T190 not able to grease lower lift arm pivot.

[Ddorr]

I have a 2006 T190 and I am not able to get grease to go into the lower lift arm pivot fittings. I have taken the zerks out and the 45 degree adapters out and cleaned them. It seams that the blockage is in the joint itself. Any ideas how to dissolve the old grease or does cylinder have to be removed?

 

[SSdoxie]

Best way is to remove the cylinder and clean it. If it has been squeaking for awhile the pin and bushing could be starting to gall and would be good time to replace them before the cylinder itself gets damaged.

 

[Ddorr]

What is involved in removing the lower pin and bushing? Does the lift cylinder have to come out or can just the lower pin be removed. It looks like it would be driven out towards the inside of the engine compartment. The service manual just has the procedure for removal of the entire cylinder.

 

[catdozer]

Is it right or left side? I had to replace my left side on my t190, I couldn't get grease into it, I ended up drilling the end of the pin and tapped it for a 3/4 bolt and just pull it out, dirt was caked in it so I cleaned it out didn't need a new bushing, so I had a machine shop drill a hole to the center of the pin and 3 grease holes, so now I just grease it from the outside and not through the small hole, I had the grease zerk set into the pin so it didn't catch or break it off. You didnt have to pull the cylinder cause i felt in to so if it had any scoring on the inside. If you have any other Q's just ask

 

[Ddorr]

It is the pin on the right side. It looks as though there is enough room on the inside of the engine compartment for the pin to come out. Will the lift cylinder stay in place on its own or does it have to be supported?

 

[catdozer]

It is the pin on the right side. It looks as though there is enough room on the inside of the engine compartment for the pin to come out. Will the lift cylinder stay in place on its own or does it have to be supported?

That's why I pulled it instead of pounding cause I didnt want to pound the edges over, I cut a piece of 2x4 to fit in between the cylinder and frame, now getting the pin back in is quite tricky, first lift your boom enough to put a floorjack under it so you can find that little bit of slop(to remove the pin) also take a sharpie and mark where the shaft exits the bore so when you put the pin back in you can see if the cylinder settled a little or not, but with the time to remove it with drilling and tapping about 2 hours, replacing was about 15min as my cylinder did not settle any. But I would have it drilled out so you can grease it from another place, and when you take your pin out pump grease through the zerk to remove the dirt

 

[SSdoxie]

Correct procedure: Raise the lift arm, install the Orange Lift Arm support that comes with the machine on the cylinder you are not removing. let the lift arm down on the support stop. With engine shut off, put lift arm control inot float position. then remove the pin retaining bolt and use a drift punch to drive the pin in until cylinder is loose, take take out the rod end pin and cylinder comes out. When reinstalling, drive the lower pin in from the outside of machine.
After 1 cylinder is done, move the support stop to the other side and repeat to do that cylinder if both pins, bushings need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

[Ddorr]

Thanks for the information. If it matters this machine has SJC would the procedure be the same?

 

[catdozer]

Mines got the SJC and have to have machine running in order to put in float, but when you remove the pin since the machines float been activated your cylinder is gonna slide out of it's position, I just like to keep everything close to the ground and when you use a jack to raise your bucket your taking the pressure off the pins and allowing the cylinder pressure to maintain it's position, I just take my own route of doing things my way.

 

[angustrees]

I've had T190s and T180. I solved the greasing problem by removing that "unseen zerk" and replacing with a st el, an 18" flexible grease extension, a coupler and then a zerk and attached couple to solid location accessible through the engine compartment door-- making sure the arrangement did not bind at any point. Then I knew when the pins were getting grease and I wasted a lot less grease and grief!