Toothbar installation

[Keoke]

A metal cutting hole saw witha a pilot bit works real good here folks. This set up usually will give cleaner hole than a 3/4 bit.
By the way, keep the cut-out plug just in case you want to plug the hole back up in the future.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I hope you enjoy the toothbar ... just be careful and safe as you work around it. The teeth can really hurt trouser legs and the meat inside!

The installation tips shared here are great.
They are a great example of how this group really tries to help other folks.

If you don't mind, I'll summarize your install tips and post them as a shoppers and service tips webpage.

And -> Ask Vance, Don and Ken at WR LONG to include them as a part of their packing slip as well.
->
Install tips and tools needed to help with installation.

Thanks so much,
Steve

 

[Zone_V]

Wal, this is a little repetitive after the others, but I had it typed yesterday on a different computer which wouldn't let me send it, so here it is just a little late.....

I just did this job recently and it went routinely. I was able to use a 1/2" chuck drill, but if you can find the bits for 3/8, that should work OK. The key is to work up in increments, maybe drilling a 1/4" hole first, then 3/8, 1/2, etc. on up to the 3/4. I also used cutting oil, which I think made the whole operation go smoother. Just position the bucket at a comfortable working level, punch a starting dimple for accuracy, and start in. I think I drilled the first hole from the inside, and the remaining ones from the outside. And _be careful_, since the larger bits in particular will have a tendency to grab and have the drill twist in your
hand. We don't want any sprained or broken wrists. Have fun
Zone V

 

[gmason]

Well last year I got on of the toothbars from Steve and I too had to enlarge the hole in the bucket. But I went the other route. I got out my trusty Dremil with a couple of large (1/2")stone grinding wheels. I've got the NH HD bucket and bot is that metal hard stuff, almost no sparks. It took a while and as I got close I was able to get the holes very round and the bolts fig very snug.
I recall I went through 2 or three stones at $.99 each. Don't get those cheap pink or white ones from Ace, they "melted" and I returned them.
More than one way to crack that nut!!!
gary

 

[Timd]

The way Carver (and most other tractor dealers) installs
toothbars is to flame cut the holes in the FEL bucket with
a cutting torch. If you happen to have a torch and know
how to use it this is much faster and cheaper than buying
3/4 inch drill bits.

This way you can save some of the money you'll need for
those 1 1/8 and 1 1/16 inch wrenches/sockets you didn't
realize you were going to need until you bought a toothbar!

Timd

 

[paccorti]

Just curious, are most people opting for 1" shanks or the heavier duty 1.5" shanks. I went heavier myself, Carver tells me 133# for my toothbar. At least I won't break it.

Peter

 

[frank_f15]

to state agains what the others have said. drill a pilot hole first and then use the larger drill bit. use plenty of cutting oil and HOLD FIRMLY onto the drill.not sure where u are going to find a 3/4 bit with a 3/8 shank. check out birds post, not familar with that tool, but BIRD IS USUALLY CORRECT

 

[Wal]

OK guys, here is what I am going to try. First of all, I COULD NOT find a 3/4" bit shanked down to 3/8" locally. I saw one on the internet somewhere at a specialty drill site, but I"m not going that route. After reading a couple other people mentioning hole saws in this thread, I went to Sears and then Home Depot to check them out. At Home Depot I found a 3/4" hole saw called the "Aggressor" by BLU-MOL. It attaches to a 3/8" hole saw mandrel with intergrated 1/4" drill bit in the center. The description on the package for this 3/4" "Aggressor" hole saw reads: <font color=red>"The Aggressor Bi-Metal Hole Saws employ an aggressive 4/6 variable pitch tooth style for the fastest cutting performance. Made of the most wear resistant M3 tool steel, these hole saws will easily cut through metal, nail embedded wood and stainless steel.</font color=red> We will see about that tomorrow (Sunday). I was going to try it today, but I found out yesterday I am needed as a pall bearer at a funeral today for an old family friend /w3tcompact/icons/sad.gif Anyway, I will post the results of the "Aggressor" trial when they are in /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[RhallVA]

Did your toothabr come with the hardware to attach it to the bucket or did you need to pcik those up yourself?

Thanks!

 

[Wal]

Roy,

The toothbar came with all the hardware needed, which consists of bolts, nuts, and washers to attach it to each side of the bucket. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif