PUG F570

   / PUG F570 #1  

PA PUG

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Jun 4, 2010
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I bought this PUG back in January and then found out they are no longer made and parts are very hard to come by.

I bought the parts manual from Bob Keith after finding him by calling about 40 former dealers.

I have questions regarding the electrical system.

It has an 18hp Briggs Vanguard engine with electric start. It has a netural safety switch.

It will not crank so I disconnect the battery and it reads 12.3 volts on the charger and the same on the voltmeter. I had a new battery installed when I bought the PUG a few months ago.

I think it should be the solenoid that mounts to the frame rail. Can I just go to a local lawn mower shop and can they just match it up?

Also, it has a manual dump on the bed. I was wondering if anyone had one with a factory power dump so I could get pictures of how it is installed?

Thanks,
Michael
 
   / PUG F570 #2  
I would think a Brigs vangard is going to be fairly common..Can you jump the solonoid?..Do some testing before you throw a bunch of money at it...Shouldn't be too complicated.
 
   / PUG F570 #3  
Hello I have 6 of them but all of the ones I have 20 hp. kohler eng (gas) and one I am changeing to (diesel). Three of them had electrical probs. 1 had bad starter, 1bad solonoid, 1bad key sw. the other run great all of them have hyd. dumps, one has hyd winch. All of the ones that I have are badlands. Also I have some extra parts if some thing breaks but the pug badlands are well built. :thumbsup:
 
   / PUG F570 #4  
bertman1,

We have the F570 6X4 and our transmission just went out. After pulling it apart, we discovered that the rear drive shaft (left side) is broken.

I don't suppose that you have an extra drive shaft around that you would be willing to sell.

Thank you,

NightBandit
 
   / PUG F570 #5  
That axle problem must be common - I just bought an F570 a few days ago and I think it's got a busted axle!!

I don't know if the transmissions and axles are any good in these but the rest of the vehicle is bombproof. I've got a Pub Badlands (the articulated model) that is indestructable and the chassis on this F570 is built the same. It's got a B&S 18hp vtwin - good motor. Maybe not the equal of the Kohler, but its a good solid engine with easy parts availability. The drive axle is an Eaton - again, parts should be easy to find. The rest of the vehicle is so simple that a MIG welder will fix just about anything you can't find at a NAPA store.

I'm not shy about buying Pugs - out of business or not, they are 100% American made with American parts. My Badlands has Spicer axles, a Ford Escort 4 speed transaxle, and a Kohler motor. The rest of the vehicle is just steel and fiberglass. You can't say the same about Kawasaki's or any other foreign-made UTV.

Finally, the dump box capacity of my Badlands is - no joke - well over one ton. The F570's box is nearly as tough. I could put a Mule in the dump box, chain the Badlands off to another Mule and pull it backwards around the world. The F570 is not quite as tough but it's still the equal or better than any Gator I've ever seen.

Yeah...I like Pugs.
 
   / PUG F570 #6  
By the way, the starting issue is probably the neutral lock-out switch. It's just behind the motor and prone to corrosion and crud boggling up the little switch. It is an off-the-shelf part. Google nuetral safety switches and you'll find something that'll work.

Lift the box and wiggle the gear selector and you'll see where it links up to the NSS. Bonk it with a screwdriver handle or something lightweight and see if it'll free up. Maybe squirt some magic juice on it to clean it off. Worst case, bypass it untill you find another switch...just don't start it in gear, of course.
 
   / PUG F570 #7  
Did some research and a couple things I'd posted are incorrect. First, the transaxle is made by Dana Spicer and is a Model 012 (or just Model 12). They are very common and still in production and parts are easy to get.
Same for brakes.

The engine, a Briggs 18hp v-twin, is as common as house flies - nothing about it is hard to find or repair. The rest of the PUG is pretty simple and straightforward. The only problem we have had was NOT a broken axle but a seized bearing on the axle. The previous owner got it wet...a lot...and several of the bearings in the rear end assembly were shot. We replaced them all. All bearings are standard, off-the-shelf stuff - $10 each all day long - and easy to replace.

As near as we can tell the only potential problem with parts is the rear axles. They are $100 each and there are four and have the drive sprockets welded onto them. The axles will never wear out - they ride on bearings - but the sprockets could wear out after a couple thousand hours. Even then, it might be a relatively simple thing to cut the sprocket off and weld on a new one. So far, that is the only odd item on this machine. Everything else is pretty much "hardware store" stuff. Even control arm bushings are a commong NAPA item. Very simple, very rugged, made in USA machine. If you own a welder and a hammer, you can fix about anything on it.
 
   / PUG F570 #8  
I have a Pug f570 and need the full model # of the transaxle. The only thing wrong with it is the differential assembly. Bob's out 'til the 24th and I'm kinda impatient.
 
   / PUG F570 #9  
I am having a **** of a time with the shift assembly and the spring slide design. If I adjust it so I can get it to fully engage to go Fwd...it won't go into reverse. If I adjust it so the trans will go into reverse...it won't shift into Fwd. How in the heck do you adjust these things? Should be so simple...

Am considering buying a 4' threaded rod to fit the transaxle linkage and drilling a hole in the seat base just above and to the right of the storage compartment and simply pushing all the way back for Fwd - or pull it for Reverse.
 
   / PUG F570
  • Thread Starter
#10  
cfg7613 said:
I am having a **** of a time with the shift assembly and the spring slide design. If I adjust it so I can get it to fully engage to go Fwd...it won't go into reverse. If I adjust it so the trans will go into reverse...it won't shift into Fwd. How in the heck do you adjust these things? Should be so simple...

Am considering buying a 4' threaded rod to fit the transaxle linkage and drilling a hole in the seat base just above and to the right of the storage compartment and simply pushing all the way back for Fwd - or pull it for Reverse.


I have a similar problem. I bought a used Pug F570 back two years ago. It only had 310 hours.

I have a hard time getting it into fwd, reverse is easy. I have to lift the seat and push it back. I like your idea.

I also have a hard time starting with the neutral safety switch. The battery goes down a lot. I think I need a new voltage gauge.

I have called about 30 thirty dealers and no one has parts. Bob Keith is your best source. He went to the Fertel auction last year and bought a lot of parts on top of what he previously had in stock. I bought the last dump kit from him and I have not installed yet.

I had a bad axle and my tractor dealer welded a washer on the end because they are no longer available from any one.

They are well built but they need a lot adjustment from my experience.

I would like to see a picture of your fix when you install it.

Michael
 
 
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