all 3 could be sand blasted & painted and you would think that they were new. They have held up very good with the oldest being almost 40 years old.

4th, regarding not smoothing as well because of only 1 blade, well I roll mine over into the back filling position and drag that forward. I cannot imagine getting a better, smoother finish.

Oh, yes the bar to change the position of the implement from dragging, to ripping, to back filling and smoothing can be reached with the implement raised. These were (and still are) the top of the line implements before hydraulics were used to raise & lower ripper bars

These are my thoughts and experiences, yours may vary.;)
 
   / Can someone explain a "rollover" box blade / scraper #10  
Z-Michigan said:
I see in the Woods landscaping implement catalog that, along with the regular box blades, they have a "rollover" type with a handle sticking out and some not very clear words about how you can roll from a cutting edge to scarifier teeth. Can anyone explain for me exactly what these do, why they are better than standard box blades (if they are) and maybe take a few photos of one showing how it differs from a regular box blade?

Thanks!

Sorry because I'm not really answering your question but...I have a small CUT (NH TC26) selected because of its narrow width ... I digress: I have a BushHog 60" bb (standard, not rotating) and a 400m gravel drive at my cottage. That's about 1/5th mile for you metric-ly challenged. Anyway, I had spectacular success distributing 7 dumptruck loads of 5/8" with fines along my lane with the std bb. It took about 4 passes each direction with the blade to hit perfection. The rotating blade may be the answer for you, still, but I wanted to tell you that it depends on the app'n. BTW my wife even likes the driveway now and that is QUITE the achievement! All with a normal bb!
 
 
 
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