bobcat 610 roto swivel rebuild

[woodie50]

I have a bobcat 610 that I've had
for 5 years or so and I love it. I recently put on new tires and rebuilt the front
bucket cylinders and they work great. About a month ago I broke the belt,
bought a new one and just got around to tackling the job. I took off the roto
swivel and got the belt on with no major problems but after I put it back on
and fired it up it leaks out the roto swivel fitting when I push the speed control
lever. When I pulled the swivel out I seen the small spring inside and put it
back but I'm thinking there was a seal of some sort that may have fallen out.
Anyone have any knowledge of what I did wrong? I'm new to this site so please
excuse any of my dumbness. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[CharlieNH]

I'm in the middle of a roto-swivel rebuild and I wonder if I could ask you a couple of questions. I put mine all back together today with new seals but it still leaks out the sheave and gets all over the belt.
There's an oil seal in the copper gland. Which way does it face? Mine has the open part facing outward.
How did you get the piston assembly and copper gland out of the stationary sheave, and how did you get them back in? I had a hard time getting them out and I wonder if I damaged the new big O'rings while forcing them back in. I hammered them in using a short length of plastic pipe against the copper piece.
Do you think the little seal on the end of the actual roto-swivel unit could cause an external leak? I didn't think so, so I didn't take that last part apart. It also looked like that last little retaining ring is hard to get at.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It would be a big help to me as I try this all over again.

 

[WestshoreConstruction]

Oil seals always face the outside or the open side of the seal goes to the pressure side, thats how they seal the pressure behind the seal helps to put pressure on the shaft etc helping the seal do its job. Orings seal great but are very easily damaged, you wouldn't think there was a problem with them but it doesn't take much. A oring if sized right shouldn't be a major undertaking to install, try some hyd or engine oil on them too.

 

[jamtuc]

Hey guys I just bought a 610 and ordered the parts for a tilt Cyl rebuild and the sheave rebuild. Any tips would be great. I did talk to the mech at the closest Bobcat dealer. Verry helpful fellow. He did tell me that the last clip on the sheave sometimes gets mushroomed and needs to be filed down before the interior piston is taken out and for sure before reinstallation. I am waiting on my parts to come in. Again any tips would be great.

Thanks

 

[CharlieNH]

This should go smoothly with a lot of new parts, but post if you have a problem. I cut a plastic pipe at one end to use to stretch the big O rings and then slide them onto the cylinder. I also tapped the innards back into the fixed sheave using a plastic pipe of the right size as a pusher. Had to whack it a bit, even after greasing up all the Orings very well, which is important to avoid damage.

 

[jamtuc]

I have the rebuild kit just cant get the pulley compressed to get the first snap ring off. I have been in contact with the closest bobcat dealer. Jim the mechanic there is very helpful. I have looked everywhere for information on the drive sheave but cant find anything.

 

[CharlieNH]

If you're talking about #2 on the attached diagram, the first timeI didthis I really had to dig it out beause I didn't have the sheave compressed all the way. You have to separate the front sheave so there is slack in the belt, and then have someone hold the belt away from the center on the rear sheave so you can get it together. This will give you clearance to deal with the snap ring.

 

[jamtuc]

That is exactly the problem I am having. So let me get this straight. I have to manually pull the front pulley apart then manually compress the aft pulley to get to the first snap ring. Does this sound correct?

 

[CharlieNH]

Yes, exactly. I cut a piece of wood to wedge into the front pulley on top of the belt, and I braced it in place by wedging it under a cross brace just above. Then you have to find the easiest way to get that front pulley apart to create slack. If the machine is running, you just put it in the high speed mode with that little lever on the left pushed forward, shut it off, and get the wood in before anything leaks down. Then you'll be all set.

 

[jamtuc]

Westshore,

You wouldnt let a fella borrow the Fecon for a few days would you?